bigmac9137 Posted September 7, 2013 Share Posted September 7, 2013 3 weeks ago I rushed into work, and left my bike on the "on" position, effectively draining my battery when I wanted to go home (sometimes I have more common sense than a 14 yr old girl...not this time). Couldnt pop start it, so i charged battery with trickle charger for 15 minutes, then jumped it with a car. (Car was not turned on, just key to on switch). It worked, I charged my battery the next 2 days and we were back. After about 2 weeks of riding fine, I came out of the bank and the bike started slower, went to another store, came out, it wouldnt start at all, dead battery. I jump started with a car again, but it only went 1 mile, then died. So I parked it, took battery, charged it for 3 hours, then put it back in and it started and I got it home. So 4 possibilities, battery, stator, wiring/connections or R/R. Not Battery, it was holding the charges, just not getting charged while riding. R/R I changed 10,000 miles ago (at 25,000), could it of went again? Stator, Ive never touched this thing, any way to check? Connections, maybe one melted. SO basically could jumping it with a car blow up the stator or R/R? How do I use a volt meter to check it, if need be? any masterminds know what it is, so i can just buy a new one?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer bmart Posted September 7, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted September 7, 2013 If they are both 12V and amps are still pushed and not pulled, you should be just fine to jump off of any 12V source. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer auggius Posted September 7, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted September 7, 2013 Stator test procedure here: http://www.wiremybike.com/test-procedures-stator-testing-p-805.html You will need a multimeter to test for continuity and voltage. Check the connectors for corroion too. My stator is oem while I am on my third r/r. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFRSuperfreak Posted September 7, 2013 Share Posted September 7, 2013 Have jumped either, as long as it's a normal car and not some monster of a diesel with a bank of 4 batteries. Do check all wires esp. ground, get rid of questionable harnesses, and do test stator output as suggested earlier. (Running on replaced RR here, with direct lines from stator to battery). /Edit; Direct lines from the RR to battery! lol. can't pull a fast one with this crowd...) Was just checking if you'all were asleep! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFR4Lee Posted September 7, 2013 Share Posted September 7, 2013 For a second there I thought this jump involved a sturdy ramp and some rapid acceleration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted September 7, 2013 Share Posted September 7, 2013 Your starter will only draw as many amps as it needs from the car and no more. As long as its 12v and the polarity is correct, it doesn't matter if the battery is as big as your house, the MC starter will only use as many amps as is required to turn the engine over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roebling3 Posted September 7, 2013 Share Posted September 7, 2013 You may just need a battery. How old is the one in the bike? The 'charging' you've given it may not be doing much. If you replace the battery (whether a gel cell or wet cells and whether or not the dealer says it's charged, put it on a charger overnight. a new battery will likely start your bike, but it may not have a full charge and it's unlikely it will get a full charge in your bike. R3~ . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted September 8, 2013 Share Posted September 8, 2013 Also, after flattening a battery, they will never again be capable of full capacity. So you might have put the nail in its coffin. Take the battery out, charge it properly overnight, then take it somewhere for a free load test. Then you will know. Not ruling out other problems with your charging system, but based on leaving the key on, the battery is the first place I'd start looking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JETS Posted September 8, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted September 8, 2013 +4 on what he said. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer CornerCarver Posted September 8, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted September 8, 2013 For a second there I thought this jump involved a sturdy ramp and some rapid acceleration. Me too, I definitely would have went the other way and jumped the VFR over the car instead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noobtastic14 Posted September 8, 2013 Share Posted September 8, 2013 Have jumped either, as long as it's a normal car and not some monster of a diesel with a bank of 4 batteries. Do check all wires esp. ground, get rid of questionable harnesses, and do test stator output as suggested earlier. (Running on replaced RR here, with direct lines from stator to battery). I have jumped my bike off my car which has four batteries for over 300AH and 410A of alt output. Veefer800Canuck is spot on- the bike only pulls what it needs so more is better IMO Your starter will only draw as many amps as it needs from the car and no more. As long as its 12v and the polarity is correct, it doesn't matter if the battery is as big as your house, the MC starter will only use as many amps as is required to turn the engine over. Yes, -Drew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arri Posted September 8, 2013 Share Posted September 8, 2013 Your starter will only draw as many amps as it needs from the car and no more. As long as its 12v and the polarity is correct, it doesn't matter if the battery is as big as your house, the MC starter will only use as many amps as is required to turn the engine over. And what would happened if he had started the MC with car engine running? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arri Posted September 8, 2013 Share Posted September 8, 2013 Â (Running on replaced RR here, with direct lines from stator to battery).Nobodys questioned this line yet?.At least a little weird, being even impossible. But who knows , maybe he can make some miles with this setup without worrying about the RR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V4 Rosso Posted September 8, 2013 Share Posted September 8, 2013 And what would happened if he had started the MC with car engine running?A lot of cars have a higher voltage during warmup (of the car battery): 15,6V compared to 13,6V. Not a problem for the electronics, only for lightbulbs as the higher voltage will shorten their lifespan. But why have the car engine running as the car battery has more than enough capacity by itself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted September 8, 2013 Share Posted September 8, 2013 Your starter will only draw as many amps as it needs from the car and no more. As long as its 12v and the polarity is correct, it doesn't matter if the battery is as big as your house, the MC starter will only use as many amps as is required to turn the engine over. And what would happened if he had started the MC with car engine running? Nothing. Amps are pulled, not pushed. The starter motor of the bike will only take what energy it requires to turn the engine over. The amps are available from the source, in this case a car, with say a 130A alternator, and maybe a 1000 CCA battery, but if the bike starter motor only requires (guessing) 10A to rotate the engine, then that's all it will draw from the car's system. Unless there is a dead short somewhere in the MC electrical system, then you will either blow a fuse, or if it's unprotected, melt whatever it is that's shorting out. Bigger worry is getting incorrect polarity. Now THAT will ruin your day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noobtastic14 Posted September 8, 2013 Share Posted September 8, 2013 ^^^ You need to stop beating me to the punch sir. Also, I have never seen an OEM alt with a 15.6v cold set. I have mine at 15.3v cold 15.0 hot and it is a 300A aftermarket unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted September 8, 2013 Share Posted September 8, 2013 Haha. Noob. :-p Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arri Posted September 8, 2013 Share Posted September 8, 2013 Your starter will only draw as many amps as it needs from the car and no more. As long as its 12v and the polarity is correct, it doesn't matter if the battery is as big as your house, the MC starter will only use as many amps as is required to turn the engine over.And what would happened if he had started the MC with car engine running? Nothing. Amps are pulled, not pushed. The starter motor of the bike will only take what energy it requires to turn the engine over. The amps are available from the source, in this case a car, with say a 130A alternator, and maybe a 1000 CCA battery, but if the bike starter motor only requires (guessing) 10A to rotate the engine, then that's all it will draw from the car's system. Unless there is a dead short somewhere in the MC electrical system, then you will either blow a fuse, or if it's unprotected, melt whatever it is that's shorting out. Bigger worry is getting incorrect polarity. Now THAT will ruin your day. My question was regarding what will happen during the seconds that the parallel connection of the running car and motorcycle. If the voltage level at the battery of the motorcycle is hihger than 14.4 V, the shortcircuit thyristors in RR will maintein this shortcircuit condition in the alternator. As the voltage is regulated by the stronger circuit of the car and the voltage will not be reduced, the shortcircuit will remain on the MC until paralell conection disapier. In summary, alternator and RR are shortcircuited for long time = destruction ;) I dont know... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFRSuperfreak Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 (Running on replaced RR here, with direct lines from stator to battery).Nobodys questioned this line yet?.At least a little weird, being even impossible. But who knows , maybe he can make some miles with this setup without worrying about the RR haha! oops, yes: Direct lines from RR. Not stator that'd be quite the spark show... for a few seconds!. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mk2davis Posted September 9, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted September 9, 2013 OP, are you still with us? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigmac9137 Posted September 9, 2013 Author Share Posted September 9, 2013 I'm here! I made my way, through the billion posts, managing to read all of them and not launching over them. BTW, I wish I ramped a car, this battery and RR crap isn't nearly as awesome. I am going to charge my battery tonight, and take it somewhere. To get it checked, but it held the last charge for 2 weeks of riding. I am stealing/borrowing a mult meter from work and gonna try and get these tests of the stator and RR run this week, soon! Thanks for the link to the stator test, just what I needed. Wouldn't it be easy if I just went straight from stator to battery? I heard that works super well.... :P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noobtastic14 Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 Your starter will only draw as many amps as it needs from the car and no more. As long as its 12v and the polarity is correct, it doesn't matter if the battery is as big as your house, the MC starter will only use as many amps as is required to turn the engine over.And what would happened if he had started the MC with car engine running? Nothing. Amps are pulled, not pushed. The starter motor of the bike will only take what energy it requires to turn the engine over. The amps are available from the source, in this case a car, with say a 130A alternator, and maybe a 1000 CCA battery, but if the bike starter motor only requires (guessing) 10A to rotate the engine, then that's all it will draw from the car's system. Unless there is a dead short somewhere in the MC electrical system, then you will either blow a fuse, or if it's unprotected, melt whatever it is that's shorting out. Bigger worry is getting incorrect polarity. Now THAT will ruin your day. My question was regarding what will happen during the seconds that the parallel connection of the running car and motorcycle. If the voltage level at the battery of the motorcycle is hihger than 14.4 V, the shortcircuit thyristors in RR will maintein this shortcircuit condition in the alternator. As the voltage is regulated by the stronger circuit of the car and the voltage will not be reduced, the shortcircuit will remain on the MC until paralell conection disapier. In summary, alternator and RR are shortcircuited for long time = destruction ;) I dont know... I think I know what you are getting at- but at first glace that made no sense. I'm assuming you mean that the RR dissipates excess energy from the bikes charging system and when you have it hooked to the car it will be trying to scrub off the much more robust charging system and eventually burn up. If that is what you mean it makes sense but it would take a lot of time. With a bad battery (or even a good battery not topped off) the excess energy in the system would go towards charging the bat/starting the bike rather than to the RR. Damage would occur if the bike was running while also hooked up to the car (also running) for an extended period of time. -Drew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arri Posted September 11, 2013 Share Posted September 11, 2013    Your starter will only draw as many amps as it needs from the car and no more. As long as its 12v and the polarity is correct, it doesn't matter if the battery is as big as your house, the MC starter will only use as many amps as is required to turn the engine over.And what would happened if he had started the MC with car engine running?   Nothing. Amps are pulled, not pushed. The starter motor of the bike will only take what energy it requires to turn the engine over.  The amps are available from the source, in this case a car, with say a 130A alternator, and maybe a 1000 CCA battery, but if the bike starter motor only requires (guessing) 10A to rotate the engine, then that's all it will draw from the car's system. Unless there is a dead short somewhere in the MC electrical system, then you will either blow a fuse, or if it's unprotected, melt whatever it is that's shorting out.  Bigger worry is getting incorrect polarity. Now THAT will ruin your day.  My question was regarding what will happen during the seconds that the parallel connection of the running car and motorcycle. If the voltage level at the battery of the motorcycle is hihger than 14.4 V, the shortcircuit thyristors in RR will maintein this shortcircuit condition in the alternator. As the voltage is regulated by the stronger circuit of the car and the voltage will not be reduced, the shortcircuit will remain on the MC until paralell conection disapier. In summary, alternator and RR are shortcircuited for long time = destruction ;)I dont know...  I think I know what you are getting at- but at first glace that made no sense. I'm assuming you mean that the RR dissipates excess energy from the bikes charging system and when you have it hooked to the car it will be trying to scrub off the much more robust charging system and eventually burn up. If that is what you mean it makes sense but it would take a lot of time. With a bad battery (or even a good battery not topped off) the excess energy in the system would go towards charging the bat/starting the bike rather than to the RR. Damage would occur if the bike was running while also hooked up to the car (also running) for an extended period of time.  -Drew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted September 11, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted September 11, 2013 Or something's ready to short. One of the drawbacks with jumping mc with a car is the potential to cause a short to happen with a weaken component but I have done it many times, I just dont leave the car running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigmac9137 Posted September 11, 2013 Author Share Posted September 11, 2013 So battery was tested, and it's just fine. Gotta test for either RR or Stator... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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