Jump to content

Done / To-Do / Addons - Suggestions?


hellindustries

Recommended Posts

I like lists, i like sharing lists. I also like to get feedback on work or addons to do. Would love to get replacement mirrors with that 'memory click' position thing like modern bikes have - But would need to pretty much be bolt on and go. Even better if they have built-in indicators.

I'm mostly restoring or improving bits around the bike right now; Older bolts are being replaced with OEM parts, some of the weird green-ish ones are being swapped out with stainless versions and/or being upgraded to a caphead.


DONE

  • new OEM front spindle bolt
  • new OEM front mudguard bolts
  • new handlebar bolts
  • new OEM fairing bolts
  • new OEM rear sprocket nuts
  • new OEM rear wheel nuts
  • new OEM rear wheel locking nut
  • new tank bolts
  • delete airbox snorkel
  • disable flapper valve
  • add MRA Vario touring screen
  • add Stomp grip pads
  • new mirror bolts
  • modify undertray - remove document tabs
  • add USB socket
  • new front fork pinch bolts
  • paint buffed sealed and waxed
  • paint rear sprocket
  • paint forks
  • Fit bar risers (AMAZING difference)

TO-DO

  • touch-up bracket holding speedo
  • and replace nuts and bolts
  • replace bar pinch bolts
  • replace protruding bolts near grabs with something smaller
  • replace fuel cap bolts with new caphead
  • clean and spray around front engine area behind front wheel
  • replace carbon heel guards
  • Disassemble parts under top yoke and clean
  • replace calliper bolts w/ caphead
  • rear sprocket washers
  • engine bolts (6x32) x22 - replace visible only w/ stainless caphead
  • get paint chips and scuffs fixed

ADDONS

  • 350mm Delkevic high-line can
  • Denali sound bomb (horn) (split version)
  • R&G bar end sliders
  • R&G crash bungs
  • Pipercross air filter
  • Wheels powdercoated
  • Puig lever set
  • Riderscan
  • DID X ring heavy duty chain & sprockets
  • Mirror spacers (20mm)
  • Tank shield
  • oxford heated grips (sports)
  • Exhaust protector
  • Yamaha R1 reg/rec (2004-2006) Must be MOSFET / FH
  • Headlight protector
  • Pilot road 4's
  • reflective rim tape
  • MCT suspension service
  • CNC foot pegs
  • Jollify carbon heel guards
  • grippy seat re-cover + mod for lower angle
  • Voltage meter
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Wow - that's comprehensive. The only thing I didn't note there was luggage or a topcase. Maybe that's already on the bike.

Just curious on the bolt replacements - wondering what happened to the OEM ones.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow - that's comprehensive. The only thing I didn't note there was luggage or a topcase. Maybe that's already on the bike.

Just curious on the bolt replacements - wondering what happened to the OEM ones.

Luggage isn't really any kind of priority for me in the near to mid-term. It's something i'll look into maybe next year or the year after if i can afford to go on a short holiday/vacation, but i'm more interested in spending the money on the bike.

Bolts: Nothing mechanically wrong with them, just weathered beyond restoration and/or rusty

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Add a voltage gauge. Someday, you'll be glad you did.

+1 on voltage gauge. ADVmonster sells a nice digital one. Honda marine also sells a round analog type. I used that one in my '01 so that it matched all of the other gauges, and the ADVmonster on my '07 and '01. Easy to read in sunlight and also waterproof (supposedly).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

I always forget how nasty living on an island can be to bolts, exhaust systems, wheel bearings etc...but then again, I grew up in Michigan...where the weather eats automobiles. My first car was a Fred Flintstone Opel 1900 sedan...I used to have to lift my feed up over deep puddles to keep my socks dry. Best of luck with the maintenance!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Caliper bolts. I wouldn't use stainless steel in that application. Plenty of titanium bolts on eBay, though.

Ciao,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Stainless is not as strong as steel (in general), and is much weaker than steel in shear-strength. You might get away with using stainless steel caliper mounting bolts, but I won't take that chance with my brakes.

Ciao,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Healtec speedohealer http://www.healtech-electronics.com/products/sh/

Healtec Gipro gear indicator http://www.healtech-electronics.com/products/gipro/

McCruise - cruise control http://www.mccruise.com/

Gripster tank protector: http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/techspec-snake-skin-center-tank-pad

Smoked grey Indicators: http://www.lights4all.com

Smoked grey LED tail light Taillight: http://www.lights4all.com

Blue LED instrument lights

Sargents seat: http://www.sargentcycle.com/

post-28916-0-68858200-1443870835.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...
On 03/10/2015 at 10:54 AM, JZH said:

Stainless is not as strong as steel (in general), and is much weaker than steel in shear-strength. You might get away with using stainless steel caliper mounting bolts, but I won't take that chance with my brakes.

Ciao,

 

Sorry to drag this up, but caliper mount bolts are not subject to shear stress. The calipers don't slide on the mounts so it's just tensile strength you need to hold it all tight together. But you knew that John didn't you. :biggrin:

 

I cannot recommend that anyone do it, but I have used stainless bolts for this and never had a problem. But mostly I use Ti which is just so delightfully light. I love it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

The GSXR signal mirrors aren't a direct swap, but look great. Also don't have that "home" position you're looking for. All those types tend to have the wrong angles to mount to the fairing. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
3 hours ago, BiKenG said:

 

Sorry to drag this up, but caliper mount bolts are not subject to shear stress. The calipers don't slide on the mounts so it's just tensile strength you need to hold it all tight together. But you knew that John didn't you. :biggrin:

 

I cannot recommend that anyone do it, but I have used stainless bolts for this and never had a problem. But mostly I use Ti which is just so delightfully light. I love it.

 

No worries, Ken; I was just mentioning two facts about stainless steel fasteners that explain my refusal to use them in critical applications (such as holding the stoppers on).  I use them for axle pinch bolts and triple clamp bolts, no problem, but I draw the line at calipers and discs.  I agree that the reduction in tensile strength may not be significant, but I don't want to be the guy who discovers that it in a particular case it was significant--and that I was the one who decided to downgrade my brake hardware because I was too vain to use OEM or too cheap to buy titanium... :unsure:

 

Ciao,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

The best conspicuity upgrade I've done is LED replacement H4 bulbs. I've noticed evidence that I'm much more visible to surrounding traffic. 

This is where I got mine:

http://www.highperformancebulbs.com/h4-cree-led-bulbs-headlight-bulbs-super-bright.html

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, JZH said:

 

No worries, Ken; I was just mentioning two facts about stainless steel fasteners that explain my refusal to use them in critical applications (such as holding the stoppers on).  I use them for axle pinch bolts and triple clamp bolts, no problem, but I draw the line at calipers and discs.  I agree that the reduction in tensile strength may not be significant, but I don't want to be the guy who discovers that it in a particular case it was significant--and that I was the one who decided to downgrade my brake hardware because I was too vain to use OEM or too cheap to buy titanium... :unsure:

 

Ciao,

 

I've seen this being argued about so many times, but with no resolution - and no broken stainless bolts either, but it is of course up to the individual.

 

Honda states for the FireBlade (at least the 2012 model) that their hollow caliper mount bolts are NOT to be re-used and so must to be replaced every time they are undone. Since this is required to get the pads out, it rather adds to the cost of changing brake pads. In the long term it's cheaper to just buy Ti bolts and re-use them. Actually, I reckon you could get Ti bolts for less than Honda UK would charge for their steel ones anyway so no contest really.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy.