Another Airbox Mod Thread I Know.......but Whats The Best One To Do,01 Vfr800

[coderighter]

What happened to runs 2,3,and 4?

I'm guessing if you started with "no snorkel" run #1, then put it back, by the 5th run you'd have higher numbers for "with snorkel". It just took 5 runs to heat up the oil.

Besides, it's a 5th gen, no VTEC.

Not my bike, I have no idea. Just a repost from the old "Big Mailing List" on the .wisc.edu server.

Check the date, 29 March 1999

Ya, I know.

[VFR Capt.Bob]

Take the snorkel out and try it. It's super easy and you can put it back if you don't like it. I went back and forth and finally left it out. I'm a less is more guy.

With the VFR I think the results are a mixed results. Some like a quieter bike with less vibration so the heavy stock exhaust and rubber snorkel on the air box mod should be ignored for them. I don't like excessively loud bikes but love the sound of the V four so my snorkel is off and I have a extra baffled stainless Delkavik exhaust on mine. Staintune high mount with the spud baffle was even sexier.

The Jardine race slip on was too much for my sleepy neighborhood and tiresome on longer rides. I de paired mine because I work on my own bike and it was just more junk in the trunk when I used to check the valve lash every interval. Plus some very nice gentleman from England on this board donated his De pair plates to me. (Cheers again to you) .

I had bad exhaust gaskets on the rear union to the rear headers so the popping on decel was more like loud back firing. Depair cancelled alot of racket but I did have to replace the exhaust gaskets as well. Side note: Do not use your exhaust headers as a jacking support for front end work. You will be sorry when you have to replace these pain in the ass gaskets.

Far as getting more power out of the V four I would say the power quality is more important. And that's why the VFR is such an awesome mill. Not the most power but the way it is delivered is hard to beat.

BTW that marble in the vacuum line mod is brilliant. Love it.

[Rush2112]

What happened to runs 2,3,and 4?

I'm guessing if you started with "no snorkel" run #1, then put it back, by the 5th run you'd have higher numbers for "with snorkel". It just took 5 runs to heat up the oil.

Besides, it's a 5th gen, no VTEC.

The OP bike is a 5th gen...

You make a good point on the oil temp and heat sink on the dyno runs... as long as your assumption is correct about the engine and oil temps being significantly colder on the baseline run. The reality is it did not show any loss except on one data point, so I think we can agree it doesn't really do any harm removing it. As you pointed out the differences are all within tolerances so statistically they are the same... on or off. If you like the sound and are a minimalist (less is more) run without it. If you want to keep it stock and installed, no worries...

[goose]

Is that why my airbox cover looks like this? I wasn't really sure why the PO did this or what exactly was missing.

[BCmcrider]

I had bad exhaust gaskets on the rear union to the rear headers so the popping on decel was more like loud back firing. Depair cancelled alot of racket but I did have to replace the exhaust gaskets as well. Side note: Do not use your exhaust headers as a jacking support for front end work. You will be sorry when you have to replace these pain in the ass gaskets.

That's contrary to every bit of advice I've seen on here but obviously you know from experience. Do you think that it was a kink, ie from jacking with something too pointed, or was it a gentle bend, thus putting the rear header / cylinder connections out of alignment?

Anyone else tweaked their header by jacking up the front with a floor jack and 2x4 while on the center stand?

[Guest]

There are only 2 good mods that really do something.

1: Put a marble in both reed tubes to kill the valve-pairing system, or remove the entire valve-pairing and close them on both sides of the cylinderheads.

can you explain more on what you mean by put a marble in the reed tubes and where there located, and what would be a good plug for the vaccum tube to make sure it's air tight

You can remove the entire system in total.

But they are talking about having regular bike checks in Europe once a year.

Because of that I use marbles to block the reed-tubes so I can undo the blocking for the check (if needed) and put them back later, is less work then install the system again.

If the checks don't measure gasses, then I will remove the system for good.

