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Rc45 Turbo Rc46 Turbo


Guest wargen

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And here is more Picture comming, First one is electric coming in, about 18 sensors are getting wired in, about 12 outgoing relays and servo, 4 channels to spark and 4 channels for injectors. even fronlight is controlled by ECU.


And here is pipes going to and from turbo, fck what a jobb to get the the two cylinder back into turbo, i do have nightmare still about that


And here is pressure pipes for inlett, the round Little pipe with all rubber hose going(middle of Picture) in is a collector for all inlets taken right after the inlett rubber, it works like softener for the wacumpuls when butterflys are Close for softer Readings for MAP sensor to ECU, yea, the ALU welding is not so perfect but it is working


Picture


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Edited by wargen
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  • 6 months later...
  • 1 month later...

That turbo housing directly under the saddle should make for some great heat during cold weather rides ....warm days ummmmm maybe some asbestos underwear would help keep the family jewels from baking... I had lots of experience with turbo charging while racing my '87 Buick GN (4.1Stage 1) ..under the hood heat was very high, and eventually I found a thermal blanket/shroud that fit like a glove over the casting, plus I applied thermal wrap tape over the inlet and exhaust pipes...caution with any wrappings on the pipes ....check under the wrapping often as the thermal tape holds moisture against the pipes and can ruin them quickly ...not so much of problem on the turbo housing as the casting is less prone to corroding through. Ceramic coatings for heat shielding have come a long ways, are very efficient and visually much neater.

Great project you are doing ... are dyno tests in the budget ??

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  • 10 months later...
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I don't have time to read six pages of posts but when I saw the title to this thread, it immediately made me think of an incident that happened a few years ago in the midwest.

A police helicopter claims to have "timed" a guy on an RC51 going over 200 mph. The RC51 was bone stock except for slip-ons. The guy on the bike insisted he was maxed out at 160 mph but the police wouldn't budge from their "calculation."

The incident ignited a firestorm of responses from motorcyclists like ourselves that insisted there's no way on earth an RC51 can reach 200 mph. Absolutely no way. Even the editors of major motorcycle publications came out and said that, while going 160 mph on a public road is stupid, unless the RC51 was turbocharged (it wasn't), there's no way that bike can get even close to 200 mph.

The cop said he was counting the mile markers on the highway and looking at his watch and calculated the motorcyclist's speed at over 200 mph. He insisted he was right. When the police officer was confronted with insurmountable evidence to the contrary, as expected, he refused to admit he was wrong.

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Hoping this did not exlode?

Greetings from Norway :)

Sent fra min SM-N910F via Tapatalk

IIRC, you have a Torocharger on your bike. Is it still on the bike? I'd love to hear your experiences...

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Still on, still strong, still surprising me and random hayabusa's :)

I have Some 20.000 km on it now, and to be honest, I have been toying with breaking the 200whp for some time now, but life gets in the way every winter. But I feel I'm getting closer to actually getting it done! First step is the TYGA headers in pre production :)

It is a damn good combo, V-four, "supercharger" and the sheep's clothes ;)

Sent fra min SM-N910F via Tapatalk

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Want to break 200 whp? Tyga headers for a real exhaust and Rapid Bike Racing for a real tune. That way you can pull the ignition timing back a few degrees, get a smaller supercharger pulley and or a larger crank pulley and safely add a few more pounds of boost. Another thing to look into would be larger injectors and fuel pump and then tuning for e85. Also you could do some head work, a port and polish and de-shrouding the valves and working the combustion chamber over to have slightly more volume, which would lower your compression ratio and allow for safely running more boost.

Edited by CandyRedRC46
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Want to break 200 whp? Tyga headers for a real exhaust and Rapid Bike Racing for a real tune. That way you can pull the ignition timing back a few degrees, get a smaller supercharger pulley and or a larger crank pulley and safely add a few more pounds of boost. Another thing to look into would be larger injectors and fuel pump and then tuning for e85. Also you could do some head work, a port and polish and de-shrouding the valves and working the combustion chamber over to have slightly more volume, which would lower your compression ratio and allow for safely running more boost.

My plan is roughly the same, with bigger injector as a must. Currently hoping for the TYGA to come trough first, even tough I'm not expecting miracles without adding more air.

Sent fra min SM-N910F via Tapatalk

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You should see if you can find a compressor map for the supercharger. Look at it. Do the math. See how many psi you can take it to by red line, with which pulley combos (compressor RPMs) and what efficiency island it will put you in...

