Going Mosfet And Delphi Metri Pack - Thoughts?

[Switchblade]

To bad they didn't mount it like the dry clutch setup and let it be air cool but that might not be enough to cool it either .

And it would be easier too change !!!!

[coderighter]

Let's look at the thermo's again.

Keep in mind the each image is scaled independently, with white being the hottest and black being the coldest you can't compare images color to color. The plus target in the middle is the is the target temp. I'll doing the conversion from Celsius to Fahrenheit.

The first image is scaled 78-302 and the targeted is temp 237. This is with the shunt R/R

The second image is scaled 71-345 with the target temp being 206. This is with the series R/R. The difference is 21 degrees but it's actually a bigger difference than that because the highest temp on the second image is higher, meaning the engine temp as a whole was likely higher.

[Switchblade]

Yeh and mine just failed with a series R\R and had one burnt spot at the very top of the stator and I figure our bike's run alot hotter then the bike in the FLIR photo.

[coderighter]

Yeh and mine just failed with a series R\R and had one burnt spot at the very top of the stator and I figure our bike's run alot hotter then the bike in the FLIR photo.

I thought you were OEM R/R?

[Switchblade]

Yeh and mine just failed with a series R\R and had one burnt spot at the very top of the stator and I figure our bike's run alot hotter then the bike in the FLIR photo.

I thought you were OEM R/R?

Mine has failed three times at around 40,000 miles the factory stator(replaced with Ricks) failed at about 51,000 miles the factory R\R opened replaced with Electrosport series R\R. At 64,000 the stator failed again, replaced with the Honda stator and Shin R\R.

[coderighter]

Yeh and mine just failed with a series R\R and had one burnt spot at the very top of the stator and I figure our bike's run alot hotter then the bike in the FLIR photo.

I thought you were OEM R/R?

Mine has failed three times at around 40,000 miles the factory stator(replaced with Ricks) failed at about 51,000 miles the factory R\R opened replaced with Electrosport series R\R. At 64,000 the stator failed again, replaced with the Honda stator and Shin R\R.

I did a quick search and Electrosport doesn't appear to make a series design R/R. All I could find on their website were shunt style. If you search the word 'series' on their site several R/R's show up, but the word 'series' is denoting a group, not a regulator design. Kind of like a BMW 5 series, a group of cars based off the same platform.

If you used a true series type R/R, under normal use, the actual power produced by the stator would be cut by 25-35% ( more with HID's and LED's ) which should reduce stator heat by the about same amount.

[Switchblade]

Yeh and mine just failed with a series R\R and had one burnt spot at the very top of the stator and I figure our bike's run alot hotter then the bike in the FLIR photo.

I thought you were OEM R/R?

Mine has failed three times at around 40,000 miles the factory stator(replaced with Ricks) failed at about 51,000 miles the factory R\R opened replaced with Electrosport series R\R. At 64,000 the stator failed again, replaced with the Honda stator and Shin R\R.

I did a quick search and Electrosport doesn't appear to make a series design R/R. All I could find on their website were shunt style. If you search the word 'series' on their site several R/R's show up, but the word 'series' is denoting a group, not a regulator design. Kind of like a BMW 5 series, a group of cars based off the same platform.

If you used a true series type R/R, under normal use, the actual power produced by the stator would be cut by 25-35% ( more with HID's and LED's ) which should reduce stator heat by the about same amount.

That would make sense I have HID's but not for long ..

Thanks Coderighter .....

[coderighter]

Yeh and mine just failed with a series R\R and had one burnt spot at the very top of the stator and I figure our bike's run alot hotter then the bike in the FLIR photo.

I thought you were OEM R/R?

Mine has failed three times at around 40,000 miles the factory stator(replaced with Ricks) failed at about 51,000 miles the factory R\R opened replaced with Electrosport series R\R. At 64,000 the stator failed again, replaced with the Honda stator and Shin R\R.

I did a quick search and Electrosport doesn't appear to make a series design R/R. All I could find on their website were shunt style. If you search the word 'series' on their site several R/R's show up, but the word 'series' is denoting a group, not a regulator design. Kind of like a BMW 5 series, a group of cars based off the same platform.

