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Rovari

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Hello Everyone,

Thought I would share my project with you and hope that you can benefit from some of the things I will be doing. I would also ask that if you have any input or suggestions please feel free to comment.

I recently picked up a 1999 VFR800 with only 10,000km for $1400.00. Unfortunately the previous owner laid it down on the left side and then parked it for 9-10 years outside under a BBQ cover. It did start and ran a little rough, I am hoping that a new set of plugs and fuel injector cleaning will help.

I was fortunate that a gentleman purchased this from the BBQ cover guy and spent some time going over the bike. He ordered some parts did some cleaning and then did not have time to complete the project.

So...to start, the bike needs a lot of TLC:

I have already started some of the work listed below and will post pictures following this intro.

- The body will require some work, front fairing scraped left side, left signal light needs to be replaced, rear seat cowl cracked and damaged left side, left engine cover has a broken mount and the gas tank has a baseball sized dent. Some body filler, plastic weld, elbow grease and a fresh coat of paint will be needed...I have considered a new set although can't justify $700.00 for the set.

- Front and Rear Brake calipers are stiff, so I will do a rebuild or at least strip them down, inspect and reassemble. The brake fluid is dark but not milky or clumpy, will flush all the fluid

- The steering stem is a little rough so I will inspect and replace bearings if needed

- Front and rear rims are oxidizing and will need to be stripped and powder coated

- Front tire needs to be replaced, rear tire is questionable and may replace due to the age...no cracks visible and decent tread..

- Brake rotors do not have any grooves but are colored from pad wear...will try to sand them or use scotch brite pads to shine them up...any suggestions?

- Forks have some spot rust on the chrome tubes but it doesn't look like any pitting, forks are not leaking but dust seals are cracked from age will need to be replaced, Fork bottoms are oxidized and need to be repainted

- Gauge faces are cloudy from sitting for so long. Will try polishing with headlight restore kit

- Radiator hose clamps are rusted - I will replace all of them ..just for looks :-), hoses look OK and just need a good cleaning

- Radiator fluid is clean, although it's probably a good idea to flush the system..was considering to remove the water pump to inspect..still undecided

- Rear axle and chain tensioner assembly have some corrosion so I will strip and clean the whole assembly while I have it apart

Some Parts I already ordered..(wow!! Amazing how the dollars add up) :sad:

- Mirrors L&R

- Gas cap

- Brake Pads

- Brake and clutch levers

- Standard Headlight bulbs

- handle grips

- full bolt kit for body panels

- Zero Gravity double bubble wind screen

- Front Wheel bearings and seals

- Steering stem bearing and seal kit (All Balls)

- Fork seal kit

- Gas tank Seals

- Battery

- Front and Rear tires - Pirelli Diablo

- Mightyvac Brake Bleeder

- Plastifix (Plastic weld for fairings)

- new brake and clutch master cylinders (incl new levers)

- new chain

- all new brake line seals and new bleeders

- new wheel nuts

- new nuts for rear sprocket

- new axle nut and plastic plug

- dust seals for swing arm, dog bone and rear shock

- water pump seal

- new cush drive rubbers

- clutch slave seal kit

- new start/stop and headlight / horn switches

- new gas tank rubbers

- new turn signal and brake bulbs

- fork stop clips

- fork protectors

- all new dust seals for rear hub

- new bolts for brake calipers

- new spark plugs

- complete new decal set for tank, fairings and rear cowl

- new gear shift lever and rubber

- new coolant reservoir

- new clutch slave cylinder

- new leather stitched seat cover

- new upper front stay (oops, looked like it was bent)

- crankcase gasket

- new bar ends

- new rubber for footpegs

- new oil filter

- new collars and pin bolts for foot pegs (sliders)

- new rear brake switch and rear brake springs

-

If you have any suggestions or comments please share them

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I see decals on eBay a lot:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VFR-800i-Interceptor-1999-complete-decals-stickers-graphics-kit-adhesivi-800-set-/200979390301?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ecb4e1f5d&vxp=mtr

I know that the OEM decals are color-coded to match the factory paint in terms of the "background" on my 2000. These might be clear to allow the paint color to show through. Check with the seller to know for sure.

There's decals for the 2000 bikes as well - slightly different look to them but very similar.

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I decided to start with the front end and work my way back.

Removed the forks and steering assembly. As per the pics you can see that the bearings are shot. I upgraded them to the All Balls upgrade kit which uses tapered bearings instead of OEM ball bearings. The old races were not difficult to knock out, just used a long screwdriver and a hammer. Installing the new races was also quite easy, I used the old races and a hammer with a short drift.

