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Throttle Body Isolator Boots


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You are correct David and I have checked the oil level.

Another late night so I can get them in the mail in the morning.

Someday you and I will meet.

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Here's a valuable tip idiots like me....when installing your fuel injectors put them in the fuel rails first. I damaged two o-rings when I assembled it. I'm still sending them back to Jim because of the one injector that leaked down. Although that may be of my stupidity also. I will call him and offer to pay for new seals and o-rings. He did intact replace the cushions.

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Question for the gurus...

Since a previous owner has "adjusted" the wax unit how would you go about setting it up like they did at the factory during assembly?

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I can't help with any specific settings for the wax unit, but I can perhaps help you understand how it functions, as I would assume it is automating the function of the fast idle lever which my 99 model has.

The idle speed of the VFR is controlled by the starter valves. These bypass the main butterflies, which are closed at idle, and allow a controlled amount of air to reach the cylinders. To make the idle speed higher, the starter valves open more. The starter valves also have a synchronisation function whereby three of the valves can be independently adjusted in reference to the fixed fourth one, to even out the airflow between the cylinders.

The starter valves are opened as a bank by the starter valve lever. The idle adjustment screw sets the resting point of the starter valve lever.

For a cold start, the lever is opened in my case by the fast idle cable, in your case by the wax unit. When operating temperature is reached the starter valve plate should be returned to its resting point set by the idle screw, in my case by releasing tension on the cable and in your case by the wax unit.

I would approach this by getting the bike and wax unit good and hot (so normal operating temp of around 80C/176F) and set the idle with the idle adjuster, and then make sure the wax unit is not applying any force to the starter valve lever (equivalent to some slack in the fast idle cable), so that the starter valve lever position is only due to the idle adjuster screw. But you would not want the wax unit to be sitting too far away from applying force to the lever, otherwise when it is cold it might not open as far as you need to get a stable idle. To me, that should be the only adjustment that you'll need or want.

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No!!!

The wax unit should be applying pressure to the starter valve lever plate when cold. When hot it should apply no pressure so only the idle screw holds the starter valves open.

Sorry Switchblade, maybe I'm misreading your post and that's what you meant.

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Take a heat gun to it and see if it's still applying pressure to starter valve's.

No!!!

The wax unit should be applying pressure to the starter valve lever plate when cold. When hot it should apply no pressure so only the idle screw holds the starter valves open.

Sorry Switchblade, maybe I'm misreading your post and that's what you meant.

Or-r-r-r-r ... you're both correct.

As in, check out the wax unit and it's operation while it's cold ... and then use a heat gun *CAREFULLY* to see if you can get the fast idle to change right away?

(just thinking out loud ....)

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I did try a heat gun on it...it moves very slowly. Like Signal had stated it could have an air bubble in it. I have a rebuild kit for it. I'm going to try to bleed the air out of it by pulling off one of the hoses right after I start it. I need to know which hose is the outlet side. Anyone know?

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No!!!

The wax unit should be applying pressure to the starter valve lever plate when cold. When hot it should apply no pressure so only the idle screw holds the starter valves open.

Sorry Switchblade, maybe I'm misreading your post and that's what you meant.

Should have a been a little more clearer.

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No I think you have this backwards, sorry. As I said I don't have a wax unit but I did look at Kaldek's 6th gen wax unit video. That showed the wax unit shaft extending out (so lengthening) as the unit heated up, which allows the starter valves to close. The starter valve plate should be sitting on the end of the idle screw when hot, or being pulled open by the wax unit when cold. I would expect there is a nut on the end of the wax unit shaft where it pulls on the starter valve plate. When the bike is hot there should be a little freeplay between the nut and the plate so that the plate position is only governed by the idle screw, not the wax unit.

I think the wax unit consists of a plug of wax that expands and contracts in response to temperature. This pulls the shaft inwards when cold, and pushes it out when hot.

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No I think you have this backwards, sorry. As I said I don't have a wax unit but I did look at Kaldek's 6th gen wax unit video. That showed the wax unit shaft extending out (so lengthening) as the unit heated up, which allows the starter valves to close. The starter valve plate should be sitting on the end of the idle screw when hot, or being pulled open by the wax unit when cold. I would expect there is a nut on the end of the wax unit shaft where it pulls on the starter valve plate. When the bike is hot there should be a little freeplay between the nut and the plate so that the plate position is only governed by the idle screw, not the wax unit.

I think the wax unit consists of a plug of wax that expands and contracts in response to temperature. This pulls the shaft inwards when cold, and pushes it out when hot.

The wax unit closes when its cold. It "pulls" on the plate, which moves the starter valves. On the opposite side of the plate is the idle screw which "pushes" the plate.

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Got the injectors back from Jim again and they all check out fine. This past Thursday night I got back together and running again.(no fuel leaks now) As for the wax unit...I tried another suggestion about bleeding the air out of it. With the two coolant hoses disconnected from the wax unit, I filled coolant system until there was coolant coming out of both hoses. Slipped one hose on the wax unit so that it would push the air out of the wax unit and then slipped the other hose on. Well apparently just removing the throttle body made the wax unit fail. How the hell is that possible? It worked great before removing the throttle body. Friday night I pulled the tank and air box...again, removed the wax unit and got it apart only to find out that the new kit I had has vanished. Looks like I'll be ordering another wax element again. I did ride it over the weekend and she runs great other than at idle because the starter valves are out of synch and can't synch them until I get the wax unit working again. What a run of bad luck and expense this has been.

Jeff

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New wax element ordered today. Hopefully I'll have it by Thursday because this Friday is the Level 1 Total Control Advanced Riding Clinic that I would absolutely hate my life if I missed it.

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curious as to how you "calibrate" the new wax unit. If it were simple enough you think they would mention how to do it in the service manual. I always wondered about how I would do it if I ever replaced the wax unit.

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Well my approach will be to set the fast idle speed with the wax unit first engine running. Then after the engine is warm synch the starter valves. The # 1 starter valve is not adjustable(factory pre-set and y'all know that I'm sure) so setting those up should not be an issue.

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Success!! No fuel leaks. Starter valves synched. New wax element installed and is working although it is sluggish to close the valves but seems to be getting better. I was able to make it to David's class this past Friday!! Learned many things I need to work on. Maybe next spring I can take level II

THANKS FOR ALL YOUR SUGGESTIONS INVOLVING THIS THREAD.

Jeffrey

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