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Phlebmaster's 1987 Vfr750F Evolution- Full Of Pics And Win!


Guest Phlebmaster

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I have put about 80 miles on it so far. I have some kinks to work out with the carbs and a few small things.

This bike is hands down quicker than the 1990 VFR (red one in my pics).... The Yoshi exhaust has a nice sound, almost Ducati like. Can't wait to start on the paint!

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  • 1 month later...

I rebuilt the carbs and rejetted them for a proper fuel ratio considering the exhaust and snorkel mod. I have put over 300 miles on her and she goes like stink!

Now I had to get started on paint.... so here we go! Yes, it was a single can of spray paint from Home Depot....but it still looks good.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Had a meltdown at the starter relay so I tore the bike apart looking for the elusive electrical gremlin that caused this sudden misfortune. after striping and tracing the entire harness (finding nothing remarkable) I wrapped it back up and traced the switches on each handlebar, connectors, and even the cluster mess behind the speedo, again finding nothing. No burnt or cut wires and all grounds were intact.

My symptoms- to hopefully help others in my predicament:

She ran perfect, however my R/R was under the seat and the last couple of rides my butt was on fire! That was something new from other times I rode this bike for longer distances with no fried cheeks. I just figured it was the exhaust and sat in a cool bath.... lol

Then I took the bike one time to go around the block and I smelt electrical burning and saw the dreaded smoke rising from R side rear cowl. UGH!! Low and behold the 30 amp fuse was melted and so was the starter relay where the wires join the party. So that was shot.... I wasn't sure what caused the melt down so I rerouted a fuse link to test things.

At idle (at first) there were no symptoms or heating of the wires on the relay. The R/R was hot (like normal), but the wires were not that came from the R/R....only at the starter relay AND only after I turned on the headlight (which I have switched for on/off control). When I turn on the lights or indicators the relay wire would heat up and smoke....but when I turned it off the smoke would stop. Very strange!

Tested the R/R at the battery- ~13.5 volts at idle and ~14 at 5000 rpm which seemed fine. I traced the wires for continuity and for shorts to ground and still nothing.

Then after much research here and there I discovered that I needed to check my regulator/rectifier. What I found was the R/R was replaced previously with a cheapy R/R from an old Kawi. I was baffled and had no idea you could replace that part with something from a different bike altogether.

So after doing more research I decided to go ahead and upgrade my charging system in addition to switching to a new tech mosfet R/R such as an FH0012AA or FH0020AA from a newer bike. I used 10 gauge wire for this upgrade (overkill I know) but I want to make sure the system was not going to fail due to resistance again.

Now all I need is a new starter relay and the above mentioned mosfet R/R. :-)

All too common sight with these bikes....

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Yikes! I was riding with this mess....my fault for not checking. :P

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Here is the 10 gauge wire, liquid electric tape and other assorted task oriented stuff to get the job done.

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I had the wiring diagram for reference

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30 amp fusible link...good to have!

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Getting everything put together.

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Wired the positive and negative from the R/R directly to the battery as suggested by many sources...

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The new home for the mosfet R/R as soon as I can get one.,...lol Hope to find one soon.

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Ready to rock!! The idea behind mounting here is to keep airflow on the regulator and out from under my butt!

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Here is what I am getting....this is the latest and greatest and I will never have another R/R failure again.

http://roadstercycle.com/

FH020AA Upgrade.... yes, I can use a R/R from a 2012 bike. This is a common upgrade for many bikes who have R/R failures.

I have also upgraded my charging system to boot with the 10g wires and air tight connections. I clipped and re-wired the stator as close to the cover as I could.

Should be here on Monday... Can't wait!

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I replaced the diode R/R with a mosfet FH012AA from an 2010 Yamaha R1 to reduce heat and replaced the charging system wiring with 10 gauge.

This was an easy upgrade and I recommend it! The bike is steady at ~14.45- 14.55 volts regardless of RPM or accessories.

http://youtu.be/z6tfes65ieg

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Electrical system is working flawlessly! My headlights light up the world at night...no more cluster light flickers with the turn signals on and everything is going well!

Now I am ready for the CBR F2-F3 suspension upgrade.... Actively looking for parts to complete this venture.

Want to start with the rear wheel and shock upgrade. The suspension upgrade is about the only thing I have left to do aside from cosmetics on this bike.....function is more important to me. It looks like a track bike now and that is fine with me. :D

Here is what I need for the rear wheel upgrade: (taken from here) http://www.hondavfr.org/faq1_4.html

F2 wheel
F2 cush drive/dampers
F2 wheel bearings/dust seals
F2 distance collar
F2 cush drive bearing
F2 rotor
F2 rear sprocket*

Ride-height adjustable shock**

** The Fox Twin-Clicker makes this simple.

Would like inverted forks from a 99 GSXR 1100 with complete wheel/brakes etc... But will settle for the F2-F3 set up. I know these parts are not cheap so I hope to find a good deal somewhere.

I know there is someone on this board with these parts sitting in a shed...lol

More to post when these parts come available!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Looks good !!!!!

Thanks!!

Today I upgraded my fuel system and made a seat pad...finally. My tush was getting pretty sore and my kidneys will appreciate the padding. :-)

The fuel pump is a Mr Gasket 42s which puts out 28 gpm @ 2-3.5psi....which my bike really likes!

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most wheels on ebay do not have the cush drive and sprocket. I used the VF500 cush drive on my F2 swap so I have an extra F2 cush drive/sprocket for you if it will help, so get out there and bid on the rest of the stuff.

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most wheels on ebay do not have the cush drive and sprocket. I used the VF500 cush drive on my F2 swap so I have an extra F2 cush drive/sprocket for you if it will help, so get out there and bid on the rest of the stuff.

Nice! Thanks for the offer...

Now I am ready for the CBR F2-F3 suspension upgrade....

Today I picked up these items!!

F2 wheel

F2 cush drive/dampers

F2 wheel bearings/dust seals

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  • 1 year later...

Hey Phlebmaster, I heard you sold this bike. Is it true?

Anyway, The reason the wire mented on you by the relay was because Honda designed the entire bikes electrical power to come from one little 16 or so gauge wire and a female spade terminal. It's not smart at all. If that spade terminal gets even a tiny bit of corrosion it will develop increased resistance and that leads to heat. As these bikes get old the spade connector gets corroded and weak from all the heat cycles and eventually things start to melt and smoke.

I did something similar to you and bypassed the relay, except for the 2 solenoid wires.

Anyway, I see you ran the reg/rec charging wire through a 30 amp fuse, but it looks like the bikes main power wire from the battery to the ignition does NOT have a fuse. That's a big safety concern there.

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