Member Contributer Texfoto Posted October 10, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted October 10, 2014 Ahh, not suggesting a power gain. Just wondered if it all behaved with straight pipes and the muffler and that your gas mileage didn't go to sh!t. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rovari Posted October 11, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted October 11, 2014 Great work on the tank aokman!! I have heard a few people talk about the pair delete. Is this something that should be done? What is the benefit and how easy is this to do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Mac Morgan Posted October 11, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted October 11, 2014 Having owned a 98 since new, I've had plenty of time to deal with its eccentricities. My original rr which toasted the plastic housing was probably caused by poor connections. Some battery terminal issues the same. I replaced the original rr with a Roadstercycle Mosfet unit which runs cooler then the diode OEM unit. On a recent 1000 trip I had the clock and odometer resetting and erratic temperature readout - finally everything just quit at a stop sign. Turned out to be a loose neg. battery terminal. Make sure you have GOOD CONNECTIONS everywhere and use dielectric grease! My original rr is now on my 89 VTR 250 doing great. I replaced the overheated terminals and the plastic housing and plugged it in. A small computer fan attached to the face of the rr will help cool it down by about 20-30 degrees. A lot of manufacturers us the same rr. BMW's GS800 has their rr attached to an outside frame rain, pretty much in the air stream. Good idea to get everything cleaned up - "cleanliness in next to godliness." Wheel cleaner, toothbrushes, scrub brushes and hot water work well for cleaning up calipers and around rotors. Ditzler wax and grease remover is great for removing road tar and chain-oil from the bike. Speaking of chains and sprockets, the oem chain and sprocket kit by either DID or RK is around $260+/-. A lot of aftermarket kits use a hardened aluminum rear sprocket which will not last! The oem front sprocket had a rubber damper vulcanized onto both sides - probably quiets things down, and is superior to any after aftermarket part. As for maintainance, both Honda and Regina (a chain mfg from Italy and supplier to Rossi's MotoGP Yamaha, recommend 80-90wt gear lube. It makes quite a mess but really works. How often? How 'bout every 250 miles! At 16,000 miles, my original chain was starting to emit red oxidation (rust debris) after 200 miles of riding, meaning the pins and rollers were gone. I found a bottle of gear lube and it really made a difference (and a mess) over the next 500 miles. BRAKES and clutch hydraulics : Fluid change every year! Also, chain gunk on clutch rod can build up in sprocket housing and cause sticking. If fluid is milky, water/moisture has invaded the system. I use Valvolene DOT4 - good product and price. Good luck with your VFR, their great bikes! Mac Morgan Hockessin, DE Quick FYI: Got a Spiegler Front/rear brake line kit with choice of line and fitting colors from Sportbiketrackgear.com. Also included a can of brake/contact cleaner and EBC DOT4 brake fluid and free shipping for $350.00. Ask for Nick Hande. Great service! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aokman Posted October 12, 2014 Author Share Posted October 12, 2014 Having owned a 98 since new, I've had plenty of time to deal with its eccentricities. My original rr which toasted the plastic housing was probably caused by poor connections. Some battery terminal issues the same. I replaced the original rr with a Roadstercycle Mosfet unit which runs cooler then the diode OEM unit. On a recent 1000 trip I had the clock and odometer resetting and erratic temperature readout - finally everything just quit at a stop sign. Turned out to be a loose neg. battery terminal. Make sure you have GOOD CONNECTIONS everywhere and use dielectric grease! Just make sure you don't use dielectric grease on the actual contacts themselves, it is not conductive contrary to believe, it is designed to insulate :) I use DeoxIT gold for my connections to maximum conductivity. I use it for work and seen its magic first hand :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aokman Posted October 12, 2014 Author Share Posted October 12, 2014 Well took the VFR out for its first ride today, everything went well mostly. Steering was light with no shake with hands off etc, power is good and strong front wheel floating off the ground in 2nd :), I am getting a weird bouncing through the bike at the moment but might just be the suspension since I haven't touched the adjustments since it came back from the suspension shop. Feels a little like a rocking horse going back and forth in short strokes and jittery. Need to read up more on dialing in suspension. God that exhaust and gear whine is intoxicating, going to get my mate to ride it to hear it from behind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aokman Posted October 21, 2014 Author Share Posted October 21, 2014 Just thought I would give everyone an update on how the bike is going, done about 250km on it so far, everything is mostly going ok. Had a small leak around one of the flare nuts on the forks so tightened it a bit more with the correct flare nut spanner and its stopped leaking, also had a bit of fluid around a front right caliper bleeder so snugged that up a bit more tonight hopefully that takes care of it :) Already due for a chain adjustment surprisingly, was actually getting a shudder just before rolling too a stop today and noticed it was really loose already hopefully thats all it is :) Will do the valve sync shortly along with the voltage alarm, fan seems to be doing an excellent job on the rectifier, air is exiting around the taillight section. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.