If you used a true series type R/R, under normal use, the actual power produced by the stator would be cut by 25-35% ( more with HID's and LED's ) which should reduce stator heat by the about same amount.

That would make sense I have HID's but not for long ..

Thanks Coderighter .....

Just wondering, why are you removing the HID's?

[JZH]

So, to summarize, have there been any actual series-type reg/rec failures as of yet?

Ciao,

[Switchblade]

Yeh and mine just failed with a series R\R and had one burnt spot at the very top of the stator and I figure our bike's run alot hotter then the bike in the FLIR photo.

I thought you were OEM R/R?

Mine has failed three times at around 40,000 miles the factory stator(replaced with Ricks) failed at about 51,000 miles the factory R\R opened replaced with Electrosport series R\R. At 64,000 the stator failed again, replaced with the Honda stator and Shin R\R.

I did a quick search and Electrosport doesn't appear to make a series design R/R. All I could find on their website were shunt style. If you search the word 'series' on their site several R/R's show up, but the word 'series' is denoting a group, not a regulator design. Kind of like a BMW 5 series, a group of cars based off the same platform.

If you used a true series type R/R, under normal use, the actual power produced by the stator would be cut by 25-35% ( more with HID's and LED's ) which should reduce stator heat by the about same amount.

That would make sense I have HID's but not for long ..

Thanks Coderighter .....

Just wondering, why are you removing the HID's?

More I read about reactive power(RA) and its affects on 3 phase power I am beginning to believe the HID's are causing some kind of bad feed back to the stator. The only way to check it is to have a O'scope that can capture multiple waves and not a average of the wave form.

[coderighter]

HID's them self have nothing to do with the failures. Any feedback that could possibly harm the stator or R/R, would toast the ECU first.

However, a shunt regulator basically needs to shunt 'unused' power to ground to control voltage. By changing your 55W bulbs (110 watt total) to 35w HID's (70 watt total), you're asking the R/R to 'consume' and extra 40 watts.

Whats interesting is that even thou that could be an 'issue' for a shunt R/R, it's a benefit for a series R/R, since that power doesn't have to be rectified and 'consumed'. With a series R/R, that 40 watts is never produced, reducing heat (and drag).

So, to summarize, have there been any actual series-type reg/rec failures as of yet?

Ciao,

I think just my Compufire this last March.

[Switchblade]

HID's them self have nothing to do with the failures. Any feedback that could possibly harm the stator or R/R, would toast the ECU first.

However, a shunt regulator basically needs to shunt 'unused' power to ground to control voltage. By changing your 55W bulbs (110 watt total) to 35w HID's (70 watt total), you're asking the R/R to 'consume' and extra 40 watts.

Whats interesting is that even thou that could be an 'issue' for a shunt R/R, it's a benefit for a series R/R, since that power doesn't have to be rectified and 'consumed'. With a series R/R, that 40 watts is never produced, reducing heat (and drag).

So, to summarize, have there been any actual series-type reg/rec failures as of yet?

Ciao,

I think just my Compufire this last March.

Yeh BUT i went to the series R\R type when I installed the HID's.

[coderighter]

HID's them self have nothing to do with the failures. Any feedback that could possibly harm the stator or R/R, would toast the ECU first.

However, a shunt regulator basically needs to shunt 'unused' power to ground to control voltage. By changing your 55W bulbs (110 watt total) to 35w HID's (70 watt total), you're asking the R/R to 'consume' and extra 40 watts.

Whats interesting is that even thou that could be an 'issue' for a shunt R/R, it's a benefit for a series R/R, since that power doesn't have to be rectified and 'consumed'. With a series R/R, that 40 watts is never produced, reducing heat (and drag).

So, to summarize, have there been any actual series-type reg/rec failures as of yet?

Ciao,

I think just my Compufire this last March.

Yeh BUT i went to the series R\R type when I installed the HID's.

Which series R/R did you install?

[Switchblade]

HID's them self have nothing to do with the failures. Any feedback that could possibly harm the stator or R/R, would toast the ECU first.

