Member Contributer bmart Posted April 21, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted April 21, 2013 Howdy all, I know that you've been down the electronics path with this year/model and I've read the many informative posts. (http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/70692-stator-replacement-parts-list/) I have a new Motobatt battery (13 V) and a new ElectroSport R/R (13.5V at idle and 14.1 at RPM). The stator works when cool (20 VAC at idle and 60 VAC at RPM), but fails as soon as the bike warms up (11.3 VAC at idle and 12.7 VAC at RPM) about 40 minutes into a ride. My questions are simple: 1) Will I need to order anything in addition to the stator, such as the engine cover gasket (I think yes)? 2) Will I need any special tools (Some place I look say yes, others say no)? 3) Most importantly, which stator should I order (and do I have the correct p/ns and cheapest retailers)? -Ricks ~$130 p/n 386-2350 -Electrosport ~$135 p/n ESG529 (shows that it works for 98-01 and replaces 31120-MBG-D01, 31120-MBG-003) -Servicehonda ~171 p/n 31120-MBG-D01 OR ~$173 31120-MBG-003 (difference looks like 003 might be D01 now?) Thanks all. Eventually this VFR is going to work properly! I'm hoping to order parts this week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NakedViffer Posted April 21, 2013 Share Posted April 21, 2013 If you're careful and the gasket isn't super bonded to the cover, you can usually save them and re-use them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted April 21, 2013 Share Posted April 21, 2013 get a couple of very very long metric bolts and cut the heads off so they are just studs. as long as you can find 'em. use those as "guide pins" to put the cover back on again, as the magnets of the rotor are very strong and tend to yank the cover (with the stator inside) off target, making it hard to line up. do the other bolts up, then thread out the homemade guide pins, and replace with bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted April 21, 2013 Share Posted April 21, 2013 get a couple of very very long metric bolts and cut the heads off so they are just studs. as long as you can find 'em. use those as "guide pins" to put the cover back on again, as the magnets of the rotor are very strong and tend to yank the cover (with the stator inside) off target, making it hard to line up. do the other bolts up, then thread out the homemade guide pins, and replace with bolts. Nice trick that one!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer bmart Posted April 21, 2013 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 21, 2013 Thanks for the tips. Anything good or bad about the four stator options? Did I miss any? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted April 21, 2013 Share Posted April 21, 2013 1) Will I need to order anything in addition to the stator, such as the engine cover gasket (I think yes)? As mentioned above, they often come off virtually intact, you'll prolly have to cut the gasket where the wires enter the cover (where the thick rubber grommet is), but when reassembling a little gasket goo and you're aces. 2) Will I need any special tools (Some place I look say yes, others say no)? Torx key (similar to Allen keys but star shaped)... can't remember the sizing, maybe 4mm or 5mm... this will be required to remove the 4 or 5 bolts that fix the stator to the inside of the engine cover.. and a another one that screws down a bracket to keep the wires from entering the rotor/stator intercourse matrix (just made these words up but they sound convincing don't they??). 3) Most importantly, which stator should I order (and do I have the correct p/ns and cheapest retailers)? Any of the options you mention are fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer bmart Posted April 21, 2013 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 21, 2013 For not a lot more $ the Honda one seems to last longer. Any idea of the difference between ~$171 p/n 31120-MBG-D01 OR ~$173 31120-MBG-003, or if only one will work on the 1999 VFR? I search the Internet without much luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted April 22, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted April 22, 2013 http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Honda/Motorcycle/1999/VFR800FI+A/ALTERNATOR/parts.html or some guys have gone this route http://www.customrewind.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer bmart Posted April 22, 2013 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 22, 2013 Thanks. The catch for me is that the Electrosport version replaces both Honda numbers. In math, that (might) make both Honda parts equal-ish. I'm just trying to work that out. If both would fit/work and one is superior, I'd rather get that superior one. That second link gave me all kinds of malware warnings, FYI. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted April 22, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted April 22, 2013 Here's a thread http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/73902-stator-rewinding/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 The Ricks Stator is wound differently from the OEM stator. The OEM stators are Delta wound while many of the aftermarket stators are Wye wound. Delta winding results in higher amps but lower voltage. WYE winding results in higher voltage and lower amps. The lower amperage generally aids in longevity. The correct Ricks number should be 21-121. You can order it from my site (www.wiremybike,com) for a discounted price and free shipping in the US. Generally the gasket is ok but if needed I can ship you one or you can pick it up from the dealer. The advice on the alignment studs is good and worth a couple $ for the bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timmythecop Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 DO NOT buy the electrojunk part. It is crap. Repeat..CRAP. also, you will find difficulty removing the allens that hold the stator in place. They have factory locktite on them. I just cut them off and remove the stubs with vice grips later, then use suitable bolts on re-assembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer bmart Posted April 22, 2013 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 22, 2013 <p>I just talked with Honda in CA.</p> <p>Â </p> <p><span style="font-family:'times new roman', serif;"><span style="font-size:12pt;">p/n 31120-MBG-D01 </span></span>is for 2000-2001</p> <p><span style="font-family:'times new roman', serif;"><span style="font-size:12pt;">p/n 31120-MBG-003</span></span> is for 1998-1999</p> <p>Â </p> <p>They could not tell me if they were different in any way or if they were interchangable.</p> <p>Â </p> <p>Does anyone here know if they are interchangeable and what the difference might be (longevity, winding type, connectors, etc.)?</p> <p>Â </p> <p>Has anyone used the D01 on the 1998-1999 model?</p> <p>Â </p> <p>Also:</p> <p>http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/aftermarket/XP-4185276.html Rick's for $108, but It seems that some have died within a few months.</p> <p>Â </p> <p>http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/aftermarket/XP-4582843.html Does this Electrosport really fit all of these model Hondas? Perhaps a stator from oen of those would bolt in also.</p> <p>Â </p> <p>This sure gets confusing in a hurry...</p> <p>Â </p> <p>Â </p> <p>Thanks,</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer bmart Posted April 22, 2013 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 22, 2013 On http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/73902-stator-rewinding/ I found http://www.customrewind.com/ (Gary) and 800-798-7282. But the forum said he was retiring. Does anyone know if he is stll around? I got no answer when I called. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sudo Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 On http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/73902-stator-rewinding/ I found http://www.customrewind.com/ (Gary) and 800-798-7282. But the forum said he was retiring. Does anyone know if he is stll around? I got no answer when I called. Keep calling throughout the day. It took me a few tries to get him on the phone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer CornerCarver Posted April 23, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted April 23, 2013 leave him a message or let me know if you want his cell number. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer bmart Posted April 23, 2013 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 23, 2013 I've tried him a bunch of times without luck. It just rings until it stops. lol My diagnostic work has taken a step backward. I realized that my stator AC check was supposed to be done unplugged. So today I got in another 80 miles. AT home teh voltage was fluctuating slightly. The stator was 60VAC across each of the three options. The diodes on the R/R tested perfectly. I did add a new ground strap this morning. This is making less sense the more diagnostic work I do... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted April 24, 2013 Share Posted April 24, 2013 Sounds like your stator is working ok...unless when it gets hot the wires short internally...sometimes that happens because the lacquer they are coated with fails at high temps and comes off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earthshake Posted April 24, 2013 Share Posted April 24, 2013 Sounds like your stator is working ok...unless when it gets hot the wires short internally...sometimes that happens because the lacquer they are coated with fails at high temps and comes off. I suspect that this is what happened on my 98. It would pass the service manual tests when cool, but I would lose one phase of the stator when it was hot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer bmart Posted April 27, 2013 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 27, 2013 Back at it today. I replaced the ground wire the other day despite it measuring no loss. Today I replaced the short power line from the 30 amp fuse to the wire harnes connector. One end showed some corrosion and it showed about .3V loss. Still, it varies from 12.3V-13.5V at idle, and 13.3V-14.2V at RPM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 14.2 will get you there. That's how my bike has been for years and years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer bmart Posted April 27, 2013 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 27, 2013 We'd agree if it stayed at 14.2, but it does not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 Ride it. If it starts every time, all summer long, then you don't have a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer bmart Posted April 28, 2013 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 28, 2013 It does not; there is a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.