The forks were rough and needed a new paint job. I sanded them down using a 320 grit and used acetone to remove any grease or dust. I found a good match for paint "Rustoleum Hammered Silver" available in Canada at any big box store.


http://www.gomototrip.com/motocycle-fairings/vfr800-1998-2001/

You can try these guys for plastic but I have no experience with them .

Thanks Switchblade, I will take a look..appreciate it


I see decals on eBay a lot:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VFR-800i-Interceptor-1999-complete-decals-stickers-graphics-kit-adhesivi-800-set-/200979390301?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ecb4e1f5d&vxp=mtr

I know that the OEM decals are color-coded to match the factory paint in terms of the "background" on my 2000. These might be clear to allow the paint color to show through. Check with the seller to know for sure.

There's decals for the 2000 bikes as well - slightly different look to them but very similar.

Thanks Ember, I have seen a few online as well, thanks for the link.

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Now moving on to the brakes.

I removed both calipers, sprayed them down with brake cleaner and popped the pistons with some compressed air. (only 20 psi) The pistons look good with minimal corrosion on the top edges. I used some 0000 steel wool to remove any spots and polished them with a rag. The Piston Seals and Dust seals are in great shape. I can't justify spending 80.00 plus shipping for 12 pieces of rubber so I will be reusing them. Fluid was dark but still clear with no clumps. The mounting bracket was black and even after scrubbing it was still black (wasted elbow grease) I ended up using a Dremel with a small wire wheel to remove all the dirt and painted it with a hammered silver paint. (this should make it easier to clean in the future)

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Will that paint hold up to brake cleaner ?

Good point Checksix, I hope it does hold up, I will know soon enough as I need to flush again before re installing.

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Thank you all for your comments. :beer:.

Had time to clean up the right front caliper and fortunately the pistons and seals are in great shape so I will reuse them. Also cleaned and painted the caliper support to match the left side. Hope it will stand up to any brake heat and brake cleaner.

Installed the dust seals on the forks. Removed the rear wheel so I can have it powder coated along with the front and also planned to replace both tires. Rear rotor is rusty but no grooves so it can be cleaned up. I am adding the removal of the rear axle and chain adjuster to my list.

Also removed the rear caliper and the pads are completely rusted, I was able to push the pistons in so it looks promising...didn't feel like working on another caliper today... :wacko:

I added some pics of the fairing support and steering stem painted along with the right caliper support.

Enjoy :smile2:

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I have some of the body panels that you need everything except a gas tank ,can paint it to any colour you want .

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Should you require the stock VFR decal for the lower front cowls I have a set that are yours for the asking. One caveat would be that decals do have the yellow background color. I ordered them for my bike originally from an OEM supplier and realized after they arrived that they were for a yellow bike. If you're interested just shoot me a PM with your address and I will send them off to you. I can also send you a photo of the decal set if you like. Since I ended up having a local vinyl shop scan the decal and making a replacement for me I have no real use for the old ones.

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Thank you Gmtech94 and zoom zoom for your offers. I have sent you both a PM.

Appreciate your kudos taglicious, I'm sure if you look hard enough under some BBQ covers you might find your project..:-)

I need to pull the tires off the rims tonight so they can be powder coated and then tackle the rear caliper..and who knows maybe some painting as well...will provide an update later..happy VFR-ing :biggrin:

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Make sure the powder coaters understand NOT to coat the rear hub mounting surfaces, the front brake rotor mounting surfaces, and the bearing ID's

Yea you can tell the guy who writes up your order, then the flunky in the back that sprays the powder does it wrong anyhow.....

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Make sure the powder coaters understand NOT to coat the rear hub mounting surfaces, the front brake rotor mounting surfaces, and the bearing ID's

Yea you can tell the guy who writes up your order, then the flunky in the back that sprays the powder does it wrong anyhow.....

Thank you veefer, yes I agree and had planned on taping things off before bringing them to the powder coater. I guess I now have to hope the guy in the back doesn't peel the tape off...lol

Unfortunately, breaking beads is not as easy as the you tube videos...I tried an eight foot 2x4 and a block of wood...all I did was raise my 400lb workbench a few times. I will have to get these removed by a pro :wacko:

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Unfortunately, breaking beads is not as easy as the you tube videos...I tried an eight foot 2x4 and a block of wood...all I did was raise my 400lb workbench a few times. I will have to get these removed by a pro :wacko:

Try this: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/79443-tire-changing-for-cheapskates/

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20140704 092233

This is what I use, I have tried 2x4's and they would not work for me so I purchased two to these 600lbs of pressure each :cheerleader: The first time it will take a bit to get the hang of it but after that 5 mins & you will have the new rubber on! I have changed about 4 or 5 sets this way now.

