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VF500F2 Aka MBD Incubation Period At Least 52 Years


Dutchy

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Fired pretty much right up with some battery help... Set choke on high to stop her stalling. She's a wee bit noisy...

PO bought her (Italian import) in 2010, put a mere 5,000 kilometres on her. Never checked valves/cams. 

Once I've done that (and find them ok), free front wheel (it is binding) followed by fresh oil etc will be next. The clutch does SFA....

IMG_20190720_143756.thumb.jpg.05256077fa8714bcdef346f15e6b8e4e.jpg

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MBS infection started 4 years ago already..... :goofy:

 

 

Screenshot_20190720-200459.thumb.png.51cac9688ffe50bbf7fb444eadb0f58c.png

 

 

 

  • Haha 2
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Cause of non-clutch found and adressed.

Houston, we have clutch control again :fing02:

 

IMG_20190721_094125.thumb.jpg.ca11a4b70aaa8bc1ab808e41111beaad.jpg

 

 

IMG_20190721_124841.thumb.jpg.1d86e0ce00eba6b5354fc635381f04de.jpg

 

 

IMG_20190721_130420.thumb.jpg.4c4a9e3bbfd786eaca48e2251f64ba02.jpg

 

 

Fresh hydraulic fluid around, next on the list is the cast iron, inboard brake rotors. They show "50 shades of corrosion"... :tongue:

 

 

Engine starts up after 1 dab on START... Yeah!

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Having refurbed inboard discs on a CBX550F2 back in a previous life. They work quite well when maintained & cast iron has the best co-efficient of friction, with the right pads. Just get rid of all the rust that builds up in there.  

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43 minutes ago, Mohawk said:

.Just get rid of all the rust that builds up in there.  

 Any hints on how best (ok, easiest. Am a lazy b....) way to achieve this?

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3 hours ago, Mohawk said:

Having refurbed inboard discs on a CBX550F2 back in a previous life. They work quite well when maintained & cast iron has the best co-efficient of friction, with the right pads. Just get rid of all the rust that builds up in there.  

I had a CBX too. A ton of unsprung weight and completely inadequate suspension. At 16 I didn't have a clue. lol

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6 hours ago, Dutchy said:

 Any hints on how best (ok, easiest. Am a lazy b....) way to achieve this?

Yeah elbow grease & wire brushes. The discs if the same as CBX are vented, so a close fitting sized steel rod or square file will clean the vents. They can build raised rims outside the pad swept area, which make it difficult to remove the clamper or fit new pads, so just use an angle grinder to take the lips off & a hammer is good for removing scab rust with a few taps. Then a quick wire brush to clean the last of it. You can treat the discs with rust converter & paint dip them with the pad swept area taped off to keep the rust at bay.

 

Point to note they are mounted opposite way to external discs, with no centre, there are three protrusions on the outside of the disc that mount in shimmed location points on the wheel hub. The callipers slide onto the disc from inside the disc. Weird but true. I think the 400 is one side of the CBX setup.

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Took the easy now the engine runs and clutch work. Riding up and down my street (residential area) freed the wheel in no time. Good braking performance (changed the brake fluud) to boot.

 

So I simply cleaned the lot, flushin with plenty brake cleaner

 

IMG_20190723_114906.thumb.jpg.db07b1d6915d1900619e14eb8a2237fd.jpg

 

IMG_20190723_115930.thumb.jpg.4a6489682e23dbd62c051e5afd3fdad3.jpg

 

 

IMG-20190723-WA0006.thumb.jpeg.d7b9215e497ecef0207b063375515b60.jpeg

 

 

With this ok now, changed oil, filter and coolant

 

IMG-20190723-WA0015.thumb.jpeg.0227a5c2f0447b8aabe3bfc3988038e9.jpeg

 

Interestingly, the coolant drain plug is in the lower frame rail (and under the front cilinders)

 

 IMG_20190723_162552.thumb.jpg.dc5036f890aeb9a9e2ee151dec51c43d.jpg

 

The left frame doubles up as "coolant hose":fing02:

 

IMG_20190723_162547.thumb.jpg.6a57fc879bdbc69024d549a17c469ad5.jpg

 

'king hot today with even higher temps in the next 2 days..... 

 

IMG_20190723_115846.thumb.jpg.5fcb82bf451b41407a7157467abda704.jpg

 

 

The altenator and regulator give good values :fing02:, swapped non--adjustable brake lever for one that is. Greased pivot points.

 

Last job for the day....

 

IMG-20190723-WA0009.thumb.jpeg.6f1753071957905d96e89f358232f943.jpeg

 

 

IMG_20190723_131000.thumb.jpg.5abfc37020e9118f6d61f01bb7f7c6c9.jpg

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It is good to have a donor bike at hand...

