Member Contributer JeffInFranklinTN Posted August 26, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted August 26, 2014 I've had to remove the throttle body to gain access to a problem I discoverd changing the coolant. (pic to be posted) My question is, since my bike is 14 years old do you folks replace the isolators if you have removed the throttle body? I will replace the coolant hoses associated and the thermostat of course. ? (Edit) Upon removing the coolant recovery tank I found an unoccupied mouse nest in the "V" of the engine. "Oh nooo!" Sure enough the furry infiltrator did this... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JeffInFranklinTN Posted August 26, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted August 26, 2014 Samsung Droid Charge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted August 26, 2014 Share Posted August 26, 2014 If the throttle body boots are not cracked or hardened, you can keep on using them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JeffInFranklinTN Posted August 26, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted August 26, 2014 Thanks veefer. I have always replaced them on the 1st gen Magnas but was curious to know if newer products lasted much longer. Il Samsung Droid Charge A bit of good news....I found a harness on ebay. $15.00 shipped. :) Samsung Droid Charge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JeffInFranklinTN Posted August 27, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted August 27, 2014 The boots need to be replaced.....bummer. Samsung Droid Charge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MBrane Posted August 27, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted August 27, 2014 The boots on my 98 with 74K on it aren't cracked, but they feel like they are made of ABS! New ones ready to go on. Nice 'n flexible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer AnikMankar Posted August 27, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted August 27, 2014 I am in process of replacing my coolant pipes and clean my injectors. Found a similar problem - the wires were in similar start ... i just created new wires and soldered them on. the boots are heard...i had purchased new after market ones sometime back so ...they came in handy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer vfrcapn Posted August 28, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted August 28, 2014 I just put new ones on mine, TB popped right on. Was worth the $25 or so for new ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
signal Posted August 28, 2014 Share Posted August 28, 2014 how difficult was it to replace the boots? I know on the 6th gen I have seen some posts about it being a real pita to get the TB off the boots. I bought new boots and new clamps for my 6th gen. I just don't want to take it all apart just for that........I have a new thermostat as well and so I am sorting of waiting until i need to replace the thermostat and then just do it all at once. On the 6th gen at least, there is very specific gaps for the clamps, one spec for the lower clamps (engine) and one for the upper clamps (TB). If you over or under tighten these I have heard you could have leaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MBrane Posted August 28, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted August 28, 2014 how difficult was it to replace the boots? I know on the 6th gen I have seen some posts about it being a real pita to get the TB off the boots. I bought new boots and new clamps for my 6th gen. I just don't want to take it all apart just for that........I have a new thermostat as well and so I am sorting of waiting until i need to replace the thermostat and then just do it all at once. On the 6th gen at least, there is very specific gaps for the clamps, one spec for the lower clamps (engine) and one for the upper clamps (TB). If you over or under tighten these I have heard you could have leaks. The longer you wait the harder it gets. A liberal application of WD40, and a heat gun will help. I was surprised to find my thermostat in good shape, but I replaced it anyway. I found more nasty corrosion on the water neck o-ring grooves, and the o-rings were pretty much done. I imagine it gets pretty damn hot in there when the temp sensor is reading 245°F. I had the entire engine apart so it just made sense to replace all that stuff on a 16 year old bike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JeffInFranklinTN Posted August 28, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted August 28, 2014 I just put new ones on mine, TB popped right on. Was worth the $25 or so for new ones. $25.00 for OEM boots? That's half what I paid....ouch. how difficult was it to replace the boots? I know on the 6th gen I have seen some posts about it being a real pita to get the TB off the boots. I bought new boots and new clamps for my 6th gen. I just don't want to take it all apart just for that........I have a new thermostat as well and so I am sorting of waiting until i need to replace the thermostat and then just do it all at once. On the 6th gen at least, there is very specific gaps for the clamps, one spec for the lower clamps (engine) and one for the upper clamps (TB). If you over or under tighten these I have heard you could have leaks. Now I'm wondering if I should have the injectors checked....how much would that cost? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
signal Posted August 28, 2014 Share Posted August 28, 2014 I had mine cleaned/tested by a place right hear me, it was $20 per injector. If you just want flow testing its $12.50 per injector (the cleaning however includes flow testing, an new seals, etc): http://fuelinjectorclinic.com/fuel-injector-cleaning Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JeffInFranklinTN Posted August 28, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted August 28, 2014 Wow!! That's a very reasonable price. Did you remove the injectors yourself or give them the throttle body with injectors still attached? Samsung Droid Charge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer vfrcapn Posted August 29, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted August 29, 2014 I just put new ones on mine, TB popped right on. Was worth the $25 or so for new ones. $25.00 for OEM boots? That's half what I paid....ouch. I mis-remembered, they were $12.11 ea. I bought two pages worth of parts, forget the details at my age. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
signal Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 Wow!! That's a very reasonable price. Did you remove the injectors yourself or give them the throttle body with injectors still attached? Samsung Droid Charge I pulled them myself. Once you remove the air box, the injectors are super easy. It included 2 of the 3 rubber seals that are used on our injectors, I think the "cushions" aren't included, so I had bought those. There are many injector places that are mobile too, they will come to your house. I am pretty sure the place I used you can mail them your injectors and they will mail them back as well. For the record, mine were tested with a clean bill of health. I was (And still am) trying to nail down some surging issues I am having, and so I replaced all the fuel rail seals, Fuel Pressure Regulator, Fuel Filter, and had the injectors tested/cleaned, as just a regular part of my troubleshooting. Of course, our bikes rely heavily on electronics (fuel injection), and so any weird electrical gremlins can also cause weird symptoms that may appear to be fuel system related. I can say positively my fuel system is good to go... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JeffInFranklinTN Posted August 30, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted August 30, 2014 Thought I found a local guy but he sold his company two years ago. So today I shipped mine off to a company in NY. http://injectorrepair.com/injector-service/ $17.00 each sonic cleaning, flow test, seals, etc. $73.75 includes return shipping and usually shipped back within 24 hrs of receiving them. Might as well have peace of mind. Jeffrey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer BusyLittleShop Posted August 30, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted August 30, 2014 Its a good idea to perform preventive maintenance anytime you have accesses under the throttle bodies.. Mr.RC45 at 50K miles mark before and after Not only were all the throttle bodies boots replaced all the hoses and O rings were also replaced for obvious reasons... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JeffInFranklinTN Posted August 31, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted August 31, 2014 I am hoping that having the injectors cleaned will give it a smoother throttle response and fix a slight "spark knock" when you are taking off from a dead stop or blipping the throttle. (Used to be worse) I suspect at least one injector is the culprit. Although the bike averages 41 mpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JeffInFranklinTN Posted September 6, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 6, 2014 Got the injectors back today. He said they were good as is when he got them. The flow rate balance of 4℅ which is within specs. After cleaning, they now have a flow rate balance of 2 1\2% Maybe I'll have it back together by tomorrow night. :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JeffInFranklinTN Posted September 11, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 11, 2014 Installed new battery this morning. Started it up...flooded itself and died. Got it started again and will stay running but is difficult to rev up (spits and sputters but no back fire). Temp gauge flashing at 270 but it's not over heating. Remains at high idle. (Wax unit model) Pretty sure air is out of the cooling system. Hoses at the water pump are hot and both radiators are hot. Any suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
signal Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 Temp gauge at 270 sounds a bit insane.........maybe thats a bad reading/sensor? Where does that number come from the ECT? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JeffInFranklinTN Posted September 11, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 11, 2014 lol That's what it was showing on the instrument panel. It started flashing at 250. Within two minutes after starting it was over 220 and kept climbing. Cooling fan never came on and I know it is woks. I haven't touched the wires for the fan.The FI light does not stay on or flash. I need help.....please. Jeffrey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JeffInFranklinTN Posted September 11, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 11, 2014 lol That's what it was showing on the instrument panel. It started flashing at 250. Within two minutes after starting it was over 220 and kept climbing. Cooling fan never came on and I know it is woks. I haven't touched the wires for the fan.The FI light does not stay on or flash. I need help.....please. Jeffrey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted September 11, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted September 11, 2014 Bad luck Jeff. The temp sender is screwed in to the back of the front head left cylinder under that darned throttle body. I think you've got an electrical fault with the temp sensor wires as I doubt the engine could get that hot that quick. At 2k warm up I reckon it takes my VFR 2 minutes to get to 120F. The FI system uses the temp measure to adjust fuelling so a screwy temp will mess with fueling. The fan uses its own switch on the left radiator and is not dependent on the coolant temp sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
signal Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 Just seems so weird you would have an issue with the temp sensor after just being in there. Do you think maybe you knocked something loose, stretched/cut a wire or something like that? Sucks you may have to take the TB off again........I guess if there is anything else down there you haven't replaced (hoses, o rings) may want to just do that this time since its such a chore to get in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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