Member Contributer Switchblade Posted September 16, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted September 16, 2013 I usually start at the stator and then work my way to the R\R and last the battery. But I have Shorai battery very depenpable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigmac9137 Posted September 18, 2013 Author Share Posted September 18, 2013 So I did a visual wire check and bolt test on my battery and here are my results: At idle, with hi beams on, I am getting 12.09V at battery. When I increase to 5000 RPMs it only goes up to 12.19V. Does not seem like enough to charge battery....? Also here is a picture of the wiring harness with 3 yellow wires coming off the regulator: So it's clearly melted... Can I just splice a new adapter on? Or do I need a new regulator.....again..? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beck Posted September 18, 2013 Share Posted September 18, 2013 Now that we're discussing car and bike charging systems,.......... what is the basic difference from the charging system in our cars and in our VFRs. I'm asking because if we never really have charging system problems with our cars, why didn't Honda or other MC makers just put a car style charging system in our bikes too? I'm not an electrical engineer, but the first thing I can see different is that cars have external alternators. beyond that I dunno what is different.... I've seen what seems to be RRs in cars, but there must be something more that makes car charging system much more reliable that what Honda put on their bikes.... I suspect that similarities and/or differences between the two charging systems might also affect how safe it is to jump bike batteries with car batteries. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ridered Posted September 18, 2013 Share Posted September 18, 2013 Imagine my disappointment when I discovered no videos of a car jumping over a VFR. My dad owns a shop that repairs starters and alternators. The #1 cause of charging system failures is a low battery. I think he said something like a 1 volt drop is 50% dead. That means the current needed to charge the battery is very high, and that will overheat the alternator and system. Also, old wires, or bad connections overwork the charging system and fry alternators. That is probably why there are so many problems with the VFR, connections get corroded, or the battery is slightly low. Make sure every connection is strong, and keep the battery charged. Maybe an annual check item? I keep my battery charged by riding almost everyday, but if not, add a battery tender. I'm going to start checking all my connections annually. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer auggius Posted September 19, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted September 19, 2013 So I did a visual wire check and bolt test on my battery and here are my results: At idle, with hi beams on, I am getting 12.09V at battery. When I increase to 5000 RPMs it only goes up to 12.19V. Does not seem like enough to charge battery....? Also here is a picture of the wiring harness with 3 yellow wires coming off the regulator: So it's clearly melted... Can I just splice a new adapter on? Or do I need a new regulator.....again..? You say "again." So it has failed before. Do you have a VFRness installed? If not, I would highly recommend it. And a new r/r, and possibly a new stator too. But you will have to do some diagnostics with a multimeter to see where the fault lies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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