(R/r's) Mosfet + Shunt + Series + Compu-Fire + Factory + Aftermarket + Where To Buy = Overwhelming Confusion !

[CHUCK2]

R/R's:

MOSFET + Shunt + Series + Compu-Fire + Factory + Aftermarket + Where To

Buy = OVERWHELMING CONFUSION !!

Why so many? What's the difference? Which is better? Can they be used on all Gen's?

UGG!!

[KevCarver]

http://roadstercycle.com/

[JZH]

He's the guy that says series reg/recs get really hot because "the heat has to go somewhere"...

Ciao,

[KevCarver]

He's the guy that says series reg/recs get really hot because "the heat has to go somewhere"...

Ciao,

Um, ok... I didn't see anywhere that he claims an engineering background. He's selling a nicely put together kit, IMHO. It's the same set up I am running, but with the newest updated Shindengen R/R and all the bits required coming from one place. I had to scour the ebays for a while looking for a cheap used R1 R/R, then source the connectors and terminals from another place. Then fab up a bracket to mount it. Roadster has it all under one roof. Easy peasy.

[Tightwad]

If you want a direct replacement (plugs in no muss no fuss) but you want an upgraded unit, buy the Ricks Motorsports High Output R/R. This is available on their site directly at www.ricksmotorsports.com or you can purchase through my site at www.wiremybike.com and get a discount + free shipping.

[CandyRedRC46]

i had the series type compufire, it was nice, rock solid voltage and never even got warm to the touch (even in traffic) but it failed after 2 years.

i have the mosfet type fh020aa from roadstercycle.com now and it is even better than the compufire. hopefully it will last longer. it does get warm, but nothing like the all oe shunt type regulators do. i am running a vfrness grounding and power kit, so i just ran the new rr straight to the battery with a fuse in between. that way i dont have to worry about all those burnt up connections. you should run a voltage gauge too to keep an eye on things. i do not know how i ever lived with out one.

[NakedViffer]

That kit actually isn't priced too bad. I ended up paying about $90 for just the R1 R/R and the connectors from Eastern Beaver. And I got the 04-06 model FH011, which I am going to need to shave the fins on before I can fit it under my side plastic. I though about a different mounting place than the subframe, and if I had full fairings I would, but it just ends up dirtying up the look of my bike.

[Switchblade]

+1 and he has great prices.

He's the guy that says series reg/recs get really hot because "the heat has to go somewhere"...

Ciao,

Um, ok... I didn't see anywhere that he claims an engineering background. He's selling a nicely put together kit, IMHO. It's the same set up I am running, but with the newest updated Shindengen R/R and all the bits required coming from one place. I had to scour the ebays for a while looking for a cheap used R1 R/R, then source the connectors and terminals from another place. Then fab up a bracket to mount it. Roadster has it all under one roof. Easy peasy.

[CHUCK2]

If you want a direct replacement (plugs in no muss no fuss) but you want an upgraded unit, buy the Ricks Motorsports High Output R/R. This is available on their site directly at www.ricksmotorsports.com or you can purchase through my site at www.wiremybike.com and get a discount + free shipping.

Tightwad ~ would you explain what makes these R/R's different from each other please ?

And thanks for the offer!

[Tightwad]

The R/R I sell (that Ricks makes) is a MOSFET style R/R. This is the same technology the R1 R/R uses (fh020aa, fh011). The oem is a shunt style using a less efficient method than the MOSFETs and thus they tend to generate more heat. The Series styles claim to be able to actually disconnect from the stator which effectively would turn it off.

[CandyRedRC46]

The series style rr rapidly switches on and off to "disconnect" from the stator, which is a really cool idea, as it only uses as much power as it needs and doesnt have to waste power bleeding it back into ground, generating heat. But, my compufire didn't like the vfr and overcharged above 10,000 rpms. At 11,000 rpms my voltage would spike to 16 or 17 volts. Not fun.

[timmythecop]

If you want a direct replacement (plugs in no muss no fuss) but you want an upgraded unit, buy the Ricks Motorsports High Output R/R. This is available on their site directly at www.ricksmotorsports.com or you can purchase through my site at www.wiremybike.com and get a discount + free shipping.

Just dropped more money than I have ever spent on my VFR (at one time) on your site. I decided to do it right, and stop messing around. 60 million Tightwad fans cant be wrong!

Stator, Reg/Rec, VFRness and a gasket. Shame I didnt know about the discount. (I already checked out and paid)

[coderighter]

He's the guy that says series reg/recs get really hot because "the heat has to go somewhere"...

Ciao,

I found that funny also!

[Switchblade]

He's the guy that says series reg/recs get really hot because "the heat has to go somewhere"...

Ciao,

I found that funny also!

No mercy here.

[timmythecop]

this is how it is done, my friends

[Switchblade]

You mean you can buy that stuff, have been repairing mine, WOW ....

[KevCarver]

this is how it is done, my friends

That's one way to do it...

[Tightwad]

All beautiful stuff Timmy! Don't worry about the discount (not even sure what you mean actually)....my site is not advertised and is geared for the VFRD crowd specifically...all my business comes from word of mouth and reputation so there isn't a specific discount code.

[timmythecop]

I fiigured as much, tightwad, and to tell you the truth, the cost seems the same, if not better as some other iiffy components on the ebay. Plus, I dont mind paying for the thought that went into this set up.

[CHUCK2]

Thanks for all the responses. You guys are great!

I wonder....would we still have all these R/R problems if the regulator & rectifier were 2 separate parts??

[timmythecop]

Thanks for all the responses. You guys are great!

I wonder....would we still have all these R/R problems if the regulator & rectifier were 2 separate parts??

They used to be that way and they were terrible (at least on 60's Hondas).

and now it is time for somebody to bring up the infamous Zener Diode. (and no, I am not making that up!)

[Switchblade]

Yeah but they ran forever .......

[timmythecop]

All that stuff is installed and I am charging like never before. (I think I spent more time scraping the gasket surface that it takes to put this stuff on) So nice to have the yellow peril back! I contacted the rep from electrosport and gave him the business about that crappy thing they call a stator and he offered me a free replacement. Why would I put another one of those turds in my bike? Tightwad's VFRness couldn't have been simpler to install and everything seemed big, beefy and professional.

I even changed the oil while I was there.

Job done.

[timmythecop]

New electrical pieces before she met her cousin.

[auggius]

Well rather than start another thread I may as well piggyback off of this one.

First ride of the year and I went to get gas and as I rolled to a stop by the pump Daryl (the gas station owner) says "you're smoking." I knew he wasn't referring to me. I had just changed a headlight bulb and a wiring harness for my new Powerlet electric jacket. All innocuous enough and not the issue. Started the bike again and it ran fine. Gassed up and got ready to go again. Click....no go. Aarrrghh! Called my wife to come down with the car, jump started the bike and rode home. It's smoking again. Took the fairings off and found...drum roll...a burned out connector to the regulator/rectifier, of course. So my first ride of the year lasted 2km.

So I will be ordering new parts from WireMyBike. I need a new r/r for sure, and will get the VFRness and a voltmeter too. My stator tested okay with the continuity checks, but the other test is the AC checks with the bike running. Obviously that isn't happening right now. So what are the odds that the stator is okay?

And on a related note, I charged my battery with a trickle charger. But now it doesn't work anymore. Could a bad battery ruin a charger? The charger is a 12V 1amp Canadian Tire unit, over 15 years old. Or do chargers just stop working?