 

 

Turned out both forks seals were shot. Yes they are leaking after a short spin...

IMG_20190725_111112.thumb.jpg.81b816b1ddadc89f7ff7479094c8d45a.jpg

 

Checked the volume that came out. That should have been a sign as it was way less that prescribed.....

IMG_20190725_103707.thumb.jpg.aeaa1128a6c1301b9a8e1e28e480be8a.jpg

 

 

Greased some pivots points and using a torque wrench  on the TRAC torque arm (as always), one bolt was not right...

AH!

IMG_20190726_111949.thumb.jpg.28190fbd2e920f6fc84e01c8667728c9.jpg

 

 

As I set out to swap the leaking forks with tgat spare ones, I recalled the PO mumbling something about "the bolts". The axle is clamped so I gave the bolts some penetrating oil and a few taps.   They snapped anyway... Good to have a spare set :tongue:

 

 

 

Made in Japan, maintained in Italy 😎

IMG_20190725_153811.jpg

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Cleaned up the tank (no key..) that's showing signs of repair efforts. Upper looks REALLY nice w/o dents, but I suspect it is leaking... So I will flog it....

 

IMG_20190726_134012.thumb.jpg.f3fae78fca7d801711f0a89bfdf69139.jpg

 

 

IMG_20190726_134419.thumb.jpg.fdb7980b9f928a9258017a1ea898315b.jpg

 

 

Looks good eh?

 

 

 

 

Euh.... No....

 

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IMG_20190726_134334.thumb.jpg.a10dcc411556056f55b18992eaf94835.jpg

 

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Tank doesn't look too bad at all compared to some of the dented rusting wrecks you see on Ebay going for stupid prices. Pity you can't get it open. It's what is inside that really matters. AFAIK the VF400 tank is the same as the 84/85 VF500 tank.  A locksmith would be able to pick the lock on the tank if you really needed to get it open.

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Curiosity got the better of me, wanting to see what led to the "spare" engine's demise. Plus wanting to salvage some pars. Cam covers (the one’s on the runner are clarty), starter motor, starter clutch, clutch plates, sensors to name a few.

Braking her up in chunks also makes disposal easier.

 

Discoloration on the seized head

IMG_20190727_112607.thumb.jpg.a931afbac33034f940a77b51e3577aba.jpg

 

IMG_20190727_112839.thumb.jpg.9323d7f28237dbb1a5c748595d879d57.jpg

 

Ah!

IMG_20190727_112857.thumb.jpg.16c0c2bee44bf50ecc589fecc31038fe.jpg

 

IMG_20190727_123110.thumb.jpg.62421dd9d4c2636116fc9bb0b62d522a.jpg

So if the oil light comes on, donot ignore like the PO did.   

 

 

Starter brushes with plenty life left

 

IMG_20190727_115437.thumb.jpg.cc741570ecdb8271230aca320036fc60.jpg

 

 

No blueing on plates

IMG_20190727_130916.thumb.jpg.c9f2dfb124046225a7fcf5e16e284c69.jpg

 

But the basket has seen better days

 

IMG_20190727_131506.thumb.jpg.95db9872106cfc069e0c9ba3de151027.jpg

 

 

Farked

IMG_20190727_131148.thumb.jpg.3c84883e9a21ff99b66f49fdc7b64306.jpg

 

 

IMG_20190727_164929.thumb.jpg.b800bcce9d2384489ad793b86555f5aa.jpg

 

 

Borrowing a "pully" next week

IMG_20190727_160711.thumb.jpg.1528bbc7202917197ce3c7ceb35ce9f7.jpg

 

 

Valves....

IMG_20190727_151512.thumb.jpg.f72147f46a9dcb82da10172b80987781.jpg

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8 hours ago, jeremyr62 said:

Tank doesn't look too bad at all compared to some of the dented rusting wrecks you see on Ebay going for stupid prices. Pity you can't get it open. It's what is inside that really matters. AFAIK the VF400 tank is the same as the 84/85 VF500 tank.  A locksmith would be able to pick the lock on the tank if you really needed to get it open.

 

I will find a way to open her up, inspect, put a old fuel tap in and check....... 

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"Asset stripping 2.0" :tongue:

 

 

IMG_20190801_105825.thumb.jpg.ccd81be993b58fb872dc3144e48649e3.jpg

 

Needed an old skool puller for that, good thing there is an old skool motorcycle shop nearby...

 

 

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Something amiss inside near the oil pump too

 

 

IMG_20190801_132318.thumb.jpg.0e52174cdda3b8a618fa2a9823474019.jpg

 

 

 

Rest in pieces

IMG_20190801_132130.thumb.jpg.c9f8602b1210f6e85ebfad7e1ad5ce43.jpg

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