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Wow, i guess my stock 2001 is nearly impossible to ride.

Nothing wrong with making an almost perfect bike a bit more...perfect. Actually, I do wish that I did not have the almost uncontrollable urge to modify everything that I own. my wife and bank account would be much happier with me.

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Only people who have never ridden a 5th gen with modified suspension would say they don't need it.

It is the biggest improvement to the bike by far.

I have Racetech springs and revalve + dropped 10mm on the front.

JD 929 rear shock raised 15mm.

Staintune pipe, custom seat, K&N filter, CBR1000 coil on plugs, 6th gen radiator, pair valve removal, R&R mod, Hepco & Beker sport rack with hard top box and more.

It is a much better bike.

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I haven't thought of modifying the suspension because the bike is capable of more even in the stock condition than I'll ever be able to get from her,saying that I redone the suspension on the ST1100,front and rear and she's like a different bike completely,handles brilliant with no wallowing,

maybe at some stage I'll consider upgrading the Viffers suspenson.

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I haven't thought of modifying the suspension because the bike is capable of more even in the stock condition than I'll ever be able to get from her,saying that I redone the suspension on the ST1100,front and rear and she's like a different bike completely,handles brilliant with no wallowing,

maybe at some stage I'll consider upgrading the Viffers suspenson.

Saoirse, you gotta do the viffer, my rear ends lovely, if you know what i mean. My "uprated" front mmmm not so happy but better.

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This may be a dumb question, and no, I haven't searched it yet, but what is the purpose of the cbr1000 coils?

Declutter, 1.4lb weight loss, something to do for the mod addicted

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First and foremost is a voltmeter. Then Sargent seat and EBC HH brake pads. After that it's just personal preference. I've got the Harris hugger, Ohlins rear shock, Yoshimura SS2R slip-on, Galfer SS brake lines, powdercoated wheels, GPS mount and wiring, 45 tooth rear sprocket, bicycle computer to use because the speedometer is waaaay off due to the previous mod, HawkeOiler chain oiler, bright LED rear brake lights, Mercedes horn, Blue Sea fuse box, VFRness, PAIR block off plates, K&N air filter, Chinese knock-off shorty brake and clutch levers, Power Commander 3 USB, Helibars, Vibranators, black rear wheel lug nuts, rear wheel hole cover, 2001 VFR non-condom mirrors.

And I think that's about it. For now anyway. :beer:

Just curious if you considered getting a Speedo-Healer?

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This may be a dumb question, and no, I haven't searched it yet, but what is the purpose of the cbr1000 coils?

Declutter, 1.4lb weight loss, something to do for the mod addicted

Ha-ha, ok, thanks! I may be getting a 98 this weekend or so and will be doing plugs on it before TMac, so I didn't know if that would be something worth wile to do while I was in that area. I'll just stick with what its got for now then.

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First and foremost is a voltmeter. Then Sargent seat and EBC HH brake pads. After that it's just personal preference. I've got the Harris hugger, Ohlins rear shock, Yoshimura SS2R slip-on, Galfer SS brake lines, powdercoated wheels, GPS mount and wiring, 45 tooth rear sprocket, bicycle computer to use because the speedometer is waaaay off due to the previous mod, HawkeOiler chain oiler, bright LED rear brake lights, Mercedes horn, Blue Sea fuse box, VFRness, PAIR block off plates, K&N air filter, Chinese knock-off shorty brake and clutch levers, Power Commander 3 USB, Helibars, Vibranators, black rear wheel lug nuts, rear wheel hole cover, 2001 VFR non-condom mirrors.

And I think that's about it. For now anyway. :beer:

Just curious if you considered getting a Speedo-Healer?

Nope, never even considered it. Why spend that much money for something that doesn't do anything any better than a $20 cycle computer. Plus the bicycle computer odometer and speedometer are both correct. You can't do that with a Speedohealer because the bike comes from the factory with the odometer correct and speedometer off by about 5%-7%. So with the Speedohealer you can have a correct speedometer or a correct odometer, not both.

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Only people who have never ridden a 5th gen with modified suspension would say they don't need it.

It is the biggest improvement to the bike by far.

I have Racetech springs and revalve + dropped 10mm on the front.

JD 929 rear shock raised 15mm.

Staintune pipe, custom seat, K&N filter, CBR1000 coil on plugs, 6th gen radiator, pair valve removal, R&R mod, Hepco & Beker sport rack with hard top box and more.

It is a much better bike.

How does the 6th gen rad swap benefit?

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My mods are LSL handlebar conversion kit, Givi rack and JC Whitney trunk,

1 tooth smaller front sprocket, and last but most important, mods to the odometer reading, aka lots of miles. :beer:

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Only people who have never ridden a 5th gen with modified suspension would say they don't need it.

