Member Contributer Dutchy Posted October 3, 2015 Author Member Contributer Posted October 3, 2015 Next on the list is the front forks, for they compress, but rebound is a bit erratic..... Maybe in the coming months a large box will arrive at my door.... Quote
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted October 3, 2015 Author Member Contributer Posted October 3, 2015 Darkness falls across the land..... Thank you Keny Thank you to the mule! Quote
keny Posted October 4, 2015 Posted October 4, 2015 So its winter already in Holland? Looking great and now you know the time as you ride. Quote
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted October 4, 2015 Author Member Contributer Posted October 4, 2015 Yeah Keny, I had this down for a winter evening..... messed up fitting the Stebel, see electrical post.. Quote
VFRBert Posted October 4, 2015 Posted October 4, 2015 Next on the list is the front forks, for they compress, but rebound is a bit erratic..... Maybe in the coming months a large box will arrive at my door.... Unless you install cartridge emulators, there is not much around to improve the old damperrod fork. Quote
keny Posted October 5, 2015 Posted October 5, 2015 (edited) The only thing, whitout cartige emulators, is to play arround whit diffrent brands of fork oil to get the one that performs as close as you like. One brands 10w is slightly diffrent to a other barands 10w I have noticed, and some brand have a broder range of viscositets, like Motorex that have 2,5w, 5w, 7,5w, 15w as a multi grade 10w30 , where many just have 5w, 10w and 15w in there range Edited October 5, 2015 by keny Quote
Member Contributer Mohawk Posted October 5, 2015 Member Contributer Posted October 5, 2015 The problem with thick oil is whilst it improves the damping, it reacts badly over harsh bumps. I fitted ReaceTech emulators to mine & they were excellent. Rather than remove the dampers & enlarge the damping holes, as per their advice on installation, I fitted them as they came on minimum setting & used 5w oil. They also add 20mm of preload which is great. YMMV Quote
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted October 5, 2015 Author Member Contributer Posted October 5, 2015 http://vid113.photobucket.com/albums/n206/Dutchy_748/VIDEO0057_zps3lvbsife.mp4 Sorted! Quote
keny Posted October 5, 2015 Posted October 5, 2015 http://vid113.photobucket.com/albums/n206/Dutchy_748/VIDEO0057_zps3lvbsife.mp4 Sorted! Quote
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted October 6, 2015 Author Member Contributer Posted October 6, 2015 The claxon and extra meters routed via a fuse box Hidden from view by the lower cowl, it shoudl be ok in this spot. One of the FIAMMs on redslut is close to the header too with no ill effect. Will keep an eye on it though, may add another bracket mounting point. Quote
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted October 7, 2015 Author Member Contributer Posted October 7, 2015 Next on the list is the front forks, for they compress, but rebound is a bit erratic..... Maybe in the coming months a large box will arrive at my door.... Unless you install cartridge emulators, there is not much around to improve the old damperrod fork. Do I simply take out the springs, drop in the emulator, put spring on top and button up? Or do I have to take the forks apart and drill/machine something? My 4th gen has rods attached to the stanchion caps that slide inside a hollow rod (that is screwed ont othe cap) My VF500F2 has none of this; caps have and air valve and once I take the springs out, I pretty much have empty stanchions (with as per the parts fiche) soem parts at the bottowm Quote
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted October 7, 2015 Author Member Contributer Posted October 7, 2015 next question...................... as per the fiche, the VF500F came with either a 44T rear sprocket (1984-85) or 43T (1986), Front sprocket 16T through the years. CORRECTION 15T!!! What would a 41T rear sprocket bring me (good or bad)? Quote
Member Contributer Duc2V4 Posted October 7, 2015 Member Contributer Posted October 7, 2015 next question...................... as per the fiche, the VF500F came with either a 44T rear sprocket (1984-85) or 43T (1986), Front sprocket 16T through the years. What would a 41T rear sprocket bring me (good or bad)? Your take off from a stop would be tougher but top speed would increase. See if thi helps at all...http://www.gearingcommander.com Quote
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted October 7, 2015 Author Member Contributer Posted October 7, 2015 cheers Duc! Local Ebay has a chain+sprocket set from a private seller, but I am not looking for more top speed; the 185kmh on GPS is more than enough.... I love the way the puma pulls from 0 so not messing with that. Quote