The reed tubes are the thumb thick tubes at the outside of your cilinderhead and the are connected to a valve that is located just above your oil-cooler.

The third tube at this valve is connected to the airbox.

Either you remove the valve and 3 tubes and block all or simply put a marble in the 2 tubes that go to either cilinderhead at the exhaust side.

The inner tube on the cilinderhead looks the same but it the airflow between airbox and cilinder-vavles, don't block or remove that one.

Have a good read here: http://www.rc51.org/pair.htm

Marbles are simply far more easy to do and it's done in 30 minutes, where removing it entirely is far more work but saves weight.

It's the same on most injection-powered bikes, my sons CBR1000RR has the same and we removed it there too.

A marble mod looks like this:

Simply put a kids playing marble in the tubes and connect it again, simple and effective.

marbles it is but I'm kinda skidish about doing it cause I don't know wich 2 to plug, again I'll probably be better when I get in there but this sounds like a second language now lol,so do I have to remove airbox or not and the hose on the left side how can I tell wich one to plug, I know I'm being a pain in the ass but I've only done mod's as far as looks and simple maintence so I don't know what everything looks like

[coderighter]

The purpose of the PAIR system is to add oxygen to the exhaust as close to the exhaust port as possible in hopes that the unburnt hydrocarbons, oxygen, and heat will continue the combustion and consume the unburnt hydrocarbons.

In the VFR, the ECU controls the operation of the PAIR system by means of a solenoid controlled air valve. When open, exhaust passing over the PAIR ports in the head draws a vacuum that pulls a small amount of filtered air from the air box. That fresh air blends with the exhaust, thus adding oxygen to the heat and hydrocarbons.

Now then, the statement below is not a guess or a theory, it's fact. I've actually gotten out a multimeter and seen this with my own eyes, on my bike, which is an '06.

The ECU only only operates the solenoid air valve when-

1. The throttle is closed.

2. The coolant temp is below 168-ish

Unless those 2 items are true, the valve is closed.

Now, my VFR is an '06 and that was a year of some minor changes, but having said that, I would be amazed if it didn't apply to '02-'10.

It only makes sense, start up is when there are the most hydrocarbons. Also, this secondary combustion would help to get the cat. up to temp. It would also stand to reason that the PAIR could not be active while the bike is in closed loop.

Removing or deactivating the PAIR would increase the warm up time slightly (and emmisions).

Leaving it alone, leaves one more thing that can fail and cause issues.

Mines gone.

[AndyB]

Now then, the statement below is not a guess or a theory, it's fact. I've actually gotten out a multimeter and seen this with my own eyes, on my bike, which is an '06.

The ECU only only operates the solenoid air valve when-

1. The throttle is closed.

2. The coolant temp is below 168-ish

Unless those 2 items are true, the valve is closed.

Now, VFR is an '06 and that was a year of some minor changes, but having said that, I would be amazed if it didn't apply to '02-'10.

Also, it makes sense, start up is when there are the most hydrocarbons. Also, this secondary combustion would help to get the cat. up to temp. It would also stand to reason that the PAIR could not be active while the bike is in closed loop.

Mines gone.

This was mentioned in another thread. Why is it that everyone swears that the PAIR system is the source of everything that is wrong with the VFR? I believe what your statement and it makes sense that it would happen on those occasions. Could it be the transition that is the real source of trouble?

[Guest]

I've got a long way to go, I feel retarded about the pair removal subject, I'm going to do the marble mod but I wish I had a step by step guide for dummy's lol, I hate when I don't know about certain stuff, so research here I come

[AndyB]

Don't remove it at first. It is much more simple to plug it. Have you ever replaced your airfilter. If so, you can do this. Just life the tank and take a a good look at the bottom of the airbox. Look at the hoses that come off of the bottom. Find the hose coming from the airbox that is about 3/4"- 1" in diameter. It goes to a small solenoid. The solenoid has the one large hose from the airbox coming to it and two more hoses going to the heads/valvecovers (1 hose to the front cylinder bank and one to the back). Once you are sure the have correct hose from the airbox, pull the hose off the airbox. It probably has a ring retainer on it. Stuff the marble in that hose*. Put the hose back on. Done!

