spud786 Posted January 11, 2014 Author Share Posted January 11, 2014 Well, no luck, cant find anything in there. 3 times, have to call it quits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted January 11, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted January 11, 2014 Hmmmm . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 Even with a break down it just doesn't make any sense . The front one will drain out ... That's interesting, the CCT's are in different places front to rear, could that have something to do with the noisey front? Given the rear CCT is further along the lever, the front would need more spring tension to apply the same amount of force... assuming front & rear CCT are the same part I don't know where that depiction of the VTEC engine comes from... looks like the one floating around they say is of the new 8th gen VFR800F. If you check out the microfiche, the front one is definitely pushing on the extreme end of the guide/lever/shoe/thingy... A picture = 1000 words Well the microfiche drawing is orientated the other way around so you've got to imagine it like this... Either way there's not much oil flow up into that front CCT... not at that angle and location... and there aren't many places the end cap could have disappeared to in there... maybe it wasn't on when the CCT in question was installed previously. I know of someone who did that unkowingly (or too many beers while working on the bike)... he found the cap later under a bench... has reported no issues... although I'm not so sure a chunk of that hard rubber wouldn't cause havock if prying loose and wedging itself bewteen chain and sprocket teeth... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted January 11, 2014 Author Share Posted January 11, 2014 I can tell there is very good oil flow now, Ive taken it out 3 times looking for the cap, its well soaked and noise free . Operation has been perfect other than trying to find the missing cap. The drain out theory has turned out to be a non issue, atleast thus far. Id say that issue would show up very quickly if it was an issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted January 11, 2014 Author Share Posted January 11, 2014 The cap was on when I installed a cct several years ago, also if the cap had been missing in that 70.000 mile period would be some evidence of a mark on the rubber tip, but it was clean. (I looked specificly for that). Unfortunately, the picture is not as simple, I guess in reality, cause I didn't come up with anything. Im sure its in there somewhere, but 3 times pulling a cct Is enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted January 11, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted January 11, 2014 You think it mite have fallen out when you remove it the first time and its under the t-stat housing ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted January 12, 2014 Author Share Posted January 12, 2014 Ive looked down in there , but I kind of doubt it. I think its inside somewhere on the back side of that chain guide, cause its a very narrow fit upon removal and the cap is barely a snug fit, so the cap catches and falls off , it falls off very easy. Happened to me the last time I pulled the cct, but the cap was sitting right on the guide at point of contact. I noticed last time I installed it, I thought man that's not very snug, should have glued it. as soon as It came out of the hole this time I looked to see if the cap was there, and it wasn't, so I doubt it fell off after getting out of the hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted January 12, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted January 12, 2014 10-4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted January 12, 2014 Author Share Posted January 12, 2014 I think the issue is trying to make the magnet tool travel the back side of the guide. the guide is flexible and will tilt one way or the other and your magnet will then drop into the gap and enter where the chain actually is. Keep in mind as soon as you enter the cct Hole, there is a left hand hard left turn . I think this turn creates issue with maintaining travel down the back side of the guide. Ive stuck the magnet in far enough, but just not picking up anything. I think using TUBING with a magnet duct taped might be better, I think anything metal, is going to have the flaw issue, of dropping off the back side of the guide and falling into a crevice gap by not being flexible enough (is a pretty open area, not just a narrow passage). My guess the Cap is all the way down at the bottom of the back side of the guide. If I could have gotten that Big snake tool in there its big enough to travel the whole way, with out risk if falling off the guide. So I think too small of magnet is an issue with falling in gaps along the guide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 You need a directional snake magnet... like endoscopes are directional... hey... an endoscope would help locate it / confirm it's actually there... drop her off at the local hospital... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rice Posted January 13, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted January 13, 2014 Here is the snake I used. No manufacturer name - Just picked up the first thing in the local auto store. Diameter of the magnetic head is 17mm. If memory serves, I incerted it about 7 inches until it reached the cap. And there appears to only be one place for the cap to settle - At the bottom of the channel bove the chain guide. I've tested this theory repeatedly because I kept dropping the cap while trying to position it to enter the hole. I'd caution against ad-hoc solutions with tubing and small magnets. A small magnet can get attached to something ferrous other than the cap or just fall off the tube and filter down into the engine and srew something up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beck Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 As you have run the engine since dropping the cap down there, could the vibration and movement of the cam chain guide caused it to wedge tight against the guide and the cylinder head casing and maybe why the tool is not picking it up? Are you feeling anything at all that's attracting the magnetic head of the snake tool? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted January 15, 2014 Author Share Posted January 15, 2014 The diameter of my Big snake is 13mm, the length though was like 60mm , if it was a 10mm shorter it probably would have worked. Just toolong to make that hard turn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 The diameter of my Big snake is 13mm, the length though was like 60mm , if it was a 10mm shorter it probably would have worked. Just toolong to make that hard turn "That's what she said" Sorry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted January 15, 2014 Author Share Posted January 15, 2014 Before I ran the motor I used a magnet that went atleast 5 or 6 inches or so and couldn't pick anything up, that's why I ordered the snake. Rices cap maybe didn't fall all the way down, but yeah at this point mine is all the way down I suspect, and may be wedged to where a smaller magnet cant get it.. As to your question can I feel anything, its hard to tell, cause have had the small magnet go off the side if the guide and enter the chain area, and attach, and I try to center it and yeah occasionally I hit something but it doesn't budge, I do think the large snake, if you can get it in, will track the guide better and also have more pulling power too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyB Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 The diameter of my Big snake is 13mm, the length though was like 60mm , if it was a 10mm shorter it probably would have worked. Just toolong to make that hard turn "That's what she said" Sorry It had to be done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 This was the easiest way I found to change the CCT without throttle body removal....trying to cut corners just took more time: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/76-cam-chain-tensioner-without-throttle-body-removal/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted February 5, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted February 5, 2014 You only enlarge the hole in the gasket and NOT the in the CCT right spud786 ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted February 6, 2014 Author Share Posted February 6, 2014 Yeah, I made the hole in the gasket right between 2.5mm and 3mm (2.75mm) that seems just right. yours making noise? you'll see the gasket is only about a .5mm pin hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted February 6, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted February 6, 2014 Yeah, I made the hole in the gasket right between 2.5mm and 3mm (2.75mm) that seems just right. yours making noise? you'll see the gasket is only about a .5mm pin hole. Yeah mostly when the outside temp below 30 degree's . I'm not cheap but don't like to waste money on something that a simple solution can fix . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted February 6, 2014 Author Share Posted February 6, 2014 why is that tensioner missing the retaining ring? I don't think oil flow is the whole issue, but it should help a lot on the front. I had a rear tentioner go out at 90,000 miles and the rear is normally flooded with oil, it was actually knocking more than rattling. After getting it out, did I see anything obviously wrong? NOpe Ofcourse presently I have a combo of factors changed, new tentioner, no cap and increased oil flow. very quite , no noise. several years ago there was someone who said they removed the cap and had no more noise, but that was never widespread tested with an existing noisey tentioner. I may eventually order a cap, and take one more shot at finding the missing cap. course I have to spend another $20 on a different type snake if I come across one.. but if the cap comes out with your tentioner, Id look at glueing it on. The risk of losing is about 75% chance. I think BR has replaced several tentioners, Id be will to bet he's lost a cap. ask him Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted February 6, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted February 6, 2014 That's from a previous post where the guy was going to disassemble the CCT. It was a good pic of the oil hole to the CCT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted February 6, 2014 Author Share Posted February 6, 2014 Theres one in port and two out ports, one on each side Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lint Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 Sorry to come in on the end of the conversation. So, enlarging the gasket makes a difference? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted February 12, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted February 12, 2014 Theres one in port and two out ports, one on each side Is the metal cover in this photo still on or is it off ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.