Member Contributer tbzep Posted October 7, 2015 Member Contributer Posted October 7, 2015 next question...................... as per the fiche, the VF500F came with either a 44T rear sprocket (1984-85) or 43T (1986), Front sprocket 16T through the years. What would a 41T rear sprocket bring me (good or bad)? Your take off from a stop would be tougher but top speed would increase. See if thi helps at all...http://www.gearingcommander.com Top speed would theoretically increase. In reality it wouldn't because the VF500F was never able to redline in top gear on level ground, even with the stock sprocket. With that in mind, you'd be hurting performance in every gear and RPM. That's just going by my experience 25 years ago. My college roommate owned a 1984 model and I owned a 1986 model. You might get a little better fuel mileage if the RPM drop isn't enough to lug the engine at cruising speed. Quote
Member Contributer Mohawk Posted October 8, 2015 Member Contributer Posted October 8, 2015 next question...................... as per the fiche, the VF500F came with either a 44T rear sprocket (1984-85) or 43T (1986), Front sprocket 16T through the years. What would a 41T rear sprocket bring me (good or bad)? Well your launch would be harder, but your top speed would NOT increase, drag stops the bike accelerating before gearing does ! A bigger rear sprocket would increase your acceleration rate & the right one might allow a minor increase in top speed at the red line in top. But you have to weigh up the extra revs at all times, verses the extra fuel burn & do you need it ? Run the numbers via gearing commander. Quote
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted October 8, 2015 Author Member Contributer Posted October 8, 2015 Yeah that bargain price for the set looks wholly unattractive with this knowledge! so that leaves my question re emulators on a VF500F2. Having read a bit mote it appears I would have to reassemble and drill/widen the oil holes in the lower innards? Quote
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted October 10, 2015 Author Member Contributer Posted October 10, 2015 Hhhmmmm was greeted by this in the morning and it stayed there all day..... It did not spoil my day :-) Gimme shelter... Quote
TheDutchy Posted October 10, 2015 Posted October 10, 2015 (edited) Check the battery fluid levels.. If the battery gets a bit low on level, it might get up in that range.. Not to worry, not as long it gets in the 14.5+ range.. Edited October 10, 2015 by TheDutchy Quote
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted October 10, 2015 Author Member Contributer Posted October 10, 2015 Oh I am not worried with the voltage, that idles at 12+ with lights on and heated gloves. The 14is at 2000rpm and upIt is the moisture inside that is a bit annoying.... :-)U missed a nice ride.... Quote
keny Posted October 10, 2015 Posted October 10, 2015 (edited) next question...................... as per the fiche, the VF500F came with either a 44T rear sprocket (1984-85) or 43T (1986), Front sprocket 16T through the years. What would a 41T rear sprocket bring me (good or bad)? The thing is all years had a 15T front sprocket, not a 16T, and the US Interceptor versions had the rear sprockets you say, but the European model (or ROW) had 84-> mid 85 43T rear and mid>85->86 had a 41T rear sprocket. that according to JTsprockets.com. Mine had a 43T rear and have to say I would not had mind a 41T on the ride home from Dutch ground. And as strong mine did pull in low rpm, I would not mind to test one If I still had the bike... But look what size you have now, and how you like it and if you like it, stick whit the gearing you have. The 120/90 rear tire you have will also have same effect as one tooth minus on your rear sprocket, as it has a larger OD than the stock 110/90. Mine had a 120/90 also rear on the ride home, did change it for a 120/80 that is recomended size for the stock 2,75 rim. Seem you had a nice ride again Edited October 10, 2015 by keny Quote
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted October 10, 2015 Author Member Contributer Posted October 10, 2015 Ah yes my bad, front is a 15T... Had a good 240km run indeed! I will remove the voltage gauge and see if I can dry-out the moisture inside.. It will be even sunnier tomorrow, but with 11C it will feel more nippy..... Not as nippy as southern Sweden at 03:00 wearing summer gloves..... Quote
keny Posted October 10, 2015 Posted October 10, 2015 (edited) It will be even sunnier tomorrow, but with 11C it will feel more nippy..... Not as nippy as southern Sweden at 03:00 wearing summer gloves..... 11C, thats not bad, I had -4C the other morning, +1C on the day......and for the 3am Sweden run, I did have thicker gloves on by then (had along)...but still not.....you know Ah yes my bad, front is a 15T... If you have a 16T front now, a 15/41 will be slightly lower than a 16/43...so faster acceralation Edited October 10, 2015 by keny Quote
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted October 18, 2015 Author Member Contributer Posted October 18, 2015 Into the great wide open.... Quote
keny Posted October 22, 2015 Posted October 22, 2015 So how many miles have you got on the clock on your 500 so far since you got it? Quote
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