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New Owner Of 98' Vfr800!


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Welcome! You scored the best year of the best gen in the fastest color (opinions will vary but mine is the only one that matters :) congrats! Bike names are awesome and usually very unique, mine is Cap'n Frisky, a name spawned during a Bourbon fueled garage session with my riding buddy. Funny, I named my bike 4 years ago and it still makes me laugh when I type it.

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Thanks zoomzoom! Any fiddling around with the turn signals too?

I didn't switch the turn signals on the front or rear to LED's as the cost of the bulbs was just too much to justify (especially since the shipping cost was quite high) and you need either an electronic flasher of some sort or resistors (I think anyway though not one hundred percent sure) to slow the flash rate of the bulbs. As a result I left them alone. I did however change the brake light bulbs to LED towers (the bulbs were a gift from a fellow member of the forum). I think the bulbs themselves were about US $25 each though I'm not sure where they were sourced from. If you do change the turn signals or brake lights, be sure that you get bulbs that are similar in color to the lens they shine through. Ie. red bulbs for the tail lights and amber ones for the turn signals, unless of course you have clear lenses, then you just need the appropriate color bulb.

The LED brake light tower bulbs I have are certainly brighter than stock bulbs but compared to the cost of standard bulbs I'm not sure they are worth the extra cost. Just my opinion mind you.

Awesome for the info and I'll report back after finding the right combo for bulbs and resistors. Even with the added cost, the slight gain in vision is so worth it for where I live. I just live in the thick of some pretty bad driving culture. I guess no where is safe in San Diego or most metropolitan areas to begin with. We'll see.

Welcome! You scored the best year of the best gen in the fastest color (opinions will vary but mine is the only one that matters :) congrats! Bike names are awesome and usually very unique, mine is Cap'n Frisky, a name spawned during a Bourbon fueled garage session with my riding buddy. Funny, I named my bike 4 years ago and it still makes me laugh when I type it.

Aren't they supposed to be like that? All my car/bike/precious item names are from some old crazy ex of some sort or the other. Eastern europeans just tend to have sexy names ;) Thanks for the welcome guys! Pictures will be tomorrow!

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Finally picked her up today and wow I'm in love! These bikes do have the 'touring' in mind, and that's something I wan't to grow into, so I can cruise up and down the california coast. I didn't have a phone or good lighting so pics aren't happening today but I'll confirm shes' got a wolf exhaust to every last part and drop.

As much as I'd love to keep the exhaust, I might have to weight the pros and cons ($$). Its like growling straight pipes but i do miss a side can...so We're going to adjust the ride to me in a few days and then the lifestyle begins.

I think she's grown into an Anastasia, just without the tragic ending.

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Might have to bestow "The Pup" title to my bike... I know MaxSwell would approve. :goofy:

I do. It's perfect!

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I already had to use one side of my set :( Tatiana has been sitting for a year with limited use so I had to jump her a couple of times and during one of them a car decided to get in the middle of it. I'm pretty new to motorcycles and all I've been hearing is how stupid this bike was to start off with. Being next to the coast, in San Diego, I'm glad she's a bit bigger and bit heavier to keep her sturdy during some of those heavy gusts.

Boy does this wolf let people know when I'm coming around. Y'all always have people wanting to race you? Didn't know I'd be saying this but it's pretty tiresome. Any go to thread for these gsxr forks I keep hearing about btw?

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  • 4 weeks later...

My bike left me stranded in a really remote part of town in San Diego and due to the time and everything else I just had to take it to a shop. We instantly inspected the battery and it couldn't hold a charge and with the bike running the voltmeter didn't show more than 13V so we decided it was the regulator. Upon picking her up yesterday I saw the carnage that was the stator and regulator and both plugs were just plain melted. Is this my bike telling me to buy the vfrness? I thought I had a couple more weeks (of the couple weeks of ownership I just had) before I had to buy.

Anyone in San Diego up for a hello?

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Sounds like your '98 has fallen victim to the dreaded (and apparently inevitable) "designed-to-fail VFR charging system" issues.