If the hose you are looking at goes directly from the airbox to the engine without going through a solenoid, that is the wrong hose.

*I can't say for sure that it works this way on a 5th gen, but you only need one marble on a 6th gen. Rather than blocking it downstream from the solenoid, you block it before the air gets to the solenoid.

Download a service manual. It has lots of great pictures.

[Guest]

Don't remove it at first. It is much more simple to plug it. Have you ever replaced your airfilter. If so, you can do this. Just life the tank and take a a good look at the bottom of the airbox. Look at the hoses that come off of the bottom. Find the hose coming from the airbox that is about 3/4"- 1" in diameter. It goes to a small solenoid. The solenoid has the one large hose from the airbox coming to it and two more hoses going to the heads/valvecovers (1 hose to the front cylinder bank and one to the back). Once you are sure the have correct hose from the airbox, pull the hose off the airbox. It probably has a ring retainer on it. Stuff the marble in that hose*. Put the hose back on. Done!

If the hose you are looking at goes directly from the airbox to the engine without going through a solenoid, that is the wrong hose.

*I can't say for sure that it works this way on a 5th gen, but you only need one marble on a 6th gen. Rather than blocking it downstream from the solenoid, you block it before the air gets to the solenoid.

Download a service manual. It has lots of great pictures.

mine is a 5th gen but in the 2001 models it has the same v-tech and concepts as 6th gen just setup is different on most areas

[CandyRedRC46]

v-tech is a phone

vtec is a motorcycle

[Bassie]

Most make it way too complicated.

If you look from the front wheel to the oil-cooler, you just unscrew the two screws that hold the oil-cooler in place.

(do not remove the oilcooler or disconnect it!)

Then you can lower the oilcooler a bit.

Then you see this:

This give you plenty room to unhook the reed tubes and put a marble in both.

Connect them again, put the oilcooler back in place, and done.

That's it.

I do block the both reed tubes (or do all three if you like) because the professionals remove the system and use blocking plates to do the same.

[Bassie]

To add, here is a picture of the front valve being blocked with a marble:

And I blocked the back pairing by putting a marble on the other side, just lift the tank and it's the last tube on the back cylinderhead.

I double checked to be sure.

See back pairing marble block:

I double checked to be sure, as I did it a few weeks ago.

[Bassie]

I have a 01 vfr800, with mod's as follows/pc3usb with cozey map (330ohm resisters),yoshimura rs3 carbon fiber slip-on, and a bunch more, but I've really been wanting to do the airbox mod and I've read too many threads to come to a good conclusion on what to do, idc about sound I just wanna let her breath and get the most out of the pc3 and Yoshi or get the most performance I can with diy stuff, so the thread starts and I'm interested to see what ya'll have to say, everyone says flapper, pair valve, and snorkel but Idk what the hell I'm doing lol, so witch one actually does something and wich one's don't? any advice would be great, thank you

I have a 01 vfr800, with mod's as follows/pc3usb with cozey map (330ohm resisters),yoshimura rs3 carbon fiber slip-on, and a bunch more, but I've really been wanting to do the airbox mod and I've read too many threads to come to a good conclusion on what to do, idc about sound I just wanna let her breath and get the most out of the pc3 and Yoshi or get the most performance I can with diy stuff, so the thread starts and I'm interested to see what ya'll have to say, everyone says flapper, pair valve, and snorkel but Idk what the hell I'm doing lol, so witch one actually does something and wich one's don't? any advice would be great, thank you

oh K&N air filter btw :)

Did you ever do the mod???

[Guest]

I'm doing it today, changed spark plugs and put 12v adapter on last night and I've had so much going on I forgot about it till last night so I'm headed to walmart for some marble now

[Guest]

Most make it way too complicated.

