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Seven Days. Five Bikes. Five Ferries. Three States. Two Provinces. One Crash.


Lorne

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Years ago I gave on rides through BC because of my poor luck weather-wise. Embarrassingly, I know California far better than my own backyard so this ride is long overdue, in fact I already took a ride through Cali this spring. So this fall, along with my friends Peter, Tony, Dave, and Doug, I decided on a ride through the Monashee, Selkirk, Purcell, and Canadian Rocky mountains, returning via the Northwest US.

Day 1

First step for any journey from Victoria is a ferry ride, today on one of BC Ferries main runs from Swartz Bay to Tsawassen. Then it’s an hour and a half of major highways/freeways to Hope and the start of some once 2-lane rural highways. Starting with Hwy 3, the Crowsnest Highway. Our marvellous summer weather ended just in time for our departure and we hit some light rain between Manning Park and Princeton. The day’s last leg up Hwy 5A to Merritt was sunny and dry with little traffic. Pretty scenery and a twisty road gave optimism for the morrow.

01 BC Ferries - Tsawassen terminal

02 Merritt, BC

03 dubious about the Chinese buffet

Day 2

Next morning was cool and bright, and the early light and clear air along the Nicola Valley was magical. First stop at historic Quichena Lodge for an early breakfast.

http://www.douglaslake.com/quilchena.html

05 Quilchena Lodge reception

07 Quilchena Lodge

Hwy 5A to Kamloops was open and flowing, and reminiscent of the western foothills of the Sierra Nevadas. Then south on Hwy 97 to Vernon, another nice rural road. There we stopped at Vernon Motorpsorts for a look-see and found a tidy VFKR on the wall. Dunno if it is available or not. Sun and summer-like low 20’s C were a pleasant change.

08 an old soldier at Vernon Motorsports

Eastbound on Hwy 6, our next stop was another ferry, free this time, this one a cable ferry across Lower Arrow Lake.

09 aboard the Needles-Fauquier cable ferry

10 aboard the Needles-Fauquier cable ferry

Within the hour we arrived a Nakusp, a tidy little town along the shore of Upper Arrow Lake, for the night. That evening, thunder and lightning and showers had me nervous for what the morning might bring.

12 the calm before the storm

13 suicide is painless


Day 3

Overcast and cool but dry as it happens. First stop is breakfast in New Denver, along the eastern shore of Slocan Lake. The town had the misfortune to be the site of one of the interment camps for Japanese Canadians. The restaurant was very slow, probably took an hour and a half. Hwy 31A is a twisty little thing up and over to Kaslo. The slow meal and another ferry ahead meant no time to drop in and see the SS Moyie, one of the last surviving sternwheelers of her era.

15 photo break nearing New Denver

16 Moyie ferry (me back in 1998)

Hwy 31A then takes a leisurely path along the western shore of Kootenay Lake south to Balfour. We arrived just in time to watch the ferry depart across to Kootenay Bay. For the next hour we relaxed and enjoyed the brilliant wx, and the fruit stand and bakery at the dockside.

Halfway across the lake a nasty squall blew in from the west boding ill for the afternoon. But we were spared more rain on Hwy 3A south to Creston, and fuel.

18 Balfour dock

19 aboard the Balfour ferry

21 Dave gets pensive on the Bafour ferry

In fact, the wx improved and the ride to Radium was a breeze. Fast open roads were offset by terrific vistas. Radium is a small mountain town and we were treated with the appearance of a couple small groups of mountain sheep, though no photos so I can’t prove it ;-P

Day 4

Leaden skies and a chilly 7 ℃ to start, but it cooled even more riding through Kootenay Park. We bravely stopped at Vermillion Crossing for a bite, and to warm up. The lodge offered only a modest choice but the view was terrific.

24 Kootenay Park Lodge at Vermillion Crossing

That was only half way to our intended break at Banff. Thankfully, the sun reappeared and the temps rose as we crossed into Alberta. East of Canmore we turned south on Hwy 40, the Kananaskis Trail, stopping for a break at Kananskis Village but fuel was another 20 km south. The mountain views are pretty spectacular and the open, flowing road lets you enjoy it but I wish it had some twisty bits.

25 Kananaskis

26 desperately seeking fuel in Kananaskis

At Longview, and the junction with Hwy 22, summer had returned and the mountains had vanished. Just rolling foothills for the rest of the ride to Pincher Creek, but watch for those wind gusts. Pincher Creek isn’t the prettiest spot on earth, it just happened to be the only logical spot to end our day.