Unfortunately after 21k miles and admittedly16+ years my up-to-now reliable '98's running voltage has dropped to where it generally registers in the low-to-mid 13V range. So I'm confident she's about due for an upgraded RR, heavier wiring/connectors (VFRness?) & more/better connections to ground.

Hopefully the shop that serviced yours didn't take you to the cleaners over this. You said you saw the carnage... that was the stator, regulator & both (melted) plugs. Did the shop replace all of these components? If so, I'm curious what was the cost to you?.

Also, how many miles are showing on your VFR's odometer?

In any case I hope you're good-to-go now, but if everything was just repaired or replaced to restore the components to o.e. condition you may want to consider installing some of the upgrades discussed & as recommended by other VFR owners on the forum.

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I don't like the sound of this. I just got a low mile 98. With it came some type of mosfet(?) R/R the PO never got round to installing. I must get on this!

In my mind the original harness should be fine. It's the connectors that possibly corrode over time I'm thinking. I have to open things up and see what I have actually got I guess.

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When I purchased my '98 from the original owner in March of '01, like you I ended up with a relatively-low mileage (6.2k) and well-kept example despite the age. So far my '98 has only let me down by failing to start once (three years ago) when the battery apparently failed when I shut off the engine while waiting for a long traffic light to cycle on a hot day in June. Later that year after I had replaced the battery I also installed a digital voltmeter to monitor the health of the charging system. Since then I've observed my viffer's typical operating voltage at cruising speeds as it has gradually dropped from a high around 13.8V - 13.7V down to around 13.4V - 13.3V now. Although my VFR seems to run well and the gauges and lights still seem to work normally, according to what I've read on this forum specifications listed in the factory service manual indicate we should be seeing around 14.2 volts at the battery w/the engine running and I've observed the voltage readings from my10-year-old Mazda 3 with just over 121k miles (measured at the cigarette lighter socket) typically seem to register in the 13.8V - 14.0V range.

So if your '98 was stored indoors in a relatively-low-humidity environment by the prior owner(s), like me you could be good for a few years and another 10-15k miles. However checking the running voltage at the battery w/the engine at a high idle, and checking the condition of the wiring, connectors, main fuses and grounds could still be a wise move on your part-just in case.

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When I purchased my '98 from the original owner in March of '01, like you I ended up with a relatively-low mileage (6.2k) and well-kept example despite the age. So far my '98 has only let me down by failing to start once (three years ago) when the battery apparently failed when I shut off the engine while waiting for a long traffic light to cycle on a hot day in June. Later that year after I had replaced the battery I also installed a digital voltmeter to monitor the health of the charging system. Since then I've observed my viffer's typical operating voltage at cruising speeds as it has gradually dropped from a high around 13.8V - 13.7V down to around 13.4V - 13.3V now. Although my VFR seems to run well and the gauges and lights still seem to work normally, according to what I've read on this forum specifications listed in the factory service manual indicate we should be seeing around 14.2 volts at the battery w/the engine running and I've observed the voltage readings from my10-year-old Mazda 3 with just over 121k miles (measured at the cigarette lighter socket) typically seem to register in the 13.8V - 14.0V range.

So if your '98 was stored indoors in a relatively-low-humidity environment by the prior owner(s), like me you could be good for a few years and another 10-15k miles. However checking the running voltage at the battery w/the engine at a high idle, and checking the condition of the wiring, connectors, main fuses and grounds could still be a wise move on your part-just in case.

Yes I plan to have a look at things when I get the chance. Will at the very least have a go at it with some dielectric. I am only on day 2 of her being registered and riding. MAY get some time sunday. Maybe.

Edit: got antsy about what was in there and what I got in a box with the bike. Pulled the plastic off and found the stock setup. Looked in the box and found a new mosfet regulater with connectors for the VFR and a new VFRness. Cool!

