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Veefer Madness


paladinreed

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Well, what began as a pretty modest build/parts list has gone irreversibly mad. I mean. It is really out of hand.

I guess I can only blame this crazy bout of cabin fever I've got.

Here is how the bike sits right now.

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That's where she sits. PAIR removal and brake de-link are next.

I have so many questions at the moment it isn't even funny. I'm just going to throw a few out there and let the hive mind do its thing (or more likely summa you nice son's a' guns might sound off)

1. Anyone know what the top triple nut size is? 33mm? I need to go get a socket tomorrow the proper size to remove it.

2. Easy way to bleed the entire braking system without a speed bleeder without making a gigantic mess.

3. Im wanting to run solid brake discs as opposed to something drilled. Does anyone know a company who manufactures these types of rotors?

4. Rear caliper and master upgrade? I'd like to know my options here.

These are all I can think of off the top of my noggin. There will be more questions to come no doubt.

In the meantime, Happy Holidays to all. Hope Santa brings you a buncha shite that goes vroom or boom!

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#2- I don't think it is worth trying to bleed out the fluid. I just took my whole system apart without a bleed and it was not bad at all. Just keep it off the paint.

Keep up the progress! ,

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IMAG1131_zps5c1227bf.jpg

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Front end is almost ready to go on.

This is how she currently sits.

wol_error.gif This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.

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This is the mock up of the 06 gsxr600 stuff. Need to lose 1mm on the OD of the top bearing and it will plop right in Im hoping.

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Not using any of this terrible linked brake stuff. Thank god. It weighs a ton! PAIR removal coming next.

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And last but not least I got this sexy thing waiting to go on.

wol_error.gif This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.

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Report this image wol_error.gif This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.

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#2- I don't think it is worth trying to bleed out the fluid. I just took my whole system apart without a bleed and it was not bad at all. Just keep it off the paint.

Keep up the progress! ,

Thanks this got me movin'.

1. 30mm
2. Mityvac
3. No. And why?
4. Other that have de-linked ha e used a CBR rear master.

Thanks for the shout Seb. To answer number 3. It is mostly aesthetic, I know many race bikes run a solid rotor (granted they are generally carbon) but I like the look and was feeling out options for rotors other than/stock/wave rotors.

I've seen the CBR used by some people and that's probably the route I will take, Might try and adapt another caliper down the road sometime.

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As I look over the build I can't help but wonder about the angle of the subframe. Did you work that out with a seat mounted and the wheels on the ground? Then sit on it? I hope it is worked out but it just looks to high. I am not referencing the whole look thing and that whole angle debate. I am just wondering, does it work for a person to ride the motorcycle?

I know you got it all covered but I just wanted to toss that out there.

Great progress!

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I think i'm using a gsxr 750 rear master - it had the correct mount spacing, but it's not quite perfect. Its a little stiff and wooden, but i need to adjust the pedal height properly.

Not overly concerned, it works well enough to hold the bike still at traffic lights and on hills, and steady the bike in slow speed traffic, so it's not an issue for me at the moment. It's 12 or 14mm, much better than the OEM 17mm.

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The tail height will be fine tuned with the shock mount adapter and the 929 shock is adjustable as well. It might be a bit too high at the moment but its pretty close. The fact that it was mocked on the stand and then without the tank or exhaust in those pics make it look extreme.

The bike in the back ground is a 2007 Honda ruckus

Also, Keef how did you mount your bar risers for the dirty bars? Do you have any pics? This 06 top triple seems unsuited for drilling safely for the risers. Wondering how much difference is between the k4/5 and k6 top triple.

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What do you mean unsuited?

I didn't drill mine myself, the front end came with the top yoke already drilled for risers, I bought if off another ASF member. No tricks to it though, it just had two holes drilled through it, no extra welding to bulk it up, it's been fine for years.

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What do you mean unsuited?

I didn't drill mine myself, the front end came with the top yoke already drilled for risers, I bought if off another ASF member. No tricks to it though, it just had two holes drilled through it, no extra welding to bulk it up, it's been fine for years.

Unsuited as in the cast has the ignition hoop and the mounting.points for the tumbler and thus it looks like the spacing is off to safely drill the yolk for risers. I'm guessing the top clamp is a bit different between the two models. But ill try to figure something out

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Mine has the ignition loop cut off, and I relocated the key to the rear bodywork, first off using the OEM key zip tied to the subframe, then using a small generic key set into the right hand side of the bodywork.

If it won't work, you'll have to get some custom made billet yokes. Bummer.

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  • 3 weeks later...
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I had a feeling that's what you were up to when you mentioned coming from the BMW scene :) Will be neat to see how it flows with the overall look. I just worry they don't have enough bling ;)

What are the wheel dimensions?

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Haha yeah they are super bling. I have another look in mind. I'll mount it and see how I like it for a while. If it's too much I'll break it down and powder it all another finish. Just can't bring myself to powder those beautiful lips.

As for flow from front to back wheel there will be none besides surface finish heh... This is definitely a performance modification but it is mostly just something I've wanted to do since I got the vfr.

17x6

et10~15 (need final weight and offset figures)

Michelin Pilot Power 190/55

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  • 2 weeks later...
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The front end is ready save for proper bolts for the bar risers. Ended up using an ALLBALLSracing conversion bearing that worked like a peach.

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Did PAIR removal and just a touch of cleaning

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This is how I ended up plugging the airbox, with a 5/8 vaccum cap

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The bike is going to be put together and ridden for a couple hundred miles before the final teardown so Im hopin I can at least have it rideable by March.

The SV650 radiator is going to be easy Im thinking and looking at Keef's front mount I'm having to go aftermarket for the oil cooler. Wondering about the easiest options there.

