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Going Mosfet And Delphi Metri Pack - Thoughts?


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Ive had to replace 1 stator in that post 100,000 miles. Post 50,000 mile stators in the motorcycle industry are considered above average, most fail way less than that. In general the vfr by model is considered to have above average stator life. This is not my spec, but the spec of averages amongst brands in the motorcycle industry.

Granted there are other factors involved why people are not acheiving that on the vfr(including earlier poor location design), but I have no issue with the vfr and its electrics. Just imagine how long a stator would last if they were running dry stators, not very long.

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Which Shindengen is a Series unit? Most I have seen are Shunt or MOSFET (still shunt, just more efficient)

SH775

And unlike the Electrosport, it really is a series type. I guess Polaris is using them.

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HID's them self have nothing to do with the failures. Any feedback that could possibly harm the stator or R/R, would toast the ECU first.

However, a shunt regulator basically needs to shunt 'unused' power to ground to control voltage. By changing your 55W bulbs (110 watt total) to 35w HID's (70 watt total), you're asking the R/R to 'consume' and extra 40 watts.

Whats interesting is that even thou that could be an 'issue' for a shunt R/R, it's a benefit for a series R/R, since that power doesn't have to be rectified and 'consumed'. With a series R/R, that 40 watts is never produced, reducing heat (and drag).

So, to summarize, have there been any actual series-type reg/rec failures as of yet?

Ciao,

I think just my Compufire this last March.

Yeh BUT i went to the series R\R type when I installed the HID's.

Which series R/R did you install?

Electrosport found it on Fleebay

Electrosport doesn't make a series-type reg/rec. (Haven't we been through this before?) :wink:

Ciao,

Mine is series type because it only generates heat when I load it a lot and when its not, llke when I pull the headlight fuse it does have any affect on it all but when I turn on the headlight's(low beam and high beam) it gets warm not hot but warm . There site does not state what type they are but I have emailed there tech to get clarification mite not responed.

No, it isn't a series-type reg/rec. The type relates to its design, not how warm it gets. Series reg/recs are fairly new to the motorcycle market and there are only three known manufacturers: CompuFire, Cycle Electric and Shindengen.

Ciao,

What it DOES NOT DO is work like the OEM R\R , it DOES NOT run hot all the time LIKE THE OEM does. Now if you know something that the manufactor doesn't let all of us know because I have emailed Electrosport tech for some clarification BUT if you alredy know post it and I forward to them so they might better understand THERE product.

I don't get it, sorry.

Ciao,

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HID's them self have nothing to do with the failures. Any feedback that could possibly harm the stator or R/R, would toast the ECU first.

However, a shunt regulator basically needs to shunt 'unused' power to ground to control voltage. By changing your 55W bulbs (110 watt total) to 35w HID's (70 watt total), you're asking the R/R to 'consume' and extra 40 watts.

Whats interesting is that even thou that could be an 'issue' for a shunt R/R, it's a benefit for a series R/R, since that power doesn't have to be rectified and 'consumed'. With a series R/R, that 40 watts is never produced, reducing heat (and drag).

So, to summarize, have there been any actual series-type reg/rec failures as of yet?

Ciao,

I think just my Compufire this last March.

Yeh BUT i went to the series R\R type when I installed the HID's.

Which series R/R did you install?

Electrosport found it on Fleebay

Electrosport doesn't make a series-type reg/rec. (Haven't we been through this before?) :wink:

Ciao,

Mine is series type because it only generates heat when I load it a lot and when its not, llke when I pull the headlight fuse it does have any affect on it all but when I turn on the headlight's(low beam and high beam) it gets warm not hot but warm . There site does not state what type they are but I have emailed there tech to get clarification mite not responed.

No, it isn't a series-type reg/rec. The type relates to its design, not how warm it gets. Series reg/recs are fairly new to the motorcycle market and there are only three known manufacturers: CompuFire, Cycle Electric and Shindengen.

Ciao,

What it DOES NOT DO is work like the OEM R\R , it DOES NOT run hot all the time LIKE THE OEM does. Now if you know something that the manufactor doesn't let all of us know because I have emailed Electrosport tech for some clarification BUT if you alredy know post it and I forward to them so they might better understand THERE product.

I don't get it, sorry.

Ciao,

Yeh

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My oem shunt with over 100,000 miles doesnt run hot at all, I think there's more to it than many think or Blame.

2 words.