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The shop showed me the regulator plug and it was charred black and partially melted. He showed me the stator and 3/4 of it looked like it was a different color that didn't seem normal. We tested the battery before and it held a maximum of %63 charge so all of it went. This was all on a 30K mile bike. Pretty much $140 stator+$150 non mosfet RR :unsure: + $70 battery = $360 for parts. In the end he charged me $600. Before you jump the gun he did give me a final push a couple more blocks with his scooter via rear foot peg and did a final exam of the chain, oil, tire and brakes. He even threw me in a fruit punch gatorade on the hot afternoon. Yup, I got railed.

The shop didn't have the most favorable reviews so I'm still a little suspect with his work. I don't know if I forgot how my little red rocket sounded or I'm just imagining things but I feel like she sounds different. She rev's and rides easier but she seems to have more of a tic. If I knew how to post videos on here I'd show you. Then again I never had the bike without the electrical problem. Right when I bought her the lights were already slowly flickering and after the fix they dont. I'd love to swing by to some one in SD so I can hear what an in shape VFR800 should sound like.

With that I'll be checking fluids such as oil and coolant tomorrow. What are your summer temp readings? I stay between 171-180F but will jump and stay consistently 221F if I'm just idling or sitting at a light.

So to all of you guys that just replied, MOSFET RR and VFRNESS!!!!! Don't get stuck with melted parts. You're never in the place where you want it to happen haha.

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Ouch - $600! That's gotta hurt since you only purchased the bike a few weeks ago. Of course, I guess "the damage" could have been worse.

It's also sad (and unfortunate) that the prior owner failed to own up to the fact that your vfr had charging issues, for I'd find it hard to believe he was unaware they existed before it was advertised for sale.

As far as the changes you've noticed in how your vfr runs now, I wouldn't be surprised since with a weak battery and charging system the motorcycle's ignition system performance may have been somewhat weak as well.

For what it's worth, your experience of having the bike leave you stranded unexpectedly has rattled my cage and convinced me it's time to stop procrastinating, for I need to inspect and upgrade my '98's charging system before the same thing happens to to me when I could be riding alone and a considerable distance from home.

Hopefully she'll last long enough for me to enjoy the relatively long day-ride to the mountains I've already make plans to take w/TNRabbit tomorrow.

Cheers!

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Welcome to a newb from a newbie!

I'd keep that loud exhaust system if I were you.... it might save you from an accident someday if someone can hear you coming even though they might not have seen you...

Saw some good advice about an Aerostitch earlier on this thread. I can vouch for those. Have had mine some 20 years and used it for 10's of thousands of miles in all weathers...

Can put the entire suit on & take it off in around 1 minute over all my clothes. Other suits tend to be a lot more cumbersome to use.

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So I'm really upset here and need some help. Was merging into the carpool lane on an onramp. Right before I was going to do so a school bus, going full tilt, passed me by just by a couple of feet. I had the bike fall as just a gut instinct.

The problem now is that my "open throttle knob" (sp??) fell off while riding on the freeway. When I was leaving for work it seemed like it was on okay but when I started riding it just became loose and lost all purpose in its functionality. The bloody thing just fell off 20 minutes later. What can explain this, since the thing seemed like it was stuck on pretty well, and what can I do about it?

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  • Member Contributer

I was very tempted to post a witty reply as I have only the vaguest idea what you mean by the "open throttle knob"! However if you dropped your bike you're probably not in a laughing mood. I'll assume you are referring to the throttle tube on the right handlebar. This has the handgrip slid over it, and it rotates around the bar. There's a push-pull cable connected to this within the switchblock. I would guess that the impact has perhaps snapped off the lugs that the throttle cables connect to? If so you're taking about a simple piece of plastic to replace. If you remove the Philips head screws in the switchblock underside you should be able to open up the block and check it. Then order a replacement from your friendly Honda parts supplier.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Do you mean the bar end weight fell off?

If it's that, I'd just buy a new one from your Honda dealer. It won't cost a lot.

Make sure you loctite the screw in when replacing, as evidently the previous owner either didn't tighten it enough, or didn't use loctite.

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