Member Contributer badelman Posted October 14, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted October 14, 2014 Hey everyone! Went to start my VFR this morning and as I'm turning the key on zero, zip, nada! No noise from the injectors, no running or dash lights. It is currently my only transportation. I thank god this didn't happen when I was on the road!! I took the battery down to Autozone and it tested good. I have a green translucent fuse to the right of the battery and it's fine. I'm at 28,900 miles at this point and currently there are really no mods that tie into the battery to speak of. I'm, not a mechanic but I can follow instruction and review pictures for info.. I am aware of many electrical issues with these bikes. If anyone can refer me to a troubleshooting protocol or some step by step troubleshooting I would be much obliged! P.S. I've smelled a funny burning smell (hair like?plastic?) when on the road sitting at lights on occasion but dismissed this as being a zip tie I have on the lower cowl by the pipes. Barry, Austin TX Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer dutchinterceptor Posted October 14, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted October 14, 2014 Is the clock working? I'd check the wiring/starter relay/etc next to battery for crispiness or shorting. There are two main fuses, one on top of the relay and the other inside a small plastic connector looking thing. Next you'll want to pull the right lower fairing and check the connectors coming from the R/R mounted at the front right of your frame. The connectors will be just above the right radiator. The wiring from the R/R to the connector is yellow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted October 14, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted October 14, 2014 And then go ahead and order a stator and R\R. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer badelman Posted October 14, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted October 14, 2014 Is the clock working? I'd check the wiring/starter relay/etc next to battery for crispiness or shorting. There are two main fuses, one on top of the relay and the other inside a small plastic connector looking thing. Next you'll want to pull the right lower fairing and check the connectors coming from the R/R mounted at the front right of your frame. The connectors will be just above the right radiator. The wiring from the R/R to the connector is yellow. The clock is working. Does that rule anything out? What is the R/R?? And then go ahead and order a stator and R\R. What is the R/R? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted October 14, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted October 14, 2014 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted October 14, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted October 14, 2014 Badelman -- well unless you wanna spend bucks at the dealer, the first thing to do is go buy a multimeter, they are near everywhere, autozone, harbor freight, etc. Once you got that, the troups here can start pointing what's next. Welcome to the wonderful world of VFR electrics. The system is a 4 legged stool, battery, harness/connectors, stator, R/R. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted October 14, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted October 14, 2014 I guess this and other recent posts dispel the notion that Honda "fixed it" with the wiring changes from 2006 forward (on 6th gens) . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer badelman Posted October 14, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted October 14, 2014 I'll get a multimeter tomorrow. Don't really know how to use one but I will read about. At what points do I check (At battery, harness/connectors, stator, R/R (What's RR?)?) and what do I hold the black one on and then the red? Thanks!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted October 14, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted October 14, 2014 (What's RR?) Regulator/Rectifier We'll walk you thru using a multimeter. Can you touch two index fingers together? You're qualifiied... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer badelman Posted October 14, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted October 14, 2014 (What's RR?) Regulator/Rectifier We'll walk you thru using a multimeter. Can you touch two index fingers together? You're qualifiied... Thanks for the encouragement Mello! OK, got the multimeter from Autozone (detail here).. What's the next step? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted October 14, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted October 14, 2014 So lets backtrack and see where you are at. Some get ready steps. -- The bike is totally dead now or the fuel pump comes on at key/kill switch on? -- Locate the fuse box and the starter relay/fuse. -- Will a 6th gen guy jump in on this one, I'm mostly a 5th gen guy. -- Look for blown fuses, note where they are. Find replacements. --- Get the multmeter out --- Set on DC volts, my guess there is couple selections to set it at. Go for 20ish..