Weak magnets.

what do you mean weak magnets, on the rotor?

having said that

I have outstanding voltage output, many speak of poor or weak voltage out put, maybe they are drawing more current as a result, and burning up wiring and contacts.

so if weak magnets(which Im not really buying), is the Ticket, so be it. Course if your speaking of those who've had the failures, maybe it is a weak output via magnets.

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Which Shindengen is a Series unit? Most I have seen are Shunt or MOSFET (still shunt, just more efficient)

SH775

And unlike the Electrosport, it really is a series type. I guess Polaris is using them.

Has anyone found a place to buy these? I haven't seen them for sale anywhere.

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Which Shindengen is a Series unit? Most I have seen are Shunt or MOSFET (still shunt, just more efficient)

SH775

And unlike the Electrosport, it really is a series type. I guess Polaris is using them.

Has anyone found a place to buy these? I haven't seen them for sale anywhere.

Here's where i bought mine.

http://polarisparts123.com/partnumber-search/

$73.00 to the door.

Now I will warn you if you have a Electrosport R\R it performs just like Shindengen SH775.

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Now I will warn you if you have a Electrosport R\R it performs just like Shindengen SH775.

The same way Dennis Rodman performs like Michael Jordon!

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Now I will warn you if you have a Electrosport R\R it performs just like Shindengen SH775.

The same way Dennis Rodman performs like Michael Jordon!

Yeh except BETTER !!!!!!!!

And I think Dennis Rodman understand OHM'S LAW !!!!!!

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Now I will warn you if you have a Electrosport R\R it performs just like Shindengen SH775.

The same way Dennis Rodman performs like Michael Jordon!

Yeh except BETTER !!!!!!!!

And I think Dennis Rodman understand OHM'S LAW !!!!!!

That's properly not the only law Dennis doesn't understand.

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Now I will warn you if you have a Electrosport R\R it performs just like Shindengen SH775.

The same way Dennis Rodman performs like Michael Jordon!

Yeh except BETTER !!!!!!!!

And I think Dennis Rodman understand OHM'S LAW !!!!!!

That's properly not the only law Dennis doesn't understand.

10-4 Thanks for all input .

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Can I get some clear data that is known to be 100% scientifically proven to be true here?? Or at least confirmed by the manufacturer??

I'm still waiting Electrosport .

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The issue I would have is that SH775 is only 35Amps....It has to be able to switch the potential load, not just the current (haha) load. I would prefer a 50Amp specced item.

What is the best source these days for an alternate Series RR? Compufire?

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The issue I would have is that SH775 is only 35Amps....It has to be able to switch the potential load, not just the current (haha) load. I would prefer a 50Amp specced item.

What is the best source these days for an alternate Series RR? Compufire?

My Compufire died (I suspect over voltage on the input side). I'm using a Cycle Electrics, it's 50 amps and a true series style. I verified it's a series style by measuring the current from the stator to the R/R. I was going to use the 'load to heat' method, but I just happened to have a meter handy.

Details here -

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/74126-ok-second-try-for-a-non-shunt-type-rr/

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The issue I would have is that SH775 is only 35Amps....It has to be able to switch the potential load, not just the current (haha) load. I would prefer a 50Amp specced item.

What is the best source these days for an alternate Series RR? Compufire?

My Compufire died (I suspect over voltage on the input side). I'm using a Cycle Electrics, it's 50 amps and a true series style. I verified it's a series style by measuring the current from the stator to the R/R. I was going to use the 'load to heat' method, but I just happened to have a meter handy.

Details here -

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/74126-ok-second-try-for-a-non-shunt-type-rr/

Harbor Fright sales a little load bank perfect for that. Dont remember the model # but it seems like it was $60-$70 ...

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The issue I would have is that SH775 is only 35Amps....It has to be able to switch the potential load, not just the current (haha) load. I would prefer a 50Amp specced item.

What is the best source these days for an alternate Series RR? Compufire?

My Compufire died (I suspect over voltage on the input side). I'm using a Cycle Electrics, it's 50 amps and a true series style. I verified it's a series style by measuring the current from the stator to the R/R. I was going to use the 'load to heat' method, but I just happened to have a meter handy.

Details here -

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/74126-ok-second-try-for-a-non-shunt-type-rr/

Harbor Fright sales a little load bank perfect for that. Dont remember the model # but it seems like it was $60-$70 ...

I just used an amp meter. Why would you need a load bank?

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