If you have any further ?'s let me know

Gary

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This is what I use, I have tried 2x4's and they would not work for me so I purchased two to these 600lbs of pressure each :cheerleader: The first time it will take a bit to get the hang of it but after that 5 mins & you will have the new rubber on! I have changed about 4 or 5 sets this way now.

If you have any further ?'s let me know

Gary

Unfortunately, breaking beads is not as easy as the you tube videos...I tried an eight foot 2x4 and a block of wood...all I did was raise my 400lb workbench a few times. I will have to get these removed by a pro :wacko:

Try this: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/79443-tire-changing-for-cheapskates/

Thanks guys, really appreciate your tips :woohoo: I was going to double up a 2x4 and give the "checksix method" another try although I do have some heavy duty clamps I use for woodworking...I will give the "v-fore method" a try and let you know how it works out...thanks again.

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- Brake rotors do not have any grooves but are colored from pad wear...will try to sand them or use scotch brite pads to shine them up...any suggestions?

Suggestion: Don't.

The brake rotor is supposed to be discolored. That's the brake pad transfer material. It indicates the pad was properly bedded into the rotor.

You should leave it alone unless you're changing brake pad compounds, in which case, you should remove it before bedding the new pads into the rotors.

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Looks like a great project. Shame that the previous owner didn't at least try to leave the bike in better shape for the next guy.

Well, you should have seen it when I got it ...

Anyway, doing a great job! Looking forward to following this to the end.

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- Brake rotors do not have any grooves but are colored from pad wear...will try to sand them or use scotch brite pads to shine them up...any suggestions?

Suggestion: Don't.

The brake rotor is supposed to be discolored. That's the brake pad transfer material. It indicates the pad was properly bedded into the rotor.

You should leave it alone unless you're changing brake pad compounds, in which case, you should remove it before bedding the new pads into the rotors.

I would definately give the rotors a light rub with 1200gritt or scourer just to give a decent surface for new pads. You don't want them shiny or uneven just a nice rough surface.

Also pull apart that filter in the front caliper mount master cylinder and clean it good an proper, I showed it in my rebuild thread. Be gentle with it as I couldn't find it as a spare part.

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Please find me a project like this locally ;-) woohoo kudos great work.

Here you go :goofy:

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Great work Rovari!

LOL, nice BBQ :laugh: Thank you Phantom!

Looks like a great project. Shame that the previous owner didn't at least try to leave the bike in better shape for the next guy.

Well, you should have seen it when I got it ...

Anyway, doing a great job! Looking forward to following this to the end.

Thank you for the work you did and sourcing the parts B4V4!! You gave me a good head start. Had a crazy week, wife's birthday, fridge died and leaves fell from the trees :wacko:. I will be getting back into the project this weekend. Most of the parts have arrived...

- Brake rotors do not have any grooves but are colored from pad wear...will try to sand them or use scotch brite pads to shine them up...any suggestions?

Suggestion: Don't.

The brake rotor is supposed to be discolored. That's the brake pad transfer material. It indicates the pad was properly bedded into the rotor.

You should leave it alone unless you're changing brake pad compounds, in which case, you should remove it before bedding the new pads into the rotors.

I would definately give the rotors a light rub with 1200gritt or scourer just to give a decent surface for new pads. You don't want them shiny or uneven just a nice rough surface.

Also pull apart that filter in the front caliper mount master cylinder and clean it good an proper, I showed it in my rebuild thread. Be gentle with it as I couldn't find it as a spare part.

Thanks for the advice Nerdy and aokman...I will be replacing the brake pads and wanted to have a good clean surface for the new pads to bed in. I will try a couple of different options and post the results.

This is what I use, I have tried 2x4's and they would not work for me so I purchased two to these 600lbs of pressure each :cheerleader: The first time it will take a bit to get the hang of it but after that 5 mins & you will have the new rubber on! I have changed about 4 or 5 sets this way now.

If you have any further ?'s let me know

Gary

Unfortunately, breaking beads is not as easy as the you tube videos...I tried an eight foot 2x4 and a block of wood...all I did was raise my 400lb workbench a few times. I will have to get these removed by a pro :wacko:

Try this: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/79443-tire-changing-for-cheapskates/

Thanks guys, really appreciate your tips :woohoo: I was going to double up a 2x4 and give the "checksix method" another try although I do have some heavy duty clamps I use for woodworking...I will give the "v-fore method" a try and let you know how it works out...thanks again.

I tried the clamps and broke the bead..thanks for the tip. I don't have the rim protectors or tire removal tools so I found a mobile guy to remove the tires, once I have the rims back he will return to install the new tires and balance.

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