It is the biggest improvement to the bike by far.

I have Racetech springs and revalve + dropped 10mm on the front.

JD 929 rear shock raised 15mm.

Staintune pipe, custom seat, K&N filter, CBR1000 coil on plugs, 6th gen radiator, pair valve removal, R&R mod, Hepco & Beker sport rack with hard top box and more.

It is a much better bike.

How does the 6th gen rad swap benefit?

It has 2 additional rows for a bit more capacity than a 5th gen rad.

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My mods are LSL handlebar conversion kit, Givi rack and JC Whitney trunk,

1 tooth smaller front sprocket, and last but most important, mods to the odometer reading, aka lots of miles. :beer:

How happy are you with the LSL conversion kit? Does it replace all front brake lines?

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My mods are LSL handlebar conversion kit, Givi rack and JC Whitney trunk,

1 tooth smaller front sprocket, and last but most important, mods to the odometer reading, aka lots of miles. :beer:

How happy are you with the LSL conversion kit? It is.. not cheap!

Love it! Have discussed it in other threads.

I sit up more upright, which is more comfortable.

I can ride more miles and feel better at the end.

And an unexpected bonus, my feet reach the ground better (short legs). Had it for a bit over 2 years now, and never changing it back.

At the time the kit was ~$300, well worth it. :cool:

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My mods are LSL handlebar conversion kit, Givi rack and JC Whitney trunk,

1 tooth smaller front sprocket, and last but most important, mods to the odometer reading, aka lots of miles. :beer:

How happy are you with the LSL conversion kit? It is.. not cheap!

Love it! Have discussed it in other threads.

I sit up more upright, which is more comfortable.

I can ride more miles and feel better at the end.

And an unexpected bonus, my feet reach the ground better (short legs). Had it for a bit over 2 years now, and never changing it back.

At the time the kit was ~$300, well worth it. :cool:

I just ninja-edited my post! Does it include all new front brake lines? That makes it better value..

I'll search for your posts now

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No, uses all the old lines. That's why it is relatively cheap, if you look at kits for other bikes. :cool:

You can also roll your own, people have done that. That should be cheaper, just more work. :sleep:

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No, uses all the old lines. That's why it is relatively cheap, if you look at kits for other bikes. :cool:

You can also roll your own, people have done that. That should be cheaper, just more work. :sleep:

Ah ok. In their videos they say "Most kits include a new clutch and brake line". I think the hardest thing with DIY would be finding a way to attach the new bars to the triple clamp!

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  • 1 year later...

Things i've found to have seriously improved the enjoyment / comfort of the bike:

  • Genmar bar risers - Easy to fit, no mods required. £100. Takes 5 mins.
  • Stomp tank grips (use the universal large, they fit) - Now you can grip the tank with your knees and take a lot of weight off your wrists and arms - Takes less than 20 mins to install - £40
  • LED light in the front parking/side light - Makes a good daytime running light - 1 min install - £1.60 - Link (this type fits properly)
  • A new screen - For me, a lower screen was preferable as most will move airflow up from the default shoulder/neck area, and that caused me issues. - £50+ - 5 min install
  • Adjustable levers - Stock lever adjustment is utter shit - £80+ - 5 min install
  • A fruity exhaust - We all like a bit of noise, and this one not only looks good, is affordable, is easy to fit, but has also vastly reduced the number of half-asleep pedestrians walking out in front of me, and made filtering feel much safer and more vehicles move for me. - £200 - 10 min install
  • Oxford heated grips - Easy to install - 30 mins if you want it neat and tidy - £80
  • Cut out under-seat tabs - I can now store things under there: A lock, or tools and some minor spares, bungee cords and so on. 10 mins
  • R&G crash bungs / R&G bar ends, these (couldn't find the link) for the front, these for the rear. Because panels are RARE and EXPENSIVE. About £200 all in - 1hr+
  • Better headlight bulbs. These fit with no mods, are much better than stock. Whiter light, better range and width. - £15 - 10 mins
  • Airhorn. Because meep meep is useless. Especially on the motorway where it can't be heard at all. HRRRRRRNK works much better. £35 - 1hr
  • EBC FA261HH pads all round
  • Tyres to preference. I like Pilot Road 4s, because i ride all year, and in all weather.


Planned items:

  • Custom seat with comfort butt padding and a grove for said butt to rest in. Grippy covering, too.
  • Some kind of footpeg lowering
  • LED brake light bulbs

 

 

I imagine there'll be more if i keep it beyond next year. But i'd like to sell it before it hits 40,000 miles, and i've recently broken past 30k and fully expect to hit 35k by this time next year.

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helli....where did you mount the horn and pump? They're not small and there's not much room under the front fairings.

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