Jump to content

How To Fix A Jumpy Speedometer


HispanicSlammer
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Forum CEO

If you notice your speedometer is jumping around or not working at all chances are your speed sensor is wore out, or more accurately the nut that drives the sensor wont make contact with the sprocket bolt anymore.

gallery_491_4136_62525.jpg

Locate the Speed Sensor it is right over the front sprocket

gallery_491_4136_81734.jpg

Remove the 2 bolts with an 8mm nut driver

gallery_491_4136_54437.jpg

Speed sensor pulls right out

gallery_491_4136_12370.jpg

Replace the nylon nut driver the old one prys right off the shaft

gallery_491_4136_73140.jpg

Old worn out nut driver the nylon part would not make contact with the sprocket bolt.

It is a simple 5 minute fix and the replacement nut costs around 5 bucks

Part number 44080-MR7-013 speedometer, joint

  • Like 4
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 years later...

Hey HispanicSlammer, thanks for the write up. I had the same issue with my 4th gen and thanks to this post now its fixed.

Here is the part number for the 4th gen Speedometer, joint. : 44808-MR7-013

Note: when installing the new joint do not force it in. just push in as far as it goes with light pressure.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Thanks alot, I need to order one but in the mean time put some seal packing rtv goop in there and its working perfectly so far untill the new one gets in. Crazy how satisfying fixing such a small thing is.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Forum CEO

I forgot to mention to make sure the new nut is seated properly on the sprocket bolt head, if its not and you start torquing the bolts back in to the speed sensor, you will need a new one again! Also some new aftermarket sprockets that are not the same width could be an issue with the spacing of the nut and the bolt head, might not properly engage, an easy fix for that is just some washers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 10 months later...
Guest da9b20

update- correct part number 44808-MR7-013. Thanks for the write up Slammer. And thanks for all the great work on the site.

i need to look into the washer thing. any suggestions on what type of washer?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 8 months later...

I thought I saw a pic of a metal version (That will not wear out?)

I doubt a metal joint will last that much longer. And if it does: I'd rather have that €6 nylon wear out over 50K mls than both the joint and the far more expensive speedo sensor drive pin after 100K.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Hello. I am new to this forum. I am about to replace the speed sensor on my 1998 VFR800 for the fifth time in 97,000 miles. I have never worn the plastic drive nut out; the units just plain fail. I have done all the trouble shooting described in my Honda shop manual and everything consistently points to the speed sensor. Every time I replace the sensor the speedometer works like new again. I contacted Honda after the third unit failed and they told me to "take it to the shop". I am at my wit's end with this thing. As the miles add up on this bike the speed sensors last less and less miles. This last sensor is failing at about 3,000 miles. I can't keep replacing the sensors. Any help or advice is greatly appreciated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After reading all the posts it convinced me to take a closer look at my failed speed sender unit. What I initially thought was an acceptable condition plastic drive coupling probably really is the root cause to all my failures. I looked at how loosely the drive nut on the countershaft sprocket fits into the plastic drive couple and it appears that the drive probably is slipping in the plastic couple. I'll feel like a real idiot for replacing 5 sensor units on my bike if this was the real reason for my failures, not to mention I'm out of about $600.00 to replace all the units I thought were broken.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...
  • Member Contributer

If I had a CNC mill, I'd be making something like this:

 

s-l1600.jpg

 

Sadly, I do not, but some Chinese dude obviously does: eBay 261358076567 (about US$14, shipped).

 

Ciao,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
1 hour ago, JZH said:

If I had a CNC mill, I'd be making something like this:

 

s-l1600.jpg

 

Sadly, I do not, but some Chinese dude obviously does: eBay 261358076567 (about US$14, shipped).

 

Ciao,

Member SFdownhill and I grabbed a handful of these for $10 ea. (shipping included), some sort of special he stumbled upon. A couple for my two VFRs, a couple for his and Hammerdrill's VFR.  Haven't picked mine up from him yet but I believe he installed his already. We'll see how long they last, or how quickly they destroy the sensor drive pin! (re: V$ Rosso's post)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...
  • Member Contributer
On 6/22/2017 at 6:12 PM, Duc2V4 said:

Member SFdownhill and I grabbed a handful of these for $10 ea. (shipping included), some sort of special he stumbled upon. A couple for my two VFRs, a couple for his and Hammerdrill's VFR.  Haven't picked mine up from him yet but I believe he installed his already. We'll see how long they last, or how quickly they destroy the sensor drive pin! (re: V$ Rosso's post)

So, what's the verdict on these?

