bdouvill Posted December 28, 2016 Author Share Posted December 28, 2016 I had a spare dead battery from my friend 675 Street Triple. Charged it for almost 24h before it was fully charged. Mounted it in the VFR and (drum sound) tadahhhhh starter rotated the engine!!!! I have spark on the 4 cylinders. I put the new sparks plugs that I have. For the previous question, I asked because I did not find this part on Honda exploded views (but I tried). For the time being, my McGyver wire can do the trick but I need something more reliable to ride it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Forbes Posted December 28, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted December 28, 2016 Awesome, back from the dead...Sent from my HTC_PN071 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer RC36Rider Posted December 30, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted December 30, 2016 On 28/12/2016 at 7:39 PM, bdouvill said: For the previous question, I asked because I did not find this part on Honda exploded views (but I tried). For the time being, my McGyver wire can do the trick but I need something more reliable to ride it. I had a long hard look at the parts fiche for the 3G and could not find that piece of wire either. I then checked on my 4G and the wire that goes to the neutral switch comes straight out of the pulse generator wiring loom. Are you positive that you have routed it correctly ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdouvill Posted December 30, 2016 Author Share Posted December 30, 2016 @RC36Rider thanks a lot for checking 😉 I am sure, there is the same kind of wire from the water temp sensor to the main harness, as you can see here: This one is green as mentioned in the wiring diagram - look at the picture background 😉 - so I expect to have one black for the neutral switch but I don't have it... I considered carefully the parts fiches but can find any (neither the temp one nor the neutral one)... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer RC36Rider Posted December 30, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted December 30, 2016 Mine connects directly to this bit here: The extra piece of wire that connects to the temperature sensor is #18 on the wiring harness fiche. I wondered about it as well as it does indeed look like the bit you're missing. All I can say for sure is that my 4G has the same (odd) extra wire to the temperature sensor as yours but no extra wire to the neutral switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer RC36Rider Posted December 30, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted December 30, 2016 Besides, it looks like the extra wire and its connectors are explicitly drawn on the wiring diagram : No such symbols to be seen for the neutral switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JZH Posted January 4, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted January 4, 2017 On 12/28/2016 at 10:59 AM, bdouvill said: Now I put back the wiring harness (what a mess...) and found that I had a tiny part missing. Could anyone give me the Honda reference for that part going from the neutral switch to the main harness? I took me some time to understand that this was missing and caused the starter not to start. Look at my McGyver option here ;-) With that, then starter went back to life but the battery went in smoke right after... Need to get a new one. Is that the correct wire? Here's the other end of mine: The fabric-sleeved wire goes directly to a female bullet connector that attaches to the sender. Could your wiring harness be incorrectly positioned? (And you're missing an M6 bolt!) Ciao, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdouvill Posted January 4, 2017 Author Share Posted January 4, 2017 @JZH the black wire on my own picture is the other side of the one displayed on your picture for sure. This is the part displayed on CMS picture in @RC36Rider post. So I am pretty sure of me ;-) The 10$ question is what is the reference of the missing wire??? And you are right, I have a missing M6 bolt. The beginning of the thread is damaged, I have to find a slightly longer one. I have a spare one like 1 cm longer but it's too long... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JZH Posted January 4, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted January 4, 2017 RC36Rider's pic is a little misleading, because the wire he circled looks like it is going the wrong way. It goes down, directly to the neutral switch on the lower engine casing. There is no missing wire! I think your wire routing must be the issue. PM me your address and tell me the length(s) of your missing bolts. I have them all and would be happy to post to you, gratis. Ciao, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdouvill Posted January 6, 2017 Author Share Posted January 6, 2017 Finally understood that I probably misrouted the whole connector and that nothing is missing. Will have a look this week-end ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer RC36Rider Posted January 6, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted January 6, 2017 I hate to say "I told you so" but... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdouvill Posted January 8, 2017 Author Share Posted January 8, 2017 Problem solved. Thanks to both@RC36Rider and@JZH for your help.Next is carbs rebuild Envoyé de mon SM-A510F en utilisant Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdouvill Posted January 20, 2017 Author Share Posted January 20, 2017 I could not resist to put a picture. I got 2 words for you... Gold Wheels!!!! I'll try to take better pictures this week-end if the sun comes back 😉 Also carb rebuild is done, got to post the pictures as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer RC36Rider Posted January 20, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted January 20, 2017 8 hours ago, bdouvill said: Gold Wheels!!!! Nice ! Freshly powdercoated ? How much ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdouvill Posted January 21, 2017 Author Share Posted January 21, 2017 Got them sandblasted, prepared and powdercoated in a small business next to my place :-) I paid 90€ ex-VAT per wheel but it's well executed. They did not paint the front wheel bearing location nor the threads used to mount the brake discs. They can also sandblast my exhaust pipe. Will do that in a month or two, that did not prevent to try to start the engine with the exhaust pipe as it is now. Got to get some rubbers mounted now. I trashed the front one but kept the rear one: it's outdated (made in late 2011) but not really used (except it is a little bit dry now). I will use it for now in order to remount the bike and change it when it's fully running. Will save some € until then... