Member Contributer gig Posted December 4, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted December 4, 2014 I previously had pair valve removed and caped, caps have dried out over time. I just received block off plates and seems they would seal better against reed gaskets if left in, then if reeds were removed, Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VFROZ Posted December 4, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted December 4, 2014 No need to remove reeds. I agree, I left them as they seem to seal better with them in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted December 4, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted December 4, 2014 Leave the reed gaskets in. Some pics as fyi When you first crack it open this is what you see. Unscrew carefully the small screw holding the reed valve. Slip out the reed valves.... Put the plate back Bolt on cover plate..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer expvet Posted February 1, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted February 1, 2016 Just to be 100.1% sure, I installed my Mellodude PAIR rear block off plate (will do front next week) and as in the first pic left the plate with the holes in, left 4 of the the components in the second pic out and as in pic 3 put the plates with the rubber gaskets on, then installed the PAIR blockoff plate. My question is with pic 2, these upper 4 copper colored plates above the gasket plate stay out, correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted February 1, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted February 1, 2016 Yes those are the reed valves leave them out . Your lucky all the screws broke off on mine . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer expvet Posted February 1, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted February 1, 2016 I used a mini vice grip and they came out pretty easy. No way they were coming out with a philips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer HighSideNZ Posted February 1, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted February 1, 2016 If you pull the plates out completely and turn them upside down you will find that the thread on the screws have been split so as they cannot come loose. Grind the thread that is sticking out off, and the screws come out easy. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer FJ12Ryder Posted February 1, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted February 1, 2016 I left mine together and filed the heads of the screws down until they didn't interfere with the plates. i also filed the plates completely flat as they had a couple high spots. Probably not an issue, but what the heck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sweeper Posted February 2, 2016 Share Posted February 2, 2016 If you grind/file the screw and don't remove it, you run the risk of it coming out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer FJ12Ryder Posted February 2, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted February 2, 2016 Not really since you only remove some of the screw head. It doesn't take very much to keep them from interfering. And since you take off only enough to clear the plates, there isn't enough room for the screws to back out and come loose. When I installed my plates I could fit a .002 shim stock between the plates and the mounting surface. Even after ensuring the plates were flat I still had clearance, indicating the mounting surface wasn't 100% flat. That was when I put the reed valves back in so the rubber would seal any imperfections. And I didn't want to booger them up just in case I wanted to put everything back to stock if I didn't like the results. I do like the results and am glad I did it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sweeper Posted February 2, 2016 Share Posted February 2, 2016 Not really since you only remove some of the screw head. It doesn't take very much to keep them from interfering. And since you take off only enough to clear the plates, there isn't enough room for the screws to back out and come loose. When I installed my plates I could fit a .002 shim stock between the plates and the mounting surface. Even after ensuring the plates were flat I still had clearance, indicating the mounting surface wasn't 100% flat. That was when I put the reed valves back in so the rubber would seal any imperfections. And I didn't want to booger them up just in case I wanted to put everything back to stock if I didn't like the results. I do like the results and am glad I did it. O I C. I had visions of the screws heads ground all the way off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer FJ12Ryder Posted February 2, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted February 2, 2016 Not at all. In fact you can still see the slots in the screwheads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted February 2, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted February 2, 2016 For the halibut, I still have plenty left.... http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/78878-pair-valve-plates-for-5th-6th-gens/page-2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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