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Help: Gauge Of Wires From Stator And Into R/r


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Guest entropy

Anyone know the wire gauge for the yellow wires out of the stator and the yellow wires into the R/R ???

I'm about to buy the Delphi connectors, 630 series, but I didn't think to check the wire size. and now i'm at work so I can't check.

much thanks and beer if i'm ever in the same place as you!

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also, anyone know the amps that run from stator to R/R ??

480 watt stator so use Ohms to figure out the current.

480W / 13.5Vdc = ? or what ever voltage your R\R is producing ...

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Anyone know the wire gauge for the yellow wires out of the stator and the yellow wires into the R/R ???

I'm about to buy the Delphi connectors, 630 series, but I didn't think to check the wire size. and now i'm at work so I can't check.

much thanks and beer if i'm ever in the same place as you!

Just did this job on a '99 - --- I would call the wires a 14/16 ga. They strike me as kinda wimpy. (I think calling it 14ga is generous.)--- BTW - you need a very good crimp tool to put this together. Also another note for this... the 630 connector is pretty good physical size. Its a good idea to step back and plan where everthing is going to go in space before you start cutting wires.

MultiPack630a.jpg

Good luck

:cool:

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Don't know the gauge of the wires , but I think the best plan would include soldering and shrinkwrapping the path from stator to RR, and running bigger wires from the RR directly to the battery terminals.

GL

Jeff

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I've actually measured the current and with the stock shunt R/R, mine was 12.3 amps per leg. This my vary slightly bike to bike so I would peg max at 12.5 amps. 14 gauge wire is rated for 15 amps max.

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The heavier the gauge and the shorter the path the better.

99.9% of the time, good advice, but probably not in the bazaaro world of the shunt regulator.

The purpose of the heavier gauge, short wire, is to help prevent voltage drop. Unless your running a bunch of heated gear and need all 480 watts, that 'saved' voltage will just be shunted to ground anyway. 'Less' of a voltage drop would just be more heat in the stator and R/R. All you really need is wire of a big enough gauge to not over heat. That being said, the wire in question is so short, the difference between 14 and 12 gauge won't make a hill of beans either way. Best bet is to use the wire size spec'd for the connector.

If you want a really happy stator and R/R, run 10 feet of 20 gauge aluminum wire jacketed in asbestos.

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If the stator wires are only 14ga, unless you re-build the stator with larger wires all the way to the windings, there will always be a weak link (the old wire). I read somewhere that a certain Ducati stator incorporated larger wires, but I have never located a cheap enough one on eBay to confirm this. Unless the existing wires are damaged, I don't think you can really do much with the OEM stator other than eliminate the connector.

Ciao,

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The main problem with the VFR (and many other bikes) wiring is the barely adequate wire size. This is done to save weight, and cost. You can never go wrong by going up a size on high-current wiring. Soldering the connections helps too. Crimp only connections are much more likely to corrode, and create resistance.

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