However, a shunt regulator basically needs to shunt 'unused' power to ground to control voltage. By changing your 55W bulbs (110 watt total) to 35w HID's (70 watt total), you're asking the R/R to 'consume' and extra 40 watts.

Whats interesting is that even thou that could be an 'issue' for a shunt R/R, it's a benefit for a series R/R, since that power doesn't have to be rectified and 'consumed'. With a series R/R, that 40 watts is never produced, reducing heat (and drag).

So, to summarize, have there been any actual series-type reg/rec failures as of yet?

Ciao,

I think just my Compufire this last March.

Yeh BUT i went to the series R\R type when I installed the HID's.

Which series R/R did you install?

Electrosport found it on Fleebay

[JZH]

HID's them self have nothing to do with the failures. Any feedback that could possibly harm the stator or R/R, would toast the ECU first.

However, a shunt regulator basically needs to shunt 'unused' power to ground to control voltage. By changing your 55W bulbs (110 watt total) to 35w HID's (70 watt total), you're asking the R/R to 'consume' and extra 40 watts.

Whats interesting is that even thou that could be an 'issue' for a shunt R/R, it's a benefit for a series R/R, since that power doesn't have to be rectified and 'consumed'. With a series R/R, that 40 watts is never produced, reducing heat (and drag).

So, to summarize, have there been any actual series-type reg/rec failures as of yet?

Ciao,

I think just my Compufire this last March.

Yeh BUT i went to the series R\R type when I installed the HID's.

Which series R/R did you install?

Electrosport found it on Fleebay

Electrosport doesn't make a series-type reg/rec. (Haven't we been through this before?)

Ciao,

[coderighter]

Electrosport doesn't make a series-type reg/rec. (Haven't we been through this before?)

I thought so...........

[DownAndOutNYC]

So after reading this thread, what I've come to understand so far is:

1. Series type are the best, though not 100% without worry (more like 99%).

2. Shunt type, even if it's after market and "better" then OEM, will still perform no better then OEM, and possibly have the same life span overall with the entire charging system.

3. Best to beef up any and all wiring (overkill is a good thing here) and not have to worry about that aspect of the charging system.

Anything I miss?

Btw, which model of the Compufire series reg/rec was used on the VFR?

[CHUCK2]

Umm...what do you mean by "wait on the 50A Shindengen R\R"??

[Switchblade]

HID's them self have nothing to do with the failures. Any feedback that could possibly harm the stator or R/R, would toast the ECU first.

However, a shunt regulator basically needs to shunt 'unused' power to ground to control voltage. By changing your 55W bulbs (110 watt total) to 35w HID's (70 watt total), you're asking the R/R to 'consume' and extra 40 watts.

Whats interesting is that even thou that could be an 'issue' for a shunt R/R, it's a benefit for a series R/R, since that power doesn't have to be rectified and 'consumed'. With a series R/R, that 40 watts is never produced, reducing heat (and drag).

So, to summarize, have there been any actual series-type reg/rec failures as of yet?

Ciao,

I think just my Compufire this last March.

Yeh BUT i went to the series R\R type when I installed the HID's.

Which series R/R did you install?

Electrosport found it on Fleebay

Electrosport doesn't make a series-type reg/rec. (Haven't we been through this before?)

Ciao,

Mine is series type because it only generates heat when I load it a lot and when its not, llke when I pull the headlight fuse it does have any affect on it all but when I turn on the headlight's(low beam and high beam) it gets warm not hot but warm . There site does not state what type they are but I have emailed there tech to get clarification mite not responed.

[Switchblade]

Umm...what do you mean by "wait on the 50A Shindengen R\R"??

FH020AA already has 30A continuous and 50A peak capability, Shindengen reportedly are working on a 50A continuous 75A or 100A peak.

[Switchblade]

Funny how selective Shindengen is with there spec sheets. I found this one and it's the one I'm running now but nothing about the FH12 or FH20.

[Switchblade]

Found the SH and the FH spec sheet's.

[mello dude]

So after reading this thread, what I've come to understand so far is:

1. Series type are the best, though not 100% without worry (more like 99%).

2. Shunt type, even if it's after market and "better" then OEM, will still perform no better then OEM, and possibly have the same life span overall with the entire charging system.