---what is the battery volts? --- Red on positive, Black on negative. --- Pull right side body panel..... --- You will see near up front on the frame a big ass finned gray box - that is the R/R. - Find the 3 yellow wires from that going to the rear and find the connector that the yellow wires go to. -- Pull apart and see what it looks like. Thats a start, we'll go from there. If you have a camera to take an occasional pic, that would be helpful. md Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer carlgustav Posted October 14, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted October 14, 2014 There is a fuse box under a fairing panel that attaches to the right side of the instrument cluster trim panel, and to the 'nose cowl'. I think there are 2 of the allen screws and one push-pin fastener involved. This little panel is a PITA to pull off, you feel like you're going to break something getting it loose. I'm @ work and going by memory, but I also have the '07 RWB model, and that's where my fuse box (may not be the only one) is. It's also up where the diagnostic connector is, above & in front of the R/R. Never had to look for the starter solenoid, so I can't help locate it ... ACE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer badelman Posted October 14, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted October 14, 2014 Yes.. bike is totally dead except the clock on the dash is working. I drove it two days ago with zero issues. I'll be able to work on it tonight and I will post updates feverishly! Thx guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer badelman Posted October 15, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted October 15, 2014 Ok, got the seat off. Battery is a YTX9-BS. It says on the top STD: 0.9A X 5~10h or QUICK: 4.0AX1.0h. Also, I got the multimeter black plugged into the COM hole and the red plugged into mA BAT hole with the ohm shape. There is another hole labeled DC 10A. Should I have the black in that one instead? Also, on the multimeter.. theres a DCV V section (goes from 200m then 2,20,200 and 500) and a small section that just says DC10A. Which one should I switch to? I feel dumber than a stump on this stuff! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted October 15, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted October 15, 2014 https://www. electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf Try this it mite save you a lot time . http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/diagnosis-center/fault-finding-guide Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer badelman Posted October 15, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted October 15, 2014 https://www. electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf Try this it mite save you a lot time . http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/diagnosis-center/fault-finding-guide The fault finding diagram is awesome and even helpful with setting up the multimeter although I'm still confused as to which hole on the multimeter I plug the red lead into! Which one?? Also a little confused about what I can and cannot do on the diagram with the engine not starting or vfr not turning on at all. I do see the section regarding turning the bike off but can I do all tests at the start without the bile being on at all? Should I at least turn the key on even though nothing happens? Thx! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer pres589 Posted October 15, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted October 15, 2014 Generally you never use the Amp reading side of a voltage/ohm meter. For just about anything anyone here will recommend, you want to have the red lead to a Voltage port on the meter. Black to COM is correct for operating the meter. Set the DVOM for 20V DC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted October 15, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted October 15, 2014 Here a pic that a member posted. Guess it really does not show the charging system but if it happens not to be the charging system it's good to have ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted October 15, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted October 15, 2014 https://www. electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf Try this it mite save you a lot time . http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/diagnosis-center/fault-finding-guide The fault finding diagram is awesome and even helpful with setting up the multimeter although I'm still confused as to which hole on the multimeter I plug the red lead into! Which one?? Also a little confused about what I can and cannot do on the diagram with the engine not starting or vfr not turning on at all. I do see the section regarding turning the bike off but can I do all tests at the start without the bile being on at all? Should I at least turn the key on even though nothing happens? Thx! Badelman, I'm gonna go out on a limb and say put the red lead on the right port on your Voltmeter. Mine has -- V(ohm)mA on that port, the 10A max is the other one. ------ -The trouble chart is not gonna help at this point, I like a simpler test procedure. But first you have to get it to run. Here a pic that a member posted. Guess it really does not show the charging system but if it happens not to be the charging system it's good to have ! Nice pic Switch, that 'll help.... --- Question for the Brain trust... isnt a battery YTX9-BS damn small for the bike? Shouldnt it be something like YTX12 OR YTX14? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer badelman Posted October 15, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted October 15, 2014 Here a pic that a member posted. Guess it really does not show the charging system but if it happens not to be the charging system it's good to have ! Thanks Switch! Generally you never use the Amp reading side of a voltage/ohm meter. For just about anything anyone here will recommend, you want to have the red lead to a Voltage port on the meter. Black to COM is correct for operating the meter. Set the DVOM for 20V DC. Thank Pres.. This is helpful. I dont have DVOM but think it may be the same as DCV V? https://www. electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf Try this it mite save you a lot time . http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/diagnosis-center/fault-finding-guide The fault finding diagram is awesome and even helpful with setting up the multimeter although I'm still confused as to which hole on the multimeter I plug the red lead into! Which one?? Also a little confused about what I can and cannot do on the diagram with the engine not starting or vfr not turning on at all. I do see the section regarding turning the bike off but can I do all tests at the start without the bile being on at all? Should I at least turn the key on even though nothing happens? Thx! Badelman, I'm gonna go out on a limb and say put the red lead on the right port on your Voltmeter. Mine has -- V(ohm)mA on that port, the 10A max is the other one. ------ -The trouble chart is not gonna help at this point, I like a simpler test procedure. But first you have to get it to run. Here a pic that a member posted. Guess it really does not show the charging system but if it happens not to be the charging system it's good to have ! Nice pic Switch, that 'll help.... --- Question for the Brain trust... isnt a battery YTX9-BS damn small for the bike? Shouldnt it be something like YTX12 OR YTX14? Mello, ok.. I got the red lead in V(ohm)mA BAT (right port) and black lead in the COM port. I'll turn the switch to DCV V 20 for testing. Where to go next? You say I have to get the bike running first?? Where to start? Switch, I don't understand your diagram yet but sure it will start to make sense once I start digging in! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer dutchinterceptor Posted October 15, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted October 15, 2014 Seems like somebody on here had an issue like this where their starter switch was stuck. It would be easy enough to check that by separating the switch unit and hit it with a bit of wd-40 or contact cleaner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted October 15, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted October 15, 2014 I'm with mello dude - that YTX9-BS is the wrong battery for the bike. Yuasa lists it at 120 CCA (cold cranking amps). The factory battery is YTZ-12 which is 210 CCA. At its peak what you have is barely adequate so it may be just too tired to do much more than run the clock. If it were me I would get a fresh battery of the correct type installed before I went any further. You may find that you just have a very weak battery. Since you have the meter (and set to 20v DC), place the leads on the terminals (red to +) and see what you get. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer deltaboxii Posted October 15, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted October 15, 2014 My clock kept resetting when my battery was going dead on my '07. If yours is doing that, I would look at the battery again. I always start with the easy stuff. You did mention that Autozone checked it, but just to be safe... besides I agree with Cogswell and Mello Dude that the YTZ-12 is the way to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted October 15, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted October 15, 2014 I'm with mello dude - that YTX9-BS is the wrong battery for the bike. Yuasa lists it at 120 CCA (cold cranking amps). The factory battery is YTZ-12 which is 210 CCA. At its peak what you have is barely adequate so it may be just too tired to do much more than run the clock. If it were me I would get a fresh battery of the correct type installed before I went any further. You may find that you just have a very weak battery. Since you have the meter (and set to 20v DC), place the leads on the terminals (red to +) and see what you get. I'm with ya Cogswell, the battery size caught my eye imediately...... Badelman, sorry man, go get a YTZ - 12 or 14 battery. - Good point Dutch on the the switch unit.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer badelman Posted October 15, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted October 15, 2014 I'm with mello dude - that YTX9-BS is the wrong battery for the bike. Yuasa lists it at 120 CCA (cold cranking amps). The factory battery is YTZ-12 which is 210 CCA. At its peak what you have is barely adequate so it may be just too tired to do much more than run the clock. If it were me I would get a fresh battery of the correct type installed before I went any further. You may find that you just have a very weak battery. Since you have the meter (and set to 20v DC), place the leads on the terminals (red to +) and see what you get. I'm with ya Cogswell, the battery size caught my eye imediately...... Badelman, sorry man, go get a YTZ - 12 or 14 battery. - Good point Dutch on the the switch unit.... I used the multimeter on the battery and got between 12.60 and 12.61. How does this look? Group consensus works for me I can still replace the battery but does it look to be the immediate issue or cause of dead bike even though it tested good at the Autozone with this reading? Are you thinking that it will just start right up after being replaced? A little history on the battery: The guy I bought it from put this battery in new just before I bought the Viffer from him. I asked if anything was wrong before that or if there was a reason to change the battery and he said .....nope. I believed him as I do go riding with the guy, he lives close and has about 6 other bikes. P.S. Clock is not resetting.. Per starter switch being stuck: Do I just dismantle the starter switch to see if it's stuck? Wouldn't at least the running lights come on or something even IF it is the issue (don't recall what comes on and what doesn't or shouldn't). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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