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That's looking awesome, mate!

Glad it went it fairly easily. What bearings did you end up using? Did you have to massage them to get them to fit?

Look for a an oil cooler that is right dimensions, with universal fittings. That way, you can cut off the Vfr engine side oil line fittings, and have them crimped to new lines with universal fittings on the end, rather than what I did - crimping the Vfr engine fittings on to new lines, and then attaching those to a small portion of the OEM hard lines to fit the sp1 cooler. It works well, but was a pain in the arse and looks a a bit messy.

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One thing I feel is an issue in the VFR side mounted rads...the higher revs at the track mean high coolant temps...my bike has puked at the track before. Hope the SV radiator has improved airflow and cooling effectiveness. Is the cm2 area about the same? Apologize for not going back through the thread if you already did it...

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That's looking awesome, mate!

Glad it went it fairly easily. What bearings did you end up using? Did you have to massage them to get them to fit?

Look for a an oil cooler that is right dimensions, with universal fittings. That way, you can cut off the Vfr engine side oil line fittings, and have them crimped to new lines with universal fittings on the end, rather than what I did - crimping the Vfr engine fittings on to new lines, and then attaching those to a small portion of the OEM hard lines to fit the sp1 cooler. It works well, but was a pain in the arse and looks a a bit messy.

Thanks bubba. The bearing was perfect retrofit. I believe it was a 47/30/12 and Im using a washer to float on top of the bearing to take up the extra 3mm to flush it up with the top of the neck, then dust caps/lock nuts etc etc. Just in case this information hasn't been passed on in a link form. It is invaluable:

http://www.allballsracing.com/index.php/forkconversion

The oil cooler will be a project for next month and I've yet to look into it too much. I've never had to recrimp oil lines, what's involved?

Lastly, anyone thinking about using this front end be warned. If you want to run risers expect to modify the hell out of the top triple clamp. I spent about 2 hours grinding to chop off the ignition bolt mounts and flushing it up so the riser washer/bolt could sit flush on the bottom side. And there is very little room to play with. I'll see if I can toss up a pic.

One thing I feel is an issue in the VFR side mounted rads...the higher revs at the track mean high coolant temps...my bike has puked at the track before. Hope the SV radiator has improved airflow and cooling effectiveness. Is the cm2 area about the same? Apologize for not going back through the thread if you already did it...

I had measurements of the sv rad back a couple of pages but I'll get exact measurements that illustrate the cooling area between the two rad set-ups sometime. Needless to say, as proven again by a few of the fellas here running them, the front mount are tremendously more efficient in design.

The sv650 rad is also about 3/8 of an inch thicker than the vfr side rads and roughly 30-40% bigger the size of one. I don't see it having any problems and it will eliminate a TON of extra hoses and whatnot the stock rads require. The rad only has an inlet and outlet and a predrilled bung for a coolant temp sensor I'm hoping to use.

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Couple more of the wheel. Can't seem to get enough of it.

Also, dismounted the stock oil cooler so that I could more easily mock up the front mount radiator. It is wider than the frame by about 2 inches on each side, but that isn't to say that it is a wide rad. I think it will do well and tuck away behind the 1125cr intakes nicely. Remains to be seen.

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Also, here are a couple shots of the risers and the required modification to the k6 600 top triple.

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Good stuff :) Two questions, do you have any idea if the bottom of the rad is going to interfere with the front wheel? Also, are you going to reinforce the backside of the upper triple for the riser mounts?

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Good stuff :) Two questions, do you have any idea if the bottom of the rad is going to interfere with the front wheel? Also, are you going to reinforce the backside of the upper triple for the riser mounts?

I'll be able to get better travel measurements when the front end is back on. This radiator is pretty darn narrow and I'm convinced I'll have tons of room for full suspension travel.

The triple was a solid cast thankfully so I was able to cut/grind/flatten it enough to get a washer and nut on the bottom side flush. It was a pita however but I think it will be plenty strong. If I have to do it again, or perhaps just down the road I'll get a custom billet top clamp made up with beefy riser mounts. In the meantime this one will just get blasted and powdered.

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My TLR rad is 140 or 150mm high, and is tucked up nice and tight under the headstock like yours Reed. It sits about 20mm above the cutout in the front cylinder head. Even using almost all the suspension travel because the springs are too soft, I haven't had any issues. As long as it sits above the cutout in the cylinder, it should be fine. If anything, the wheel will hit the engine before the wheel hits the rad.

I've had no probs with mine though, so you should be sweet. I also rode in heavy traffic in 35 celsius, stop/start traffic, slow moving traffic, and faster freeway stuff. The front rad was beautiful, never got over 101 degrees C. The fan kicked on and off like it was supposed to and kept temps in check.

One thing i've noticed (after reading some threads on here) is that my front end has given me too much trail, so it steers a bit slow. I'll need to raise the back/lower the front, or just use a 120/60 front tyre instead of a 120/70 like i usually do.

Just something for you to keep in mind.

Yours is looking good.

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Thanks Keef. Excited to see how the rad does. I honestly don't know if I will remount a rad fan right away or not. The oil cooler I plan on using will have almost 3 times the surface area of the stocker which might also be helpful.

In other news the wheel face is now done in the final powder. It's called tin foil and has a really fine texture. Final cap, emblem, and bolt scheme will hopefully come after this weekend. I'm hoping to have a friend render the bike and wheel in a few color schemes all mocked up in photoshop so stay tuned.

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Lastly, what's the word on aftermarket clutch master cylinders? Can I essentially get a hold of any MC that has the same specifications as the stock one? This is one of the many areas of the bike where I've had to seek out some suggestions. Thanks guys

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