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JZH Posted January 21, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted January 21, 2017 Looks sweet! You should scrape the paint off the mating surfaces for the rear wheel and the drake discs, though. Ciao, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdouvill Posted January 30, 2017 Author Share Posted January 30, 2017 I got a weird thing with my front disk brakes... The center of the disk is painted in black but got some scratches and I found this would be bad with freshly painted wheels. I cleaned them with brake cleaner (the exterior face only) and the black paint just vanished!!! See the pics: The back: The front after I applied brake cleaner... I can clean them better, I know that 😉 I just wonder whether the inner part is likely to rust with humidity (so I need to repaint them with proper paint) or not. It is likely to see brake discs completely rusty after the rain but it goes away as long as you use the brakes again. It does not apply to the inner part unfortunately and that would be kinda ugly - that would ruin the work on the wheels. I will let the one on the pic outside for a couple of days and see what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer RC36Rider Posted January 30, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted January 30, 2017 I cannot imagine that brake cleaner can do that to the OEM finish. I'd guess they have been repainted with shoe polish applied with too stiff a brush hence the "scratch" marks. Joke aside, it could be that you have merely stripped them back to the OEM finish although I must say it looks a bit bare in the "after" pic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdouvill Posted February 4, 2017 Author Share Posted February 4, 2017 Few pics of the carbs. I rebuilt them a few days ago. When I opened them, found plenty of mud in each carb fuel reservoir... So I had to split everything to clean properly anything including the fuel line. I used a Litetek kit that I ordered at the same time as the one for my Bandit 400 last summer. So yes, I already knew what a pain it can be to put everything back together, especially being sure the balancing mechanism ensure full range of motion around the balance point. Putting back the top plate (that was removed by the previous owner) what a real PITA. I hope I don't have to split them again... Next is putting the bike on its two wheels (I don't feel confident with the front stand) so I can put the carbs and the exhaust back and see how it goes. I'll see for the fork after that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Mac Morgan Posted February 4, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted February 4, 2017 Not sure where the bike came from but I've rebuilt a lot of carbs and a pair from an airhead BMW from Texas had a lot of dried brown stuff in the float bowls. Some of it comes from contaminates in the gas. If the bike's been sitting, check the tank with a good led light and see what's inside. Metal Rescue (from Amazon) is a great product for getting rid of rust. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdouvill Posted February 4, 2017 Author Share Posted February 4, 2017 25 minutes ago, Mac Morgan said: Not sure where the bike came from but I've rebuilt a lot of carbs and a pair from an airhead BMW from Texas had a lot of dried brown stuff in the float bowls. Some of it comes from contaminates in the gas. If the bike's been sitting, check the tank with a good led light and see what's inside. Metal Rescue (from Amazon) is a great product for getting rid of rust. Good luck. The bike has been flooded in 2 meters of water (and lots of mud) for at least 3 days, see the 1st page of this thread and you will get it ;-) Apart from that, the inside of the carbs is quite ok for a 24 year old lady. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdouvill Posted February 11, 2017 Author Share Posted February 11, 2017 Things are progressing and this starts to look like a bike. I was even able to get it out of the garage 😉 I am having troubles with the carb throttle cables. My bandit 400 only has one cable and this is easier to set... I found the cable routing drawings from the Honda manual not super clear so I have some doubts. Nevertheless, there's something wrong. When I am at full turn on the right, I open the throttle and it does not come back at all. No problem when turning on the left. Can someone have a look at my pics and tell me if something is wrong? In particular, I don't like how the 2 cables get out of the frame. The upper cable is bent has the pics show and this might be the reason why the throttle does not come back when cables are tights. Thanks a lot in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdouvill Posted March 11, 2017 Author Share Posted March 11, 2017 Some news. Most important is that it fires!!! Okay, not for long cause I have gas supply issues. Plus the exhaust header is not bolted at the back, that's a pain in the ass to do especially since the 2 front parts don't want to separate from the rest and that I plan to get the header sandblasted. So exhaust gas is leaking from the back and it's really loud... Anyway, already a good point, isn't it? I solved my throttle cable issue, just tension that was not correct. Current issue is gas pump is simply not pumping... I googled and understand I can bypass the gas pump relay which I did. So I don't know if the relay itself is working but when I bypass it, I have +12V at the pump connector. So I guess it's simply not working. Here is the inside: Any advice? I believe I can change the mechanism only but I don't know if it's worth it. Spare pump might be more or less in the same condition. Also, the interior of the tank definitely needs a lifting 😉 I consider buying a tank restoration kit from Restom. Did that on my Bandit (long ago before gravity got me and the tank felt in the garage...) and that works really well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted March 11, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted March 11, 2017 It will run fine without the fuel pump, except for the last few liters. What you could do is 1st get is roadworthy and once you go on a longer tour, knowing that fuel level is empty, take a 5 liter jerrycan with you. that way you know what mileage you can expect end either live with that or spend $ on a pump.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JZH Posted March 12, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted March 12, 2017 You probably need a new pump, but the points can be replaced with an optical trigger made for a KTM 950, I think it is. A dutch guy on ADVrider sells them. Ciao, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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