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Posted

So last year I crashed my 2001, low-sided it in a corner causing it to flip.

Crash caused a bent rear subframe and slightly bent front fairing stay (amongst other things). New subframe was installed, and bike was on the road again.

Ever since then I've noticed a slight wobble at speed when there's a bump in the road. Also seems to happen on sharp deceleration. Doesn't cause a tank slapper or anything, but it feels a bit unstable.

It doesn't seem to happen at low speed as far as I can tell, but it might be that I'm just used to it now.

Researching this kind of thing, it looks like there are a few things that could be wrong:

  • Head bearings (replaced last year with tapered). I haven't checked the torque on these recently, possibly could be loose?
  • Forks bent. No, checked with run-out gauge.
  • Wheel bearings. Doesn't seem to be any play.
  • Tire pressures. At spec, PR3s installed.
  • Frame bent. Don't think this is the case, measured the wheel alignment as per haynes manual and found no difference, but wasn't particularly accurate.

I'm not sure if this is all in my head, or if there's actually a problem.

Am I missing something basic?

  • Member Contributer
Posted

It's also possible that the wheel could be slightly twisted within the forks. You might try loosening the axle pinch bolts and axle bolt, then use the front brake and your weight to compress the forks a couple times. See how that works.

Posted

Check head bearing torque. Wih the front off the ground, should require about 5-10 lbs of force from the fork tube to move the fork.

Posted

Thanks for the replies.

It's also possible that the wheel could be slightly twisted within the forks. You might try loosening the axle pinch bolts and axle bolt, then use the front brake and your weight to compress the forks a couple times. See how that works.

Did think of this. Forks have been off three times since the crash and I've always tried to settle them as much as possible.

Check head bearing torque. Wih the front off the ground, should require about 5-10 lbs of force from the fork tube to move the fork.

I'll need to do this. From past experience it's definitely less than 5 lbs.

Hopefully that'll sort it out.

  • Member Contributer
Posted

You ride over 70 mph? What kinda hooligans have we got on this website anyhow?

  • Member Contributer
Posted

The easiest way to check the fork is to loosen the pinch bolts on the top tree and the lower tree and then grab each fork tube and try to twist it, if the do not spin them got bent fork, you do not need to take the wheel off, it is not super accurate but you can tell if they are bent without taking everything apart.

  • Member Contributer
Posted

In short...

Deceleration Shimmy = front tire problems... (annoying)...

Wobble = front end problems... (could grow into the dreaded tank slapper)

Weave = rear end problems... (annoying)...

DECELERATION SHIMMY

You might have experienced a deceleration shimmy and it's normal...
some bikes may shimmy decelerating through the 45 mph range... keeping
your hands on the bars should arrest most of the front end shimmy...
some bikes shimmy more than others and it's no big deal with your
hands on the bars in the critical speed range... your bike should be
immune at speeds above 45 mph...

Deceleration shimmy is chiefly the product of non OEM or a worn
tires... it ain't the product of tire cupping... but low pressure or
loose steering head bearings defeat the tire's corrective efforts...

because every bike has this instability... it is held in check by
damping forces created mainly by the tire's self-correcting
tendencies...

STEERING HEAD BEARINGS
If your steering head bearings are too tight the bike will weave and
not seek it own center... if you're steering head bearings are loose
you'll notice a pronounce clunk during braking... I don't use torque
figures rather I raise the front wheel off the ground and tighten the
steering head bearings until the bars lock then I back off the nut
until the bars free wheel with a slight drag... with this method you
find that sweat spot and avoid over tightening and under tightening
even if you upgrade to taper roller bearings...

WOBBLE or HEAD SHAKE
Any bike my be induced into a head shake... head shakes happen under
acceleration as the front tire hits a bump or finds a rut... a slight
disturbance in front tire alignment occurs and the rider feels the
head shake... and if the rider stays loose on the bars they seldom
grow into the dreaded tank slapper... steering dampeners don't cure
the head shakes rather they lessen the degree the rider feels...
perhaps it's best to hold back adding stuff until you have your
technique sorted out...

Posted

The easiest way to check the fork is to loosen the pinch bolts on the top tree and the lower tree and then grab each fork tube and try to twist it, if the do not spin them got bent fork, you do not need to take the wheel off, it is not super accurate but you can tell if they are bent without taking everything apart.

Yep, it's definitely not bent fork tubes. I've measured them with a run-out gauge.

In short...

Deceleration Shimmy = front tire problems... (annoying)...

Wobble = front end problems... (could grow into the dreaded tank slapper)

Weave = rear end problems... (annoying)...

Thanks Busy. I'm guessing it is loose steering head bearings. I'll go out and check the torque as soon as the rain lets up.

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