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New Cct With Enlarged 2.75Mm Oil Port


spud786

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So if you suspect its oil drain or supply is what causes the wear, why not swap the front & rear tensioners at the first sign of noise on the front ! If the noise doesn't move to the rear cct then you will have proved your theory !

You could do that(alot of work) , but if you look at the amount of people whove installed brand new front tentioners and shortly afterwards , they begin making noise again, its pretty obvious there's something directly related to the front issue, much more so than the rear, and I wouldnt label it as obvious wear. Usually you cant see anything obviously wrong.

Obviously wear is not going to be an issue with a brand new tentioner, yet in many cases brand new front tentioners will still begin to rattle not far down the road. Winter time and cold weather tends to aide in bringing out the tentioner noise issues also.

I guess a good question for everyone would be how long after installing a new front tention did it begin to make noise again?

Yep .....

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A strong magnet helps if you will be making your own magnetic pickup tool, try to find "rare earth" type magnets which are like ten times more powerful than regular magnets so you don't have to physically place the magnet right on the object you are fishing for. Just get it near enough, and it will pull itself hard towards the item......

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I don't recall the brand of mine, but THIS one looks like it should do fine

61XHIGowm9L._SL1500_.jpg

This is the one I ended up ordering the other day, I really couldnt find anything better, hopefully its nice skinny and long. With something like this you should be able to twist it and keep it going straight on the path. I think that was the issue with bending my telescopic type, you can only bend it one direction Once. It costed me about $18 shipped

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So, if I understand correctly, the latest theory is that the cam chains interacting with the tensioner rails are producing some sort of vibration/resonance that shakes and rattles the spring and plunger assembly in the tensioner to produce the "bad" CCT noise that people are hearing...and that the noise does not necessarily mean that the tensioner is worn out and needs replacement??

So in other words, the tensioner noise is something similar to what dry clutch noise is on Ducatis and not a real mechanical problem......

What is so frustrating with things like these is there never seems to be a final, definite diagnosis on the problem (which is similar to all the RR and Stator problems we've been encountering with VFRs) and what really needs to happen is for Honda to "man up" to it and apply some of their engineering to investigate what the heck is happening once and for all as they did when the VFs were haveing cam problems in the 80's...... Maybe they can actually finally learn how to design proper CCT's that will stay quite for their owners once and for all (My dad had noisy CCT problems with most of his Hondas even way back to the 70's).

Heck, if they can design oval piston engines, Walking/talking humanoid robots and Formula 1 cars and engines,............. a measly thing like a CCT would be peanuts in comparison!.....

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My magnetic cattle prod came in, its alittle bigger than expected, hope it works. As it wouldnt be nice to tear it back down and come up empty for the steel cap. On a side note, so far bike has been very very quiet thus far. I havent decided whether to use the cap or not, I guess I'll see if the rubber tip is showing any wear, first. But if I do use the cap, I kinda want to glue that sucker on.

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I would have multiple options, I hope that will work but the head looks to big but the magnet might be strong enough to extract it.


Hey some current pic's of the modified CCT .

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Magnet strength shouldnt be an issue, this magnet holds 4 lbs, but even my small telescopic magnet is more than adaquate if it had found the cap. I actually use the small magnet to install screws in the holes, keep in mind I dont remove any engine components like the airbox, so im working in a very tiny area. I use dental floss to keep the gasket on while lowering into the slot, pop in the screws, one thread, cut the floss and thread it out. Its a pain, but a nicessity to disturb as little as possible.

You could glue the gasket on and avoid the floss I suppose, I'll take a pic or 2.

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If you want to fish the cap out, you would need to remove the air box. I think that it will be easier this way.

The problem there is that the cap is almost identical diameter as the opening for the CCT. It is easy enough to get it to just under the opening, but then you need 4 hands to actually get it out. At least that's been my experience.

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The magnet was too long to make the turn after entering the hole, even if removing the airbox , you'd really have to force it and may not of got it back out, espcially with the cap attached.

I wish Id of just not bothered , the cap is happy , and just more pain for nothing. there was no wear on the rubber tip.

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If you want to fish the cap out, you would need to remove the air box. I think that it will be easier this way.

The problem there is that the cap is almost identical diameter as the opening for the CCT. It is easy enough to get it to just under the opening, but then you need 4 hands to actually get it out. At least that's been my experience.

Ive had the cap fall off before, but it was sitting right there in the hole, I just grabbed it with a pair of needle nose, just an FYI for everyone, Ive pulled two differnt front tentioners and the cap fell off both times(recovered it the first time), thats a pretty high precentage rate of losing the cap.

But if I could have just gotten the cap in the area, I could have used a differnt tool or magnet, unfortunately that cattle prod magnet was way bigger than the picture looked, the magnet itself was (correction) 2 and 1/2 inches long, if it had beem shorter, it would have easily made the turn.

post-6784-0-18629700-1387917348.jpg

post-6784-0-84978700-1387917370.jpg

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The magnet was too long to make the turn after entering the hole, even if removing the airbox , you'd really have to force it and may not of got it back out, espcially with the cap attached.

I wish Id of just not bothered , the cap is happy , and just more pain for nothing. there was no wear on the rubber tip.

I was afraid of that that's why I told you about the piano wire and computer hard drive magnets. I have personally seen it work in very tight areas.

Rubber tip looks Ok.

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I hear ya, if there was a smaller magnet of that type it would have been okay, but it was actually bigger than the original retail picture. Attempting a make shift rig with harddrive magnets and piano wire or some such may work(but you need to be able to drive it through directional, a long skinny coil spring would work to thread through, with magnets well attached, but I dont have anything like that readily available, and what if that got tangled up or or piece broke.I felt a true built snake magnet was the safest choice.

That rubber tip picture was from the old tentioner, but the tip didnt really show any marking thus far on the new one, which is a a good sign compared to instant disentigration wear. But Id say 40 or 50,00 miles there will be a good mark atleast.

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Its really strong stuff, much stronger material than say Oring or rubber gasket material. Someone mentioned its the same rubber stuff the actual cam chain rides against.

I cut one apart , which wasnt easy, and about 5mm of rubber removal runs straight into a steel shaft, so if the rubber did somehow split of fail, it wouldnt be catastrophic.

I found a small snake magnetic tool , much much smaller(very skinny) than the one I bought, and its near the same length, about $12 shipped from tooltopia.com

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