Steering Head Bearings +Races Question

[Guest Stanky98VFR]

Just purchased all ballz steering head bearing kit. I understand replacing the bearings+seals+dust shield on the lower triple tree/yoke, the top slips on and the bottom bearing must be pressed on, I get all that. My question is, inside the steering head itself the two separate races that need to be driven out for replacement (bottom+lower) do those races always come with the bearing kit? Might be newb question but the picture just does not do the ad justice. Do I need to purchase them specifically separate or should they be in my steering bearing kit all ballz from ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/171326825717?item=171326825717&viewitem=&vxp=mtr

I just want to be positive Ive taken my forks off 5 times last week I am learning to be absolutely positive about my DIY!

[Guest]

[ember1205]

A bearing race is specific to the type of bearing being used if not to the actual bearing. So, swapping from ball bearings to needle bearings does absolutely require new races. But, the listing shows that there are two bearings AND two races (both in description and in pictures), so I'm not sure what has you concerned. As long as you get the full All Balls kit (22-1020), which includes the seals like in that listing, I believe you will have everything you need.

[V4 Rosso]

do those races always come with the bearing kit?

Yes, they are part of the bearing. A bearing consists of an inner race, a few balls or rollers in a cage and an outer race. The outer races are pressed into the head stock, the inner race of the lower head bearing is pressed onto the steering stem, the inner race of the top bearing slides onto the steering stem.

[TNRabbit]

^^^this^^^

Yes, it all comes with the kit. Just did this last month.

[YoshiHNS]

Yes. Everything comes with the kit. Drive the old ones out straight and press the new ones in. Pack your new bearings, and have at it.

[vfracer750]

As the other members stated, the full kit comes with the races.

I just replaced my steering head bearings with Honda OEM parts. Difference is pretty dramatic. I had a click from the head bearings when coming to a hard stop and a wobble between 40-45 mph. Steering is nice a smooth now with no notchiness.

I referenced these two links which helped out a lot.

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/36-steering-head-bearing-replacement/

http://vfrworld.com/forums/showthread.php/21055-Tappered-Head-Bearings-4-Gen-How-to

It isn't very difficult. Just take your time.

Park Tools makes some pretty nice tools to assist. I ended up buying the HHP-2M Steering Race Press and the CRS-2M Steering Tube Bearing Installer. Not really necessary, but it makes the job easier.

If anyone in SoCal wants to borrow them, shoot me a PM.

hth,

Roger

[FJ12Ryder]

Like they've said it isn't too difficult if you take your time and have a little mechanical knowledge. It makes a big

difference in how the bike handles compared to the old ones if they were pretty far gone.

Luck.

[vfr350]

What's the advantage to needles over balls? One in link looks like rollar...

[FJ12Ryder]

IMO needles are superior to balls because of the increased amount of support area.

[ember1205]

The ones in the eBay link are needle bearings. Notice how each roller piece looks like a cylinder and not a sphere.

[TNRabbit]

What's the advantage to needles over balls? One in link looks like rollar...

The AllBalls are actually tapered roller bearings. They provide TONS more surface area & thusly will (in theory) last much longer & take more stress without deforming (notching). Because of that, they have a SLIGHT amount more friction, but I've not noticed it in my application. In fact, the difference between the allballs rollers & my worn out OEM ball bearings is ASTOUNDING. I LOVE the change.

Lots of good advice & links in this thread. Just one caveat: when you seat the bearing on the steering stem, DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE drive on the outer bearing race when installing. Thoroughly stated in this excellent link: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/36-steering-head-bearing-replacement/

[vfr350]

The ones in the eBay link are needle bearings. Notice how each roller piece looks like a cylinder and not a sphere.

I always assoc'd needles as being cageless but didnt find a solid answer on that.

[ember1205]

The ones in the eBay link are needle bearings. Notice how each roller piece looks like a cylinder and not a sphere.

I always assoc'd needles as being cageless but didnt find a solid answer on that.

I think you're right. I just generically have referred to any bearing setup that uses the cylindrical style pieces as needle bearings, but thinking about it now - I recall certain components of lawnmower engines to use actual needle bearings with no cage. These are, in fact, tapered roller bearings.

[YoshiHNS]

The ones in the eBay link are needle bearings. Notice how each roller piece looks like a cylinder and not a sphere.

I always assoc'd needles as being cageless but didnt find a solid answer on that.

Needle bearings are typically cageless. But the All Balls are roller bearings, not needle bearings. Your rear axle is on a needle bearing.

Ball Bearing

Needle Bearing

Roller Bearing

[vfr350]

Load distribution ball vs roller makes sense. Surprised they don't incorporate a zerk somewhere...

[Texfoto]

I was reading the service manual on this and it says, "Always replace the bearings and races as a set."

I want to inspect mine as it is due around now. Does this mean I have to take the cowl off or the handlebars off?

[YoshiHNS]

You shouldn't have to take anything apart to do a rough inspection on the bearings. Weigh down the back of the bike so the front is in the air (while on the center stand) and rotate the handlebars. If they feel rough or notchy, then time to replace. If they make a clicking when you try to lift the triples up and down, time to replace.

[Texfoto]

You shouldn't have to take anything apart to do a rough inspection on the bearings. Weigh down the back of the bike so the front is in the air (while on the center stand) and rotate the handlebars. If they feel rough or notchy, then time to replace. If they make a clicking when you try to lift the triples up and down, time to replace.

Thanks.

[JZH]

Nothing is for free...

Ball bearings have certain characteristics that have made them a fairly universal choice by OEMs for head bearings for dozens of years. The main advantage is that they are very "light" and allow the steering to be easy to turn. But, they can get damaged more easily than tapered roller bearings. Tapered rollers are really designed for heavy loads, which a steering stem does not require, so while they will never get dented races from too many wheelies, they do make steering "heavier" and are harder to adjust properly. Honda has used rollers or balls in its street bikes, depending on the application and whether the bike would (I suppose) benefit from a a "cheapo" steering damper... As a result, and because Honda has only used a handful of different stem bearing dimensions on hundreds of bike models, you can buy both kinds of bearings from a Honda dealer, if you want. Some relevant part numbers are here. Both types of bearings are also bog standard, so can be purchased from many, many aftermarket sources. And, as I seemingly never tire of pointing out, Honda doesn't make bearings!

Ciao,

[CandyRedRC46]

Great info guys. Thanks a bunch. I need to do this upgrade ASAP.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Rush2112]

My All Balls Conversion set for CBR929 triples are going in this weekend!

Let the fun begin

[Guest]

Awesome thanks for all the replys, I'm doing the whole job with my ratchet set, adjustable wrench, screwdriver and Allen set going to find some pipe or similar object to drive out the races. My bearings are totally shot old ball bearings so I just wasn't 100% on the details. Honestly now I can casually take my forks off in probably 15 20 minutes since its my first time driving out anything I idk maybe hour or two longer. Thanks again for all the fast responses.

[YoshiHNS]

Just make sure to drive them out at evenly as possible. You can easily pop them out if you just hammer on one side, but that will risk damaging the seat for the races, and the new ones might not sit as nice and snug.

I've used a long 1/4" rod to knock the races out. Just takes time and patience, and light taps from a big hammer to get started.

[vfr350]

Anyone notice before swapping bearing a ring of blackening dust on the frame below the top bearing cap? This dirty dust run cant be dried grease more like metal wear reminds me of brake dust wondering if its an indicator i should address the bearings. Things seem to be getting progressively uneasy at speeds over say 50.