I was just thinking about seeing if @SEBSPEED would be able to machine some, but at $16.79 (2020 price) shipped from Hong Kong I'm wondering what kind of volume it would take to compete.

I couldn't find it anywhere in the parts fiche, but the part# (44808-MR&-013) still calls up the correct plastic part for under $6 (US).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
6 hours ago, BuzznerSuntrusts said:

So, what's the verdict on these?

I was just thinking about seeing if @SEBSPEED would be able to machine some, but at $16.79 (2020 price) shipped from Hong Kong I'm wondering what kind of volume it would take to compete.

I couldn't find it anywhere in the parts fiche, but the part# (44808-MR&-013) still calls up the correct plastic part for under $6 (US).

My verdict is that it didn't seem to last any longer than the plastic ones. I already replaced mine, probably should have written down the mileage but alas I don't think I did, sorry. I did think that I could use a bolt the same size as the one that holds the sprocket, to act as a mould and use some JB weld to rebuild the inner part of it but kind of gave up on that idea. I also thought of doing the same thing with the plastic ones using some plastic epoxy but again, probably more work than it's worth.

 

TLDR: Didn't last any longer than the plastic OEM one for me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

The plastic ones work just fine if you adjust them on the shaft so they fully engage the sprocket bolt head. The problem is usually due to aftermarket sprockets being thinner than stock so the plastic cup doesn't fully engage the bolt head causing it to start slipping. Could also be due to careless installation of the cover causing the plastic cup to move further down the shaft than it should be.

 

If the plastic cup is truly worn a bit of silicone sealant is easy to apply, and easily removable. Even tape will work in a pinch. Been there, done that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
11 hours ago, Duc2V4 said:

My verdict is that it didn't seem to last any longer than the plastic ones. I already replaced mine, probably should have written down the mileage but alas I don't think I did, sorry. I did think that I could use a bolt the same size as the one that holds the sprocket, to act as a mould and use some JB weld to rebuild the inner part of it but kind of gave up on that idea. I also thought of doing the same thing with the plastic ones using some plastic epoxy but again, probably more work than it's worth.

 

TLDR: Didn't last any longer than the plastic OEM one for me.

Thanks for the update! My main concern was not seeing it on the fiche, but then I found this thread and got the part#, so I know they are still available.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

I ended up getting a couple of them years ago, but I found that the ones I bought didn't quite fit the sprocket bolt head on my FP.  I could have modified it to fit, but I don't think I ever did (that bike has not, er, run for several years...).  It is disappointing that they don't last, though.  I had high hopes!

 

Ciao,

 

JZH

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 4/17/2020 at 2:54 PM, BuzznerSuntrusts said:

So, what's the verdict on these?

I was just thinking about seeing if @SEBSPEED would be able to machine some, but at $16.79 (2020 price) shipped from Hong Kong I'm wondering what kind of volume it would take to compete.

I couldn't find it anywhere in the parts fiche, but the part# (44808-MR&-013) still calls up the correct plastic part for under $6 (US).

 

No self-respecting "first world" job shop can compete with China. I'd make more money working a minimum wage job for a day than trying to make a handful of those for $17, and that's the sad truth. 

 

IF someone had an automated cnc and better programming software than I do (ie, someone who has invested $50k+), AND they got an order for hundreds of these, then it might be worthwhile. 

 

My plastic part is fine at almost 50k with aftermarket sprockets for most of its life, I wouldnt hesitate to buy another for 50k of use. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Yeah, but think of the potential bling!  You could make a "windowed sprocket cover" and powder coat the sprocket and speedo thingambob in contrasting colours...

 

Ciao,

 

JZH

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Member Contributer

Not to flog a dead horse but I did find a picture of the aluminum one after it gave up the ghost...

 

IMG_4192.thumb.jpeg.98c0a6ad75e9d231d4a404db1d62c533.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

This exact thing happened to me on the way to a SumSum. We stopped to meed HS and he figured this out and solved the problem for me. The issue was with an aftermarket front sprocket. Honda's OEM sprocket has a rubber cushion attached that quiets the works and makes the assembly wider. Mine had an aftermarket sprocket that was thinner than OEM so the plastic nut eventually worked it's way out of engagement.

 

If one looks at a fifth gen overall there are many noise and vibration dampeners throughout the machine; even the OEM foot pedals are rubber isolated. More comfort for ones feet. Any I want to give Honda engineers kudos for the great overall design of my fifth gens. :wub:

 

BTW: thanks again to Miguel for fixing this for me.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Thank you for posting this fix. I ordered the part and made the fix, such a simple solution to something that’s bugged me for a whole season! I always appreciate the posts and experience of others!

 

Zubin

’04 Asphalt

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy.