Member Contributer TedJake Posted September 21, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted September 21, 2015 All - I've scanned the 6gen posts for a similar topic and couldn't find a match, so I'm starting what I hope will be a short thread. My 2003 has been running flawlessly since I bought it in 2012. About 3 weeks ago, when commuting, the engine quit when accelerating from a stoplight. No sputtering or rough running, just quit. When cycling through the start routine - key and kill switch cycled off then back on - I noticed the FI light came on but no noise from the fuel injectors, or the FI light didn't come on at all. After a few seconds and repeated cycling, I could hear the injectors do their thing, and she started up as if nothing happened. That happened twice on that commute, then no issues until today. I put about 500 local miles with no issues since this first happened. Today, same symptoms as above, but a few of the times the FI light would flash instead of light/no noise or no light/no noise. Happens under load starting from a stoplight, but has also happened on the freeway at speed. Not sure if I just need to run a fuel treatment (I buy mostly QuikTrip Premium/Non-Ethanol fuel, but top with regular unleaded if on the road), or if the problem is electrical or some other issue with the fuel injection system. ...or if I'm going down the wrong path. May be TMI, but when I bought the bike in 9/12, it had @ 8k miles (<1k/year). It now has 30k - point being, it sat a lot in its youth, but is getting lots of use now, so I don't necessarily think its a fuel tank issue. I also have it checked annually by local dealers for all tuneups. Any advice or assistance is greatly appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mk2davis Posted September 21, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted September 21, 2015 What is your battery voltage? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer TedJake Posted September 21, 2015 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 21, 2015 I will check tonight - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer wagzhp Posted September 21, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted September 21, 2015 Could be a voltage/battery issue, or it could be a ground issue, or the kill switch/starter switch might just need to be cleaned and re-lubed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted September 21, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted September 21, 2015 Clean the kill switch . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted September 21, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted September 21, 2015 My money would be an electrical fault, either a bad earth or a slightly dirty switch or connector. Fuel issues don't present like this so unless your fuel consumption has shot up I wouldn't go there. Switchblade's suggestion sounds like a good start (particularly if cycling the kill switch on/off bought the bike back to life), after that I'd pull each connector apart and inspect for corrosion and use some contact cleaner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer deltaboxii Posted September 21, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted September 21, 2015 I had a loose battery cable that caused something similar to yours. I checked all of the hard stuff, and then realized it was something that simple. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer BusyLittleShop Posted September 21, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted September 21, 2015 Start with the battery for it's the weakest link in the whole system... Todetermine the condition of an Maintenance Free battery give it arefreshing charge... wait 30 minutes... measure terminal voltage...12.8 or higher is a good battery...12.0 to 12.8 is a insufficient charge... recharge...12.0 or lower... battery unserviceable... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted September 22, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted September 22, 2015 To Swicthblade's suggestion, I have seen contact cleaner sprayed around the perimeter of the kill switch button give a re-start to a dead system. Enough will run down around the edges and get down to the contacts. Your bike's going on 13 years old - a bit of inspection and maintenance of the electrical system can go a long way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer TedJake Posted September 22, 2015 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 22, 2015 Fantastic suggestions, all - THANK YOU! I always start at the cheapest fixes first, so last night I drained the tank (@ 2 gallons), put in fresh non-ethanol fuel and some Sta-Bil. Bike idled fine as I put everything away and back together. Literally the second I put my helmet on she died. I only have an analog multimeter, and with no drain the battery appears just under or at 12 volts, and just under 13 when she starts up, so I'm going that route - will roll her over near an outlet and charge it up. While I'm waiting I'll check and clean the kill switch connections. Was hoping to make my next bike shop visit in the Spring, but will check it out now... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted September 23, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted September 23, 2015 I get right on 12.0-12.V ignition on engine off, and 13.4 at idle, 13.8 the rest of the time. I doubt you've got an electrical supply problem but the kill switch still sounds pretty likely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hondahero Posted September 24, 2015 Share Posted September 24, 2015 Terry - I had a similar problem on my 2004 and it nearly drove me crazy. Turned out to be a corroded and melted main fuse. It was not blown, but it was in bad enough shape that it caused intermittent power failure. I replaced the holder and the fuse. Good luck David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer TedJake Posted October 15, 2015 Author Member Contributer Share Posted October 15, 2015 Sorry for the delayed response - I finally took it to a local Honda shop, and here's what they came up with - the quote from the invoice: Inspected all wiring connections and found that the red and white wire at regulator rectifier had a bad connection. Cleaned terminal, applied grease and reconnected & test rode. I put about 200 issue-free miles, since. Thanks for all the info! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted October 15, 2015 Share Posted October 15, 2015 Fantastic suggestions, all - THANK YOU! I only have an analog multimeter, and with no drain the battery appears just under or at 12 volts, and just under 13 when she starts up, so I'm going that route - will roll her over near an outlet and charge it up. While I'm waiting I'll check and clean the kill switch connections. agm battery? charge the battery fully, it should be 12.8v minimum on a full charge, really a good AGM will hold 13 volt for weeks in standby, but you have obvious issues with your statement. if you charge the battery and a few hours later it falls below 12.8 volt in standby, get rid of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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