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Air Fuel Mixture Screw Location, Third Gen


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Looking for the air fuel mixture screw on my third gen and I can't find them to save my life...can someone either

a. post a pic

or

b. give me good directions to it? thanks

also, I was getting gas out of the two 'overflow' tubes on the back side of the carbs with the bike running. I checked the float needles and cleaned all of them again, and just for grins checked the float level. Only one I could measure as 'off'.

What would cause gas out the 'overflow' tubes? stuck needle?

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^^so I went back in to them while I was waiting for an re, and I think I found the float...I believe it was no. 2. that was the one with the low float level too. I pulled all the float needles and went back over them more thoroughly than I did before, did some other work to the bike I wanted done and rolled her outside. Started her up, let her run for probably 15 mins while I cleaned up and saw no indication that there was fuel coming from anywhere (I was getting burn off of the fuel on the lh side of the engine before). So, here is hoping to that issue being corrected.

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Did you download the service manual? IIRC, my front left carb has the air mixture screw pointing left and slightly rearward, and parallel to the ground. Wierd thing is, the screw has a lock on it, so the most you can rotate the screw is 3/4 of a turn. I assume this is another silly CA regulation.

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I didn't download one as I have a slow connection, but have the 'supplement' for this bike and I couldn't for the life of me find this thing. Usually, they are on the bottom of the carb,but I couldn't find even the cover Honda usually has over it to keep someone out before it's adjusted. I'd like to find it as I think she is rich on start up.

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Mixture screws hide behind little brass block off plated the factory installs. Look for tiny brass circles near the engine side. As a rule screws on the sirbox side control air and nearer to the engine control gas. This adjustment will only affect idle. Also, if your float needle arrangement is good and you still have issues, the actual float can become saturated and heavy. One last trick: if it overflows right after you replace the carbs, whack each one with a mallet to seat the needle.

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A carb scync might help that, too. Although I think in the manual it says in order to scync correctly you need to have the correct A/F mixture, but then to set the A/F mixture correctly, you need to have balanced carbs. Very helpful.

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Now all the little tricks are coming back to me. If anyone has a pic, it would help. Like I said, carbs are back on, and if no leaking, I'll leave them alone. Yes, A/F is for 0 to ~ 3500 rpms, needle from 3500 to about 8000rpms and main jet would be above that. That, at least, is how we use to interpret the dyno sheets and tune when I did it in San Diego. Never had to hunt this hard for A/F screws though.

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Spend a night and download the Factory Service Manual from here. I think it's the last page of the manual section.

A carb scync might help that, too. Although I think in the manual it says in order to scync correctly you need to have the correct A/F mixture, but then to set the A/F mixture correctly, you need to have balanced carbs. Very helpful.

Not entirely true. Your sync isn't entirely changing your A/F. All of your carbs should be set the same (except where they have different jets on the inside or back for cooling/smart engineer reasons), which means that they should be flowing the same amount of fuel to the amount they are drawing in. The sync is to set so the carbs draw/flow the same amount of air. So in a sense, the A/F is set with needles/jets/pilots, and the volume moved is set with the sync.

For the mixture screw, they are a slightly indented circle. More of a D shape than a circle. If you don't have a tool for it and can't make something work, you could go down to the hardware store for some tubing and hammer/crimp it in a bit.

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$T2eC16R,!ysE9sy0iIU4BQrc3wg(zg~~60_35.J

Do you see that thing sticking up where there's a 'U' cutout on the float bowls? That's the pilot screw. It looks like a circle with a small flat, sort of like a D.

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mine does not have that. That's the typical Honda D shaped pilot screw. I believe I found it today though. On no. 1 and 3, they can be adjusted to 1.25 turns, but 2 and 4 they only adjust .75 of a turn and incorporate a slotted screw that you can use a straight screw driver on.

service manual, page 121, number 23 is what I finally found out. Nothing like I've ever seen on a bike before.

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