3. Best to beef up any and all wiring (overkill is a good thing here) and not have to worry about that aspect of the charging system.

Anything I miss?

Btw, which model of the Compufire series reg/rec was used on the VFR?

---The newer technology very common on new model bikes is MOSFET but still is technically a shunt design. (Like the FH020 in the chart above. Its sold as an aftermarket part too.) Hondas older tech shunt design, has a history of eating it, and quite a few VFRDers replace with a MOSFET tech R/Rs. -- I'm running the CF R/R and yes, it is def a series design. I like that the bike runs cooler and the R/R itself never is hotter than bath water. -- It is the best? That's like asking what is the best beer or motorcycle. For me it is def better.

- On wiring, no debate here. An alternate wire 'em up on the R/R is to take the pos lead though a fuse box direct to the battery and the neg to go direct to ground or to ground lead on the battery. Works out fine.

Compufire model? 55402

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_7/191-3316417-5798006?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=compufire%2055402&sprefix=compufi%2Caps%2C347

[JZH]

HID's them self have nothing to do with the failures. Any feedback that could possibly harm the stator or R/R, would toast the ECU first.

However, a shunt regulator basically needs to shunt 'unused' power to ground to control voltage. By changing your 55W bulbs (110 watt total) to 35w HID's (70 watt total), you're asking the R/R to 'consume' and extra 40 watts.

Whats interesting is that even thou that could be an 'issue' for a shunt R/R, it's a benefit for a series R/R, since that power doesn't have to be rectified and 'consumed'. With a series R/R, that 40 watts is never produced, reducing heat (and drag).

So, to summarize, have there been any actual series-type reg/rec failures as of yet?

Ciao,

I think just my Compufire this last March.

Yeh BUT i went to the series R\R type when I installed the HID's.

Which series R/R did you install?

Electrosport found it on Fleebay

Electrosport doesn't make a series-type reg/rec. (Haven't we been through this before?)

Ciao,

Mine is series type because it only generates heat when I load it a lot and when its not, llke when I pull the headlight fuse it does have any affect on it all but when I turn on the headlight's(low beam and high beam) it gets warm not hot but warm . There site does not state what type they are but I have emailed there tech to get clarification mite not responed.

No, it isn't a series-type reg/rec. The type relates to its design, not how warm it gets. Series reg/recs are fairly new to the motorcycle market and there are only three known manufacturers: CompuFire, Cycle Electric and Shindengen.

Ciao,

[Switchblade]

HID's them self have nothing to do with the failures. Any feedback that could possibly harm the stator or R/R, would toast the ECU first.

However, a shunt regulator basically needs to shunt 'unused' power to ground to control voltage. By changing your 55W bulbs (110 watt total) to 35w HID's (70 watt total), you're asking the R/R to 'consume' and extra 40 watts.

Whats interesting is that even thou that could be an 'issue' for a shunt R/R, it's a benefit for a series R/R, since that power doesn't have to be rectified and 'consumed'. With a series R/R, that 40 watts is never produced, reducing heat (and drag).

So, to summarize, have there been any actual series-type reg/rec failures as of yet?

Ciao,

I think just my Compufire this last March.

Yeh BUT i went to the series R\R type when I installed the HID's.

Which series R/R did you install?

Electrosport found it on Fleebay

Electrosport doesn't make a series-type reg/rec. (Haven't we been through this before?)

Ciao,

Mine is series type because it only generates heat when I load it a lot and when its not, llke when I pull the headlight fuse it does have any affect on it all but when I turn on the headlight's(low beam and high beam) it gets warm not hot but warm . There site does not state what type they are but I have emailed there tech to get clarification mite not responed.

No, it isn't a series-type reg/rec. The type relates to its design, not how warm it gets. Series reg/recs are fairly new to the motorcycle market and there are only three known manufacturers: CompuFire, Cycle Electric and Shindengen.

Ciao,

What it DOES NOT DO is work like the OEM R\R , it DOES NOT run hot all the time LIKE THE OEM does. Now if you know something that the manufactor doesn't let all of us know because I have emailed Electrosport tech for some clarification BUT if you alredy know post it and I forward to them so they might better understand THERE product.