Member Contributer rescue Posted September 13, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted September 13, 2014 It was time for a drive replacement and have always had problems with stalling in first if revs were not higher , anything under 3000 rpm would want to bog and needed the clutch feathered. Hard braking without downshifting would leave me at the bottom of the gear, bog, then i'm scrambling to find the right gear. So tried -1 front sprocket rather then +2 rear sprocket as it seemed to suit me a little more as being non aggressive. After install went for a hundred mile run and found it really helped that bogginess?? in the lower gear where I tend to stay. Previously shifting into next gear would drop the rpm 1200-1800....now it drops into the next gear with dropping rpms only 600-800. More responsive on the throttle, now needing to be more gentle on and off the gas. Before i was always looking for that 7th gear, is even worse now ....bring the rpms up another 500 in the last gear. Which i don't mind too much as I am rarely a freeway flyer. I will leave in place for the rest of this season and next and always have the option of swapping out anytime with minimal cost and work. Overall it really helped my low pull which i use and need but top end is not there in which I rarely redline. I feel like its more forgiving with gear selection. I think its a good idea for in city and mountain riding but for slab riders not so much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer zupatun Posted September 13, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted September 13, 2014 Stock gearing on my bike seems to fit me fine. To each his own I guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MadScientist Posted September 13, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted September 13, 2014 You do realize that -1 up front is actually (very)slightly more aggressive than +2 in back? Stock: 43/17 = 2.53 -1 Front: 43/16 = 2.69 +2 Back: 45/17 = 2.65 If you are having trouble taking off in 1st gear below 3000 rpms, there is something not right. However, I also like the slightly higher gearing (numerically), suits my commute better than the stock ratio. I changed the rear because I like the dampened front OEM sprocket and I already had one. IIRC, Vtec bikes came stock with 43/16 gearing so that would be an option for people hoping to keep an OEM front sprocket and still drop a tooth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer The mailman Posted September 13, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted September 13, 2014 Bogging at less than 3000 rpm? Something isn't right to start with. Also be aware that your speedo will be even farther off than the optimistic OEM set up. I dropped a tooth up front on my '97 and it didn't take long for me to go back to stock. Crazy speedo #s and I was always looking for 6th gear on the highway when I was already there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knight Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 You do realize that -1 up front is actually (very)slightly more aggressive than +2 in back? Stock: 43/17 = 2.53 -1 Front: 43/16 = 2.69 +2 Back: 45/17 = 2.65 I do not understand - Is there not a size difference among the sprockets and is that not taken into consideration? For example, what if I used a 16 tooth sprocket that was 10 inches in diameter? Or is this built in to the calculations already based on the geometry? Thank you for posting. I wanted a +2 rear but cannot find it in steel, so I changed the front (99 VFR) from 17 to 16. I wondered what the difference was! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knight Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 Bogging at less than 3000 rpm? With many city street turns I wonder if I should go to first and be slightly high on the revs or stay in second and feather the clutch. The latter has been my preferred choice as it results in an ultra-smooth but slightly under-powered turn. I like perfectly smooth inputs and outputs, that is what being a motorcyclist is to me - never ever upset the bike balance :) However, it seems many motorcyclists do not enjoy shifting and such and to them feathering the clutch is "work". They should find the best gear ratio for the speeds they are at most often. So on a bike that goes very fast with stock gearing, moving the torque to the lower range, to fix the bucking and bogging, makes a lot of sense. I love the parkways and such, which are 25 - 35 mph. I have yet to test the 16 sprocket (bike in the shop now) but think it will be a great compromise. Hey, it is a sport bike! Of course it is revving higher all around than other bikes and cars. I think once I am riding with the 16 I will accept that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer wagzhp Posted September 13, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted September 13, 2014 I went +2 on the rear and really like the performance difference. I do a lot of commuting, ride to work every day, and get 45 mpg. It did throw the Speedo off another 5%, but I can live with that. But, the real difference for me is when I get the bike up in the hills. The gearing change gives the bike much more snap. So much so that I have to be careful to keep the front wheel on the ground in first and second. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer FJ12Ryder Posted September 13, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted September 13, 2014 I got my steel 45 tooth rear sprocket from Sprocket Center. A sprocket is a set size with a certain number of teeth because the distance between the links is part of the specification of the chain. So a 16 tooth 530 sprocket is going to be a certain diameter, no more no less. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
indianagenius Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 I'm actually running +1 on the front in order to bring down interstate RPM's. The speedo is now spot on and I don't mind the slight acceleration decrease. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer FJ12Ryder Posted September 15, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted September 15, 2014 I tried a +1 on the front but didn't care for the very tall first gear with it. I load the bike in my toyhauler frequently and that tall first gear made it a real chore with a +1. And I never noticed any improvement in gas mileage, so I figured it just wasn't worth the aggravation and went back to stock. I was very surprised at a recent couple hundred mile trip on the 4 lane with a +2 on the rear. I got some of the best mileage I've ever gotten. We were running 70-75 mph and I consistently got 50+ mpg. Go figure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knight Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 I got my steel 45 tooth rear sprocket from Sprocket Center. A sprocket is a set size with a certain number of teeth because the distance between the links is part of the specification of the chain. So a 16 tooth 530 sprocket is going to be a certain diameter, no more no less. Do you have the "Superlite"? That is the only 45T they have today. If so how many miles are on it and how hard have you pushed it? I am weary of this item because of the holes relieved in it... Thanks for the info, I was not thinking that no matter the sprocket physical size it still fits within the confines of the same size chain. I tried a +1 on the front but didn't care for the very tall first gear with it. I load the bike in my toyhauler frequently and that tall first gear made it a real chore with a +1. And I never noticed any improvement in gas mileage, so I figured it just wasn't worth the aggravation and went back to stock. I was very surprised at a recent couple hundred mile trip on the 4 lane with a +2 on the rear. I got some of the best mileage I've ever gotten. We were running 70-75 mph and I consistently got 50+ mpg. Go figure. One theory of efficiency is to get to your top speed as quickly as possible, then coast while at steady speed, and that will provide the best MPG. Now you are definitely getting to speed quicker with the +2T change. So are you able to coast at a relatively light throttle at 75 MPH? If so the bike OEM is just geared way too tall, which sounds right considering max speed of these bikes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer FJ12Ryder Posted September 16, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted September 16, 2014 I looked up my receipt it doesn't say anything about it being the "Superlite", but the part number is the same: D10607. I don't know what the "R" means, mine is just D10607. The price is a bit cheaper too, mine was $54.95. I've had it on there for 2 years and 15,000 miles and it looks fine. I'm getting about due for a new chain, this one has about 20,000 miles on it. I use a HawkeOiler with 140-90 gear lube for chain lubrication, Your theory about efficiency sounds as good as anything else, and I'll have to agree that IMO the VFR's are over geared. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 26, 2014 Share Posted September 26, 2014 I commute in stop start traffic, dropping a tooth at the front made a huge difference. As far as cruising speed, 5000rpm at 110kph (GPS) I can live with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enzed_viffer Posted September 27, 2014 Share Posted September 27, 2014 I commute in stop start traffic, dropping a tooth at the front made a huge difference. As far as cruising speed, 5000rpm at 110kph (GPS) I can live with. That's the reason I went down a tooth on the front sprocket for a couple of years. as virtually all my riding was commuting (at less than 100km/h). Been back to stock ratios for a while now though, and it's fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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