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1998 Winter Overhaul


TNRabbit

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Putting everything back together and it was having some trouble installing the access panel on the right side above the rearset. that's when I noticed the rearset was bent in several places and the swingarrm bolt was only finger tight! I looked up the torque and it's supposed to be 93 ft bs... it was more like 9.3 inch lbs~

I can't emphasize enough the importance of routinely checking all bolts, nuts, etc. on your bike. I would have never known it was like that had I not noticed the rearset was bent.

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It's actually starting to look like a BIKE again!post-27845-0-02245600-1431289227.jpg

Note to self: make sure ALL the hoses & wiring are properly routed before tightening the fork pinch bolts, installing the wheel & installing the brake system~

New Vibranators & grips:

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Wheel looks great on the bike!

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+1 on checking the wiring routing....

That rim looks like the one I had on my '89 Lemans :-)

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something is wrong. When I turn on the ignition I don't get the priming from the fuel pump and when I hit the starter all I get is a reay click behind the instrument panel. Also the clock is completely blank although the instrument lights work.... still haven't identified that mystery plug.

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Bump.

Also, this connector is killing me...it comes from under the throttle bodies.....LORD PLEASE don't let it be a connector under there!

I'm in a serious time crunch and have to leave for 8 days tomorrow night....post-27845-0-98742500-1431717496.jpgpost-27845-0-69457700-1431717541.jpgpost-27845-0-48427200-1431717563.jpg

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MAP? Right rear of air box on the underside, if it is. Should be reachable with everything in place, tank up.

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Already in place^^^

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I'm looking at page 5-54 of the FSM - there's a gray connector that looks very much like that which connects to the bypass control solenoid - just in front of the fuel pressure regulator. It's difficult to be sure from the photo. If that's it, you'd have to route the wire to the opposite side of the hose leading out of the valve cover.

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Son of a bitch! That was it~ Thank you!

I only had to pop the back half of the throttle bodies off pull it through and poke it out the other side. Not so bad...putting it back together now.

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I tracked it down to the starter relay. Its bad. I've got 13.15 volts on the battery side of it and nothing on the fuse side with the ignition on.

anybody know where to get a starter relay at 4 p.m. on a Saturday afternoon?

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....it was divine intervention that I had to go back into the throttle bodies because I left all four screws that hold the throttle body on completely loose~

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Son of a bitch! That was it~ Thank you!

I only had to pop the back half of the throttle bodies off pull it through and poke it out the other side. Not so bad...putting it back together now.

:cheerleader:

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I've got mine mounted in the exact same place, but it's wired into the power leaving the ignition keyswitch, so it automatically goes on and off whenever you start the bike.

No possibility of forgetting it then and draining the battery you're trying to monitor!

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I've got mine mounted in the exact same place, but it's wired into the power leaving the ignition keyswitch, so it automatically goes on and off whenever you start the bike.

No possibility of forgetting it then and draining the battery you're trying to monitor!

I was going to do that, but I wanted to be able to check it with the ignition off. Also, it's wired directly to the battery so I have the best indication. I've noticed if I connect thru another system (tail light, for example) that it can read up to 1 full volt less due to aging wiring/corrosion between connectors,grounds, etc.

Thhis volt meter pulls so little amperage it can be on for a couple weeks without any major affect on the battery.

Now that's nice. Best one I've seen.

Thanks!

I picked up those switches on amazon--10 for $8.00! Same for the volt meter, amazon for @ $8.00 (only 1).

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I cut a section from a motor oil jug & made a flap extension to cover the shock & protect it from debris brought up by the rear wheel.

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I was going to do that, but I wanted to be able to check it with the ignition off. Also, it's wired directly to the battery so I have the best indication. I've noticed if I connect thru another system (tail light, for example) that it can read up to 1 full volt less due to aging wiring/corrosion between connectors,grounds, etc.

Yes, that is the downside. I checked mine with a multimeter direct to the battery and I see about 0.6 volt less the way mine is wired in.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Shit. I got the starter solenoid installed & now every time I put a 30 amp fuse in the main fuse holder it blows immediately. Time to start testing wiring with the multimeter.

This is SERIOUSLY eating into my summer riding.... :-(

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  • 2 months later...

Got a replacement wiring harness & swapped it out this weekend. 90% done but I'm going to be out of town all week for work so won't be able to finish until next week....

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