If you look from the front wheel to the oil-cooler, you just unscrew the two screws that hold the oil-cooler in place.

(do not remove the oilcooler or disconnect it!)

Then you can lower the oilcooler a bit.

Then you see this:

This give you plenty room to unhook the reed tubes and put a marble in both.

Connect them again, put the oilcooler back in place, and done.

That's it.

I do block the both reed tubes (or do all three if you like) because the professionals remove the system and use blocking plates to do the same.

Ok I got the cooler loose, and there's 3 hose wich I've been pulling like a mother fu**er and can't get off anyways the side that has the 2 hoses do I just block the one that goes to the front valve then do the one on the cylinder head under the tank near the rear spark plugs? someone please reply lol

[Bassie]

I would simply follow them, one goes to the airbox, that one can stay as it is.

The other two; each goto a cilinder between the exhaust and the spark-plug.

It's those you have to put a marble in and reconnect them.

Normally they go off quite easy.

Did you remove the clamp on the tube first?

[Guest]

I would simply follow them, one goes to the airbox, that one can stay as it is.

The other two; each goto a cilinder between the exhaust and the spark-plug.

It's those you have to put a marble in and reconnect them.

Normally they go off quite easy.

Did you remove the clamp on the tube first?

yeah I got em off and blocked those 2 off and the bike feels nasty, idk but it feels a whole lot better, it was a pain in the arse though lol

[vfrAustin]

I would simply follow them, one goes to the airbox, that one can stay as it is.

The other two; each goto a cilinder between the exhaust and the spark-plug.

It's those you have to put a marble in and reconnect them.

Normally they go off quite easy.

Did you remove the clamp on the tube first?

Bassie, Your always have great ideas and I have followed your lead more than a few times.

I wanted to do the pair block off but decided to pass on the marbles. I got it done in about ten minutes.

Lift the tank

Pull the PAIR tube off the front, just reach in and free up the hose clamp, pull the front hose free

Free up the clamp and pull the rear hose off

Get 2 - 1/2" screw protectors from Home Depot's magic drawers, Gray Rubber caps #78098

Place the caps over the PAIR outlet/inlet then put the hoses back on

DONE!

Bike runs like it is meant to run!!! And it is reversible like the marble trick.

Very glad I did it

[Bassie]

I was thinking of these caps too.

However, I didn't have them and I was worried about the temps, as the raids do get hot.

Will they meld?

If they don't I do want to know, as I really want to remove the entire system, have rode enough with the marbles to know I want to remove it in total.

But by leaving the valves in place, I can reinstall it easily.

Please let me know how they look after 1000 miles

[Rush2112]

I was thinking of these caps too.

However, I didn't have them and I was worried about the temps, as the raids do get hot.

Will they meld?

If they don't I do want to know, as I really want to remove the entire system, have rode enough with the marbles to know I want to remove it in total.

But by leaving the valves in place, I can reinstall it easily.

Please let me know how they look after 1000 miles

Get vacuum line plugs from an auto parts store. Look exactly the same and made for high temp = no worries

[vfrAustin]

I was thinking of these caps too.

However, I didn't have them and I was worried about the temps, as the raids do get hot.

Will they meld?

If they don't I do want to know, as I really want to remove the entire system, have rode enough with the marbles to know I want to remove it in total.

But by leaving the valves in place, I can reinstall it easily.

Please let me know how they look after 1000 miles

Get vacuum line plugs from an auto parts store. Look exactly the same and made for high temp = no worries

A few long "Brisk" rides and the plugs I used look exactly the same as when installed.

[Switchblade]

I used both ports for PVC system.

[lancando]

I would simply follow them, one goes to the airbox, that one can stay as it is.

The other two; each goto a cilinder between the exhaust and the spark-plug.

It's those you have to put a marble in and reconnect them.

Normally they go off quite easy.

Did you remove the clamp on the tube first?

What if you just blocked the one from the airbox?