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

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You should see if you can find a compressor map for the supercharger. Look at it. Do the math. See how many psi you can take it to by red line, with which pulley combos (compressor RPMs) and what efficiency island it will put you in...

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Dont be surprised if there will emerge a thread with this when time comes. Maps is not my native language. If I remember correctly I'm running 0.5 bar now.

I have the map from Dan and my own custom made.

Edited by WackenSS
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One bar is 14.7 psi so 7 or 8 psi is around 0.5 bar. Sounds about right to me. :)

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If you want map's, PM your e-mail and give me 2 minutes ;)

Sent fra min SM-N910F via Tapatalk

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What I would really like to see is a dyno pull with the injectors duty cycle overlayed. That way you could tell if you have fuel left or the injectors/pump is getting close to maxed out.

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What I would really like to see is a dyno pull with the injectors duty cycle overlayed. That way you could tell if you have fuel left or the injectors/pump is getting close to maxed out.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

If this is something the pcIII usb picks up then it should be in the map, no?

I fired her up first time with the power commander connected to win xp, but I can't remember anything from this many years ago.

It is stored in .djm file format I can see...

Sent fra min SM-N910F via Tapatalk

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Wargen. The bodywork is from an RC45, the frame, motor and swing arm is an RC46 and the front forks are? Is that correct?

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What I would really like to see is a dyno pull with the injectors duty cycle overlayed. That way you could tell if you have fuel left or the injectors/pump is getting close to maxed out.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

If this is something the pcIII usb picks up then it should be in the map, no?

I fired her up first time with the power commander connected to win xp, but I can't remember anything from this many years ago.

It is stored in .djm file format I can see...

Sent fra min SM-N910F via Tapatalk

It won't be shown on the map or stored, but it will be shown in real time as it's happening.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

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Ask Larry he scored an RC45 race one for Mr RC45 I believe. So I hope he has weights for standard (close to 5th gen) and the race unit.

Welcome wargen.. may I record your RC45 VIN in my growing World Wide list ???

Here is the whole story Mohawk is referring too....

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/52013-hrc-swingarm-upgrade/

Stock arm weights 11 lb 7.5 oz but the HRC arm weights 11 lb 2 oz

The HRC aluminum swingarm is stiffer internally with more webs to

resist the loads during the rigors of WSBK racing but it actually

weights in less due to it's extensive use of aluminum and titanium

bits...

post-3131-0-19607500-1460663680.jpg

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Still on, still strong, still surprising me and random hayabusa's :)

I have Some 20.000 km on it now, and to be honest, I have been toying with breaking the 200whp for some time now, but life gets in the way every winter. But I feel I'm getting closer to actually getting it done! First step is the TYGA headers in pre production :)

It is a damn good combo, V-four, "supercharger" and the sheep's clothes ;)

Sent fra min SM-N910F via Tapatalk

Is there a place for a small intercooler in there somewhere? Would it help if you could install one?

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Om sure it would help, but I can not see another location than inside the "manifold". Fitting it behind the wheel would leave the IC airless almost, and placing it under the headlight would disturb the air to the rotrex i think?

Would have been cool to see the IAT now tough :)

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  • 1 month later...

Running e85 or meth injection would negate the need for intercooling. Running a step or two colder plugs would help. Reducing coolant temps (which are already a concern on stock vfrs)  would dramatically help ward off any detonation concerns as stock the bike can easily see 225* F, ideally you would want to stay under 190*F. Most importantly, improving air flow through the engine and out the exhaust would lower the boost psi and create more power (as long as you don't create so much valve over lap that the boost just blows right through with out being compressed). Things like a real full exhaust, head porting, valve deshrouding, more aggressive cams (again paying attention to not dial in too much overlap) and larger throttle bodies would all allow more airflow out of the supercharger, lowering its psi and raising its cfm. It is CFM that makes power and lowering the psi will also lower the air charge temp, allowing you to either run a more aggressive tune or a more aggressive pulley combination to raise the psi back up...

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If you just want the numbers then water injection is a short boost bet. For an intercooler, IIRC the Toro charger does away with most of the airbox volume & uses some space for other fitting for the SC. But there is still spare volume under the tank. The best intercoolers are air-water-air units that cool the charge via a pumped water reservoir.

So replace the Plenum, with an air-2-water intercooler, mount a small rad down in front of the engine/headers & use a car heater boost pump to pump the coolant round ! Job done !  Add water injection for serious boost levels :)

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