Nelso90 Posted August 10, 2015 Share Posted August 10, 2015 Hey guys, So last I talked to you I had installed the VFRNess on my bike (thanks for the help TIghtwad!), ran all the tests, and went ahead and rode the bike to work, figured everything was great since the charging system was working. Well two push starts and a bit of swearing later, I've got more work. I removed the airbox and throttles to figure out an ECT sensor issue and give me better access to the rest of the wiring harness. I also disconnected the VFRNess so I could isolate the wiring back to stock. Stator tests good, R/R tests good also. OK, here's the issue. I can leave my bike sitting for 8 hours, and the battery dies. It seems to charge fine as it starts right up after I've ridden a while. I found I have a current draw and worked to isolate it down. The behavior is really strange. Per the wiring diagram, I went out from the two main fuses. If I pull either fuse A or fuse B, I get no change in the amp draw (about .45 amps). Now if I pull both, the draw goes to zero, but you'd think the current draw would be attributed to one fuse or the other since it appears they serve different circuits. here's the weird bit... With ONLY FUSE B connected, I disconnect the R/R connector feeding the bike, and the current draw disappears. Now if I disconnect that connector with both fuses in, there is no change. The other issue I have is my coolant temp display randomly drops to 95 degrees, then pops back to whatever engine coolant temp is. Could these two issues be related? I am thinking the ECT issue is a short somewhere, but short of replacing the entire wiring harness of the bike I don't know what to do. I am not an electrical guy, and I've really reached my wits end. Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer rhoderage Posted August 10, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted August 10, 2015 Make sure to have a good close look at main fuse A and B... they are both prone to melting down the fuse holder. Also the connection point on top of the Starter Soleniod Relay likes to burn up at the red wire (pic below) - try removing the reddish connector and see how it looks underneath. That pic is of mine, '02 as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted August 10, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted August 10, 2015 Check all connectors and pull all of the fuses but leave the mains in. Then put your meter back on and start installing the fuses one at a time and watch the meter and see if the current reading returns. The last fuse installed should identify the area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted August 10, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted August 10, 2015 ^ ^ ^ Exactly! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelso90 Posted August 10, 2015 Author Share Posted August 10, 2015 Hey rhoderage, I did notice my red connector was a touch melted looking. I am getting a new starter solenoid off Amazon too (I mean for 6 bucks...), and Switchblade, I will pull everything and see what happens with both main fuses installed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted August 11, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted August 11, 2015 Hey rhoderage, I did notice my red connector was a touch melted looking. I am getting a new starter solenoid off Amazon too (I mean for 6 bucks...), and Switchblade, I will pull everything and see what happens with both main fuses installed. 10 4 Interested in what you find . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelso90 Posted August 12, 2015 Author Share Posted August 12, 2015 Alright, got an update... I left the two main fuses, A and B near the battery, in place, and pulled all the other fuses (and the diode) in the box, as well as the small fuse in line to the fuel cut relay. I still got the current draw. I then proceeded to install everything back in place. Next, I tried the next logical step (in my mind) of pulling Fuse B and leaving the starter solenoid connector connected, as I still got a current draw when it was connected. That fuse feeds keyswitch power and the fuse going to the "clock." I pulled the keyswitch connector and it had no effect on the current draw. After this, I followed it back to the fuse, pulled it, and the draw went away. I pulled the 20 pin connector on the instrument cluster and the current draw went away again (oh sh*t.). I removed the cluster and pulled it apart only to find nothing wrong. No blown caps and no burn marks, no corrosion either. This leaves me at a bit of a dead end for that circuit, as fuse A only feeds the keyswitch (proven good) and the instrument cluster (nothing seen as bad). If I plug in Fuse B, I get the current draw again. This has me stymied, I do not know how I can get a draw on both items at the same time. Any ideas? I pulled the starter relay connector and it was slightly melted on the same pin with the red wire pictured above, but not bad enough to cause issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted August 12, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted August 12, 2015 Sounds like it has to be in the wiring or a connector. Are we talking milliamps ? What is your meter reading in milliamps and just for clarification what type of meter are you using. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelso90 Posted August 12, 2015 Author Share Posted August 12, 2015 Switchblade, If I am reading correctly, my gauge is in amps, it's a radio shack combination amp clamp and DVOM. Model No. 22-172. I was reading between .3 and .4A depending on the battery state of charge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted August 12, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted August 12, 2015 Hmm if it is a 14ah battery so 14Ah / .4a = 10 hour til 0vdc. Does your clamp on current meter reading device measure the same amount if your reverse it . What I mean is if it is facing the battery and you read it and you turn it 180 degrees and re-clamp it does it read the same amount. I remember this problem before and it turn out to be the current meter polarity sensitive . The real problem was a bad cell in the battery . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelso90 Posted August 12, 2015 Author Share Posted August 12, 2015 I am using the amp meter in series. It has leads and I put them in series with the circuit, going from the battery negative to the negative lead on the bike. It reads the same amp draw either way once I zero it. EDIT to my post last night 22:32 EST... Alright, got an update... I left the two main fuses, A and B near the battery, in place, and pulled all the other fuses (and the diode) in the box, as well as the small fuse in line to the fuel cut relay. I still got the current draw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted August 12, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted August 12, 2015 Now start disconnecting connector . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saltytech Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 ^^^^^^^Anything new after this. ^^^^^^^^ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kaldek Posted October 13, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted October 13, 2015 You need one of those IR camera guns. Look for the hot spot because that's where your current draw is. Whatever that problem is, 0.45 amps of draw is gonna be warm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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