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Vfr8 Streetfighter


keef

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still no updates - my arm is pretty effed.

had a full cast from knuckles to elbow for 6 weeks. Cast is off now, but been to physio for the last few weeks. I have a splint that i need to keep on for another 3 weeks. Surgeons want me to take it slow because if it doesnt heal properly there isnt much bone left to work with. it popped into 5 pieces, not really a clean break in any sense.

Not a "woe is me" tale, just the reason why i haven't gotten around to fitting the rad.

New MT09 has had suspension tweeked and getting ready to be delivered. Then I'll have 2 bikes in the garage that I can't ride.

Jealous of the progress on yours, Reed. And Thanks, Hogan.

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I ran across this build on the australian streetfighter forum and it looked like you tried a few different radiator shroud ideas. I couldn't see anything more than a thumbnail though as the site said I didn't have permission to open images even after registering. Do you mind sharing them here?

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are you keeping the side mounts?

the only ones ive used with the side mounts were the er6n ones, once i had the TLR rad, i didnt use any - nothing looked quite right.

which one do you want to see?

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never actually fitted either of them. Any pics i have are the shrouds taped into place - the er6n shrouds are the only ones i ever mounted.

the drz ones looked great from the side, not so good from the front.

the hyper shrouds weren't quite right either. Which sucked, because i was so sure they were right i bought a set in carbon.

My new rad is only 350mm wide (TLR was 450) so once it's mounted I'll start again.

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  • 4 months later...
  • Member Contributer

HI, keef.

I would like to know the reason of the two shields on rads (n°1 and n°3). Are not a too big protection limiting the air flow?

The hose (n°2) are closed or if is connected to cooling circuit?

Ciao, Luigi

gallery_8326_4351_56731.jpg

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the two guards were just to protect from stones, it is a nomex honeycomb, very light, flexible, can cut it with a razor, but very strong, front to back. It didn't block any air.

like this.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Honeycomb-Radiator-Protector-19-x-26-Inch,3545.html

The oil cooler guard is zip tied on, the rad guard has some bolts through it into the fan mounting points on the rad. You can paint it, too.

and number 3, that hose is blocked off. The TLR rad system has an upper and lower rad, I was only using the top rad, so i blocked the second outlet.

Standard TLR-

filler cap right side.

25mm inlet top left

19mm outlet bottom left and bottom right.

Modified to suit the vfr-

filler cap right side (same)

moved 25mm inlet from top left to top right.

plugged bottom right outlet

used outlet bottom left.

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Great!

I tought that the coolers protection was made with something like the paper used for air filter, not a specific protection.

This is the first time that i see something of this kind, it can be useful for every-day use on many motorcycles.

Thanks for the info.

Ciao, Luigi.

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It's great stuff

Very strong front to back, you can't crush the ends of the tubes together.

Flexible side to side, you can squeeze the sides of the tubes. It also makes more air flow through the rad.

Once the air hits the honeycomb tubes, it HAS to go through the rad- it can't go around or over it.

Without it, air can slide above or below it, rather than through.

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  • 2 months later...

Been doing a few things lately to get it ready for a track day with my brother.

New custom front mount rad is on.

ER6N headlight is on.

ZX14 radial clutch MC

gsxr radial brake MC (which i was told was zx14, part of a pair), but the zx14 shorty levers i bought only fit the clutch. Until i filed it to shape. Lucky i already had a gsxr MC and lever to use as a template!

new rear brake reservoir.

new clutch slave cylinder.

new front indicators (just small, bright strips on the handguards

And plastidipped the tank matte black.

Definitely need new tyres before the track day. 3 year old pirelli rosso 2's wont cut it.

Took this pic after i rolled it outside to dry in the sun - its about 35 celsius here, and its only spring.

post-28591-0-26832500-1444098526.jpg

post-28591-0-76665800-1444098558.jpgpost-28591-0-23893800-1444098571.jpg

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Brackets. Top one made by a mate who can bend thicker stainless than me, tweaked and painted by me. Bottom ones are ally offcuts from work filed into shape and painted by me.

post-28591-0-90624900-1444198092.jpgpost-28591-0-16373200-1444198110.jpg

a few of the rad. i painted all the mounting points black so they would dissappear into shadow, all you could see easily would be the shiny rectangular rad, no brackets. Its a 42mm core, small, but 2.5 times thicker than OEM

post-28591-0-38947900-1444198124.jpgpost-28591-0-20615200-1444198131.jpgpost-28591-0-37294400-1444198139.jpg

and the top view, no wider than the frame.

post-28591-0-45555500-1444198149.jpg

I'll need to take one from front on.

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Candy, the 1098S rear wheel weighs almost nothing, and first eh 5th gen arm ridiculously easy. Seat and subframe are pretty easy, too - widths are pretty much the same.

Reed, pics of the rad OK?

I had it made to suit the TLR hose set up i already had (inlet/outlet sizes) but had an nipple for the VFR self bleeding air hose added. Its also thread for a temp sensor, but i'm not running a fan, so i just have a bung screwed in to that.

After seb posted pics of his 4th gen, its made it a little bit more embarrassing to post up my rough and ready pics, you know?

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  • Member Contributer

Rough and ready is slow but surely.

Sebs bike is sweet but it's a gen 4. And there are just so fewer gen 5 fighters that I think your set up is special.

Definitely think the custom sizing on that front mount is the way to go. Nice and tidy. And I don't think you'll need a fan. I have yet to break 102 degrees C without one on my front sv650 set up. I run engine ice and that thing only gets that high when I'm really letting it sit in traffic at high temps. Just love the clean custom job tho.

I'll be watching as always. Pics of the track day will be required. Thank you.

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Yep correct, pics on one of the earlier pages.

And subframe was pretty easy too, width is pretty much the same.

Cut mounting tabs off old Subbie.

Weld them to new Subbie.

Top rail is unchanged, I think the bottom rail has an extra 50 mm added to it. I'll take some pics tonight.

The ninja 250 subframe is steel, from memory.. I had a mate wrecking one, he cut the subframe off, and I took the lot - seats, subbie, plastics, lights, battery tray, the lot.

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No probs, it's nice seeing things that I've done (sometimes in a half arsed way) redone and improved upon by others.

We basically just slid the seat down the tank until the concave curve in the seat matched the convex curve of the tank.

Matched up really well, and made the seat 40mm higher or so- I'm tall, so it worked well for me.

I was thinking about quite a few smaller cc tails, but the little ninja came up cheap.

Without shortening the actual tail, it's about 150mm shorter than the 5th gen tail, but still has full size rider and pillion seats.

Do it.

Oh, I also got the battery box, etc.

using a motobatt battery that fits in the ninja 250 battery box, and no probs at all.

When this battery dies, I'll go lithium for more weight savings.

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  • Member Contributer

Hey Keef

Neat fighter and great details on the Ducati wheel conversion.

Wish I'd found it before I embarked on my RC45 conversion.

Keep up the good work.

Cheers

Phil

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