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Stator Bbq Fix


Auspanglish

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I'm gonna fit an air conditioning unit on mine!!!

3 fried stators on at least 3 6th generation VFRs at around 100-120,000 km among close riding buddies.. Some of you may feel it's normal or acceptable to consider it a consumable item.

I beg to differ. And seeing as I do the work myself and source the parts at excellent prices it's not such a financial hurdle for me as it is for those without the skills and tools. 1,200€ a pop at an official Honda dealers is not within a context I personally consider "consumable".

3x 1,200€ = 3,600€

You can buy a second hand 5th gen in good condition for that much and they only tend to fry R/Rs.

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I'm gonna fit an air conditioning unit on mine!!!

3 fried stators on at least 3 6th generation VFRs at around 100-120,000 km among close riding buddies.. Some of you may feel it's normal or acceptable to consider it a consumable item.

I beg to differ. And seeing as I do the work myself and source the parts at excellent prices it's not such a financial hurdle for me as it is for those without the skills and tools. 1,200€ a pop at an official Honda dealers is not within a context I personally consider "consumable".

3x 1,200€ = 3,600€

You can buy a second hand 5th gen in good condition for that much and they only tend to fry R/Rs.

Is your repaired now ? I thought you were sending your's off to be rewound.

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The people who more time use the VTEC region (above 7000 rpm) is who more BBQs celebrates . I.e.: people who ride a lot on track, fast in the road, etc: Auspañol :wink: , Kepa , Valen, etc. . People who ride calmly with motorcycle breaks less: el_Jau , me, etc. . This is statistical , but why ?
The alternator is heated by two phenomena :
1 - . The copper losses , which depend on the intensity of the current supplied (Amperes) .
2 - . The iron losses, that are frequency dependent and this increases with rpm.
I've taken some electrical measurements on the yellow wires from the output of the stator.
This is the current flowing in said wires to different rpm ( = copper losses ) :
Rpm -> E ( V ) -> I ( A)
1200 -> 12.7 -> 20
5000 - > 10 -> 30
7000 -> 10.2 -> 31
atuma6e9.jpg
This is the frequency of the voltage and current generated by the 12 poles alternator at different rpm ( = the iron losses)
rpm -> f (Hz )
1200 -> 120
5000 -> 500
7000 -> 700
Nothing new: more rpm -> more heat that we have to evacuate of the alternator. The proposals that have been done here are very interesting. We'll see how they work.
My new proposal to use "shunt regulator" is as follows :
1 - To Reduce power consumption 1/3 by using LED.
2 - To Use a battery of 14 Ah .
3 - To Install a monitoring system to measure and control, in real time onboard, the state of charge (SOC) of the battery: How about Arduino microcontrollers?
4 - The control system will disconnect the alternator from 100% to 60% of the SOC. The bike will run only with battery. This will allow the cooling of the windings in the stator: we will not have copper losses.
6 - When the SOC = 60 % , connect, with a relay, the alternator and charge the battery and feed the rest of the bike systems .
The idea would be just to use the alternator at intervals and not all the time. To see who dares to develop
Vss

Comment on a couple of points:

The more load you slay the system, more load should dispel the regulator.

For the regulator does not work forced, we already have the series regulator.

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True there's been a couple series here with the vfr, and a couple have failed, that's near 100%, but on the Harley side of things, Ive seen some go through several aftermarket series style, via warranty. The name eludes me , buts its the aftermarket one that's been raved about, the most.

I don't really see the heat issue, with the 6th gen RR, but I also run a larger battery and run an electrical device or two, as a norm( imo opinion that quelches any real excess shunting), and why at worst I see luke warm nakid hand heat off the oem rr. I think BR has over 100,000 miles on his oem stator, which I thought that was amazing, and much more than expected one could hold up that long..

Many have done those HID conversions, if those are consuming less energy , some might be creating their own demise (shunt wise).

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I'm gonna fit an air conditioning unit on mine!!!

3 fried stators on at least 3 6th generation VFRs at around 100-120,000 km among close riding buddies.. Some of you may feel it's normal or acceptable to consider it a consumable item.

I beg to differ. And seeing as I do the work myself and source the parts at excellent prices it's not such a financial hurdle for me as it is for those without the skills and tools. 1,200€ a pop at an official Honda dealers is not within a context I personally consider "consumable".

3x 1,200€ = 3,600€

You can buy a second hand 5th gen in good condition for that much and they only tend to fry R/Rs.

Is your repaired now ? I thought you were sending your's off to be rewound.

Hello Hello ...

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Just thought I'd add my first stator just fried at 58,000 miles in 3 1/2 years. Threw in a new Ricks unit with their new R/R. Put in a new Yuasa after the stator BBQ flat killed the Ballistic unit. All is well again. Compared to many I seem to have gotten a good life from my stator, but if our cars had "consumable" alternators I don't think we would tolerate it. If the Ricks components last as long I guess I "should" be happy.

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Car alternators are force air cooled & typically last the life of the car. Yes some burn out sooner, but as with most things in life, most failures are caused by under or cheap engineering. If a device ala a car/bike has a warranty period, then all the manufacturer is interested in is making the part as cheap as possible that will exceed the warranty period without failure, after that they don't care.

Most people have a mistaken belief that manufacturers make things because they can or want to & do a quality job !

The reality is that most things are made because they can sell them & they only do it to make money, if they engineered them to last 50 years, they would run out of sales & go bust, as few could afford to buy them.

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100,000 miles would be great . I wonder if anyone here has made it to 100,000 miles ?

On my last Honda Accord, the alternator went out at 190k miles.

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100,000 miles would be great . I wonder if anyone here has made it to 100,000 miles ?

On my last Honda Accord, the alternator went out at 190k miles.

1996 Tacoma 360,000 miles on the alternator only changed a starter..

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'95 vfr.....235,000-ish km, replaced last year but was still working fine. desperately chasing a gremlin that seemed to only appear when hot, changing it didn't solve the issue. also improved/fixed other commonly troublesome connectors & r/r, etc. all the usual stuff that's been giving grief forever on these bikes. oem parts guess I should've taken the main harness apart but will leave that for a last resort, rewired charging function much as a vfrness method worked fine all last season, just won't support a full load(liner, gloves, socks) leave out the socks & it's good, drives me nuts when I fret about it! maybe I'll try a new battery next year.

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'95 vfr.....235,000-ish km, replaced last year but was still working fine. desperately chasing a gremlin that seemed to only appear when hot, changing it didn't solve the issue. also improved/fixed other commonly troublesome connectors & r/r, etc. all the usual stuff that's been giving grief forever on these bikes. oem parts guess I should've taken the main harness apart but will leave that for a last resort, rewired charging function much as a vfrness method worked fine all last season, just won't support a full load(liner, gloves, socks) leave out the socks & it's good, drives me nuts when I fret about it! maybe I'll try a new battery next year.

Measure the resistance(DVM or VOM set on ohm's) in your heated gear and see if your loading the system .

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thing is, I have an '86 that supports the load fine. I think it even has slightly less stator output.

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thing is, I have an '86 that supports the load fine. I think it even has slightly less stator output.

Hmm dont know but it sounds like you gonna have start looking in all the hard places. But it only does it when the heat gear is connected . So in the summer no problem ...

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yes.....& only once the stator has gotten hot, say 20-30 minutes of usual riding, mix of city &/or highway

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I remember when car alternators might go 40 to 60,000 miles, today most seem to easily go post 100,000 miles and then some, my chevy colrado has over 122,000 miles with original alternator, my 1998 Silverado 's did fail around 50,000 miles. I had a Toyota motor go 140,000 miles and still going on original alt.

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