27 Longview, Alta

28 looking south on Hwy 22

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One day........ One day.......

You are very fortunate and a great photographer to boot!!!

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Day 5


Another overcast day. We passed by Waterton Park because Glacier NP and the Going to the Sun road were today’s goal for the day - after US Immigration gave us the thumbs up that is. Soon enough the sun was out and we were siting down to breakfast at the St Mary Lodge, with a short stop en route for photos of Chief Mountain.



30 Chief Mountain



Road crews were out in force and had the next 20 km pretty much torn up - enough dirt that a set of TKC80s would have come in handy. Climbing up Logan Pass the temp dropped and the clouds thickened. Lots of traffic and several photo ops meant slow progress. Par for the course in Glacier NP. After the descent down the west side we took another break for coffee at West Glacier.



31 Going to the Sun


32 Going to the Sun


33 Going to the Sun


34 Going to the Sun


35 Going to the Sun


36 Going to the Sun


Hwy 2 through Whitefish and Kalispell was drudgery. After that it reverts to 2-lane for a relaxing ride to Libby.



Day 6


Next morning began damp, but a serious rain started during breakfast at Bonners Ferry. It dogged us the next 100 km into Washington state. At Usk w returned west onto Flowery Trail road to Chewelah. It is a great little backroad but damp roads and chill temps tempered our enthusiasm. A short stint up Hwy 395 then west on Addy-Gifford road to our fourth ferry trip. This one, across the Columbia river to Inchelium, in the Colville Reservation, for another break. The sun was back so it was time to stow the electric vest.



37 Dave mugs for the camera, Gifford ferry


38 Doug aboard Gifford ferry


About 40 km west of Inchelium, Doug lost concentration and found himself heading straight to the scene of the accident. He was alone in second position and just drifted wide exiting a gentle bend. I came by maybe a minute or so later and just caught sight of him. Fortunately, no serious injuries were evident. A fellow driving by stopped and offered him a After loading Doug and his gear into truck we headed for the county hospital in Republic, about 50 km north. Road rash on his backside and left elbow, and a broken right thumb was the diagnosis. But he was in no condition to ride - even had his Speed Triple survived - it's a write-off. Once the doc's gave the all clear, around 5:30 pm, we got for a room in Republic for Doug and me while the other three continued on to Winthrop. Doug's girlfriend agreed to retrieve him the following day.



Day 7


The last day started out clear but freezing cold, as in 0 ℃. Today I'd have a solo ride on Hwy 20 all the way to Anacortes, and the fifth different ferry ride of the trip. By Tonasket it had warmed up nicely and I enjoyed beautiful wx for the rest of the day. After a short stint on Hwy 97 to Omak, Hwy 20 resumes it’s westward course. The first few miles to Twisp suffered from a forest fire in July and mudslides in August. It had reopened just before we departed but was still undergoing repairs on the day. Winthrop seemed a good spot for a coffee break, refuelling could wait till Marblemount. All the way there from Republic, Hwy 20 is a great road - almost as good as some of my favourites in NorCal.



39 Washington Pass on Hwy 20


40 above Ross Lake on Hwy 20


Conversely, the rest of Hwy 20 is a commuter road and dull as dishwater. I spied Tony' ZRX parked at a Starbucks in Anacortes, and had enough time for a coffee with the other three before catching the ferry. I should note that Anacortes is a pretty spot, very touristy but definitely worth a visit. The 2+ hour ferry crosses through the San Juan Islands on it's way to Sidney, BC, and the last few km home.

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Nice report. Nice pics, that part of the country is truly beautiful. Keep 'em coming! I've travelled quite a few of the roads you took and I find the scenery breathtaking!

Sorry about the laps in concentration and the off. But if the bike is the only serious damage, you live to ride another day and all is good!

Cheers,

C

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Nice write up. I have travelled probably all the roads you were on with a couple other guys I ride with regularily except the Kananaskis road. I've been there working bakc when the G7 was held there. That hwy south of Kananaskis Park South Gate is absolutely georgeous. SOme day I will do that one on the bike too.

Next time through, look me up. I am only a mile from the freeway in CHilliwack. Been known to occassionally go to Vic as well. Was just there about a month ago.

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Thanks guys, I'm glad you liked it.

V4 Rosso: Actually, if we had taken this trip a week earlier we'd have been complaining about heat. In fact, the weather here has been marvellous all summer. Just a question of timing.

For a better idea of the route here is a map and timeline (pdf): http://www3.telus.net/lorneblack/maps/2014b_BC-US/Fall_trip.pdf

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