Member Contributer Polarbear Posted April 10, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted April 10, 2016 This is a good point. Didn't know. Tnx Duc. C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFRBert Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 even with the torque wrench set to the right spec?? Specs in wph's are for nuts and bolts Without grease or Anti seize, unless otherwise mentioned. With grease the thread gives lees resistance, the result is you make more turns before reaching the spec on the torque wrench. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted April 10, 2016 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 10, 2016 Clear! I will remove all the bolts now just to be sure, degrease the threads and holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Polarbear Posted April 11, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted April 11, 2016 Clear! I will remove all the bolts now just to be sure, degrease the threads and holes. Who would EVER think that LESS lube is better?!?!? C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keny Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 So what size if the Roadsmart? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Mohawk Posted April 11, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted April 11, 2016 If I figure out what caused the increased girth of the seals, I will sell loads of it.... :-) Already being sold, plain old oil or grease ! That's what swells them, beccause they are NOT rubber, but are a hydrocarbon based man made rubber, which absorbs HC lubes ! Use red rubber or a NON HC based lube ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted April 11, 2016 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 11, 2016 So what size if the Roadsmart? 110-90/16 Streetsmart If I figure out what caused the increased girth of the seals, I will sell loads of it.... :-) Already being sold, plain old oil or grease ! That's what swells them, beccause they are NOT rubber, but are a hydrocarbon based man made rubber, which absorbs HC lubes ! Use red rubber or a NON HC based lube ! Aye! but using penetrating oil prior to loosen the slider pin did the damage I reckon.... Checked and cleaned the calipers on redslut today (different slider pin design), not a speck of rust/dirt. Did remove the old grease and put some red inside :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keny Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 (edited) How does the bigger tire effect the handling? Effect on the odo/speedo reading? Edited April 12, 2016 by keny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted April 12, 2016 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 12, 2016 Handling is fine, which is most likely my lack of skills in noticing differences.... Yet to take puma out in earnests and will check speedo vs GPS Been giving redslut some TLC and riding time, to make up far last year's lack of giving her some. Hell knows no fury like a woman scorned and all that... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keny Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 Well new rubber always feel good, mainly think if the steering did get any slower...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Mohawk Posted April 12, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted April 12, 2016 The steering is unlikely to be affected due to the new profile of the new tyre. The speedo will read slightly closer to REAL as they all over read as standard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keny Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 (edited) A higher profile tire has a bigger OD that will rise the front and effect the fork/head angle, so will effect the steering in some degree. Also the Trail will slightly change. Edited April 12, 2016 by keny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted April 12, 2016 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 12, 2016 Well, on Sunday we have a mc tour with some 25 work colleagues, on roads I know well so I will put it to the test. The rear shock a height adjustable YSS, I had it raised a few mm. With the RT emulators and springs, I already felt the front end riding a bit higher, so depending on what gives, I will play with forks height, maybe dropping a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted April 18, 2016 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 18, 2016 Puma was out playing with some 20 colleagues yesterday during a 170km loop on dikes and polders. So that means (3) ferries. It was below 10C with ominous dark clouds but be luckily did escape most of it. Not the hail though.. In our group a guy on a HD Sportster wore jeans and a fabric jackets, yeah his core temperature dropped significantly.... I enjoyed my Powerlet gloves! But.......... when I bought her, the right front fork seal looked dodgy and 5,000km later... So time has come to replace the seals and decided whether or not to drill extra oil passages as per the instruction that came with the RaceTech emulators... Time to call The Dutchy! "Go see the doctor...." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keny Posted April 19, 2016 Share Posted April 19, 2016 (edited) Looks like the holder of the front turn signals has hit your fork seal, did it on mine to! Needed some adjustmet to clare it... I think you will have a "new" bike again whit new fork seals and emulator kit But how did your new, bigger size, front tire work? Edited April 19, 2016 by keny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted April 19, 2016 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 19, 2016 Well, it was damaged like that when I bought the bike, but nothing seems to touch it. But for good measure I will bend the bracket out a bit more. The new front tire works flawlessly for me But today after work was done, I took out redslut for a bit of quality time! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Captain 80s Posted April 19, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted April 19, 2016 (edited) So time has come to replace the seals and decided whether or not to drill extra oil passages as per the instruction that came with the RaceTech emulators... Time to call The Dutchy! "Go see the doctor...." You do need to drill the damping rods. That is how you ensure they get enough oil to do their job. If you don't you essentially still have damping rod forks (trying to push oil through a hole before the actual shim stack). And the recommended heavier weight oil that the Gold Valves are designed for is what controls the rebound damping. I source a used set of rods when I do them so I can have everything modified and ready before the forks come apart. And then you still have the original parts in case you pull the valves for some reason. Edited April 19, 2016 by Captain 80s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Mohawk Posted April 19, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted April 19, 2016 I used the gold valve emulators that I bought for my VF500 but never got round to fitting to my CBF250 without modifying the rods I used thinner oil to compensate. They worked great like that ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keny Posted April 20, 2016 Share Posted April 20, 2016 But today after work was done, I took out redslut for a bit of quality time! The bloming threes looks as nice as last year Good the tire worked well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted April 25, 2016 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 25, 2016 Right, parts order time for the front forks.... Got the RT seals and top caps. Is it correct that the right leg (left in the picture) has ONE slider bush (#12) whereas the left leg (TRAC leg) has TWO #11's stacked on top of each other?? What about part #22 (one each)? These were used on the 1984 only (as per the fiche table below, mine is an 85-86 F2)? no need to order? The Dutch shop manual says #22 is a "felt ring" which must be soaked in Molykote? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted April 26, 2016 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 26, 2016 Bump on the questions! Does the left (trac) fork requires one or two slider bushings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keny Posted April 27, 2016 Share Posted April 27, 2016 (edited) Did not open my fork legs, sorry. But sure look like the Trac side has 2 and other side just one, but seem to be different between the legs also, at least according to CMSNL, even they has only the US speck listed. http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-vf500f-interceptor-1986-g-usa_model7598/partslist/F++09.html#results Edited April 27, 2016 by keny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted April 30, 2016 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 30, 2016 Today redslut got some TLC and ride :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted May 2, 2016 Author Member Contributer Share Posted May 2, 2016 Here is one for Keny :-) And one for you AF buffs... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keny Posted May 4, 2016 Share Posted May 4, 2016 Good thing, she did need it! Was happy I think :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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