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I screwed up (bike not running)


ZenMoto

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So ...I'm usually a pretty good mechanic (usually). I've torn VFRs down to the frame and put them back, etc..

But I just did a valve check / adjustment on my 2010 (a little overdue at 17.5k) and only found 2 exhaust valves (uni-cam) that were barely out (on the loose side) and one intake (shim under bucket) that was out by .01mm (loose again). Adjusted them all back into spec, if a little on the loose side of center. When all was said and done, got the bike back together and she ran with a bit of a stumble; like it was just missing on one cylinder a little bit. ...hmmmm

I figured I either pinched a vacuum line putting the manifold back on (easy enough to do with all the connectors that get stuffed in a small space) or I didn't fully seat one of the coils on the front bank (also easy to do as it is a REALLY tight fit in there and hard to get downward pressure on the coils ...and you can't see because of the plastic heat shield).

...so I tear it apart again ...all the way apart. Double and triple check everything, make damn sure the coils are seated and am meticulous about nestling all the connectors around the manifold where they don't exert pressure on anything. Get the bike all back together with the tank hooked back up.

NOW the bike won't even fire! :(

Looking back, I forgot to disconnect the battery the second time I pulled it apart, and am wondering if it could have messed up the ECU; though, electronically speaking, it really shouldn't make a difference.

It's like the bike wants to go, it cranks and cranks, but it just isn't getting spark. ..and I KNOW everything is hooked up correctly and securely.

Basically I'm hosed at this point, since I have no idea where to look (except I didn't check the fuses ...and to be thorough, when I get home, I should check the fuses).

...any thoughts?

D

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Unfortunately, these newer bikes are not only about gas, spark and compression anymore. All sorts of sensors and servos that have to all work together and satisfy programmed protocols in the ECUs. Can you do some sort of dashboard light blink code diagnostics on the bike or is it completely dead at this point. I'm sure such is described on the workshop manual that you surely have judging on how much you have torn it down and put it together already.

Beck

95 VFR

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...damn computers! lol

Yeah. It's for this reason I think I'm going to keep my 3000GT alive as long as possible. It's a PITA to work on every 60-70k, but it works, and only has a sensor on the crank and camshafts (for obvious reasons). Not looking forward to a new car where I need the dealer to go into the computer to tell it I replaced the windscreen wipers before it will start.

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...damn computers! lol

Yeah. It's for this reason I think I'm going to keep my 3000GT alive as long as possible. It's a PITA to work on every 60-70k, but it works, and only has a sensor on the crank and camshafts (for obvious reasons). Not looking forward to a new car where I need the dealer to go into the computer to tell it I replaced the windscreen wipers before it will start.

It's common for cars these days, like the VWs to not work properly if you just change out your radio to aftermarket because VW connects the thing to the ECU and other vital functions on the car that shares the radios brain or something like that.....I hope it doesn't get as bad as that on bikes in the future.....That was why my Passat's idiot lights were lit up most of the time I owned the car, to the point I could not have the car fixed car anymore cause it cost more to fix tha it was worth.......Didn't VW buy Ducati recently??..... :rolleyes:

Beck

95 VFR

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You're going to have to go back in there again. The problem occurred after reassembly so that is where something went wrong. It could be a pin in a connector, or a connector itself. I gather you're using the factory manual which shows all the connections.

It's something you did (or happened) on reassembly. Not disconnecting the battery should not be an issue.

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Sorry to hear Zen.

While I have no advice that has not already been mentioned, I'm curious to see what your fix is. I'll be due for this before long, so learning via osmosis may save me from doing the same thing. Keep us informed please!

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Years ago I asked an individual how he knew so much about alot of issues? He said he just messed up enough and often he had to learn how to fix it!

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Do you get a mil ?

Maybe I'm tired, but I totally don't understand the question! lol

Thanks for the support guys. I'm going back in this weekend (after I read fault codes), as I MUST get my bike running again; my sanity depends on it! :)

...here's hoping it's not 100+ degrees again this weekend, it makes my garage unbearably hot! I'll be sure to let everyone know what the problem ends up being (provided I can actually find it).

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Dutchgixxer is referring to the fact that your PGM-FI unit can "talk to you" about what is wrong (or you did wrong or forgot)....

Do you have a Service Manual?

Look at page 6-10. The MIL will produce a DTC code on your dash (engine symbol on your dash)

Every DTC MIL code you can find on page 6-14 and 6-15.

At page 6-59 you have some more MIL information,

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Ah, thanks for the clarity. ...I do have the manual and plan to run codes this weekend (never new they were called MIL, I always just referred to them as "fault codes"). I haven't dug through that section yet, but will. ...I know on the 5th gen, you just jumpered a wire on a connector to get the codes to flash.

...fingers crossed! lol

Thanks again for the input!

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The problem can very simple. The wire loom is like a spagetti in and around the engine bay. You can easely forget a connector (somewhere hidden). I had the same problem while replacing the airfilter (simple job). I forgot to connect the IAT sensor (plug on the airbox). The MIL started flashing. The advantage of this bike, is that you don't need a special tool to read the error codes. A simple look at the DTC index helped me out...

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...yeah, I'm shitty mechanic! lol

Finally was cool enough to go back in the garage last night, and it's amazing what a cool head can do for your thought process. "...I guess I *should* flash a trouble code and let that tell me what the f*** is wrong."!!!

"Hmm, error code 21 eh!" shuffle through the manual "...O2 sensor error, hmm, let's see where that plugs in"

Turns out I *did* miss a connector somewhere. ...and it was half buried up between the front cylinder head and the steering stem (where that PITA plastic heat shield is, for those of you who've seen one in person), but I was able to reach it by simply removing the ECU again and fishing around with my fingers. ...the only real difficulty is that the manual calls out colors for the connectors that don't match what's there ...or I don't understand their abbreviations for colors (why can't they just write out the colors?).

For instance, what color wire would you think "Bl/Bu" is; black / blue? One pair of wire is supposed to be Bl/Bu + W ...there are no white wires on either of the two connectors (one connector is the O2 sensor for cylinders 1&4, the other for 2&3). ...neither of the colors mentioned in the manual seem to match what is on the bike, so I made my best guess according to lead length, but tonight I'll put a trace on the wires and make damned sure they are going to the correct sensor.

So I found the connector last night, and plugged it in ...and my battery died before the bike would fire! lol

Had to throw it on the tender overnight. This morning I went out there and she fired right up! :)

...and the stumble has gone away! :)

Now I'm thinking I should see what's involved in a throttle body sync though; no point in getting lazy!!! lol

Thanks for all the well-wishes!

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Still something strange what happened. The engine should be running! Only your MIL should blink.

Otherwise you wouldn't be able to check/test the O2 sensor if something was really wrong. (you have to bring your engine to operational temp. to test the O2 sensor)

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Yeah, according to the manual it should run on a "default" limited performance engine map with an O2 fault. All I can think is that because the fuel had been drained from the system and the bike completely without power for a period of time, the ECU couldn't get *any* O2 reading, and hence, refused to produce a mix that would fire. :/ Maybe because the one sensor was completely unplugged; ...just grasping at straws! lol

But it seemed to run fine for the couple of minutes I let it idle this morning.

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Glad you got it worked out. One thing about modern bikes is their simplicity. Electronics always do the same thing time after time, highly predictable.

Try getting the jetting just right on a pair of twin choke Weber carburetors, or setting up the linkages on a Rochester 4 barrel. The old days were no fun.

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Sounds to me like the new days aren't fun either. I am amazed at your patience and knowledge of these machines. I thank God every day for Sy, and Zoomy and John not to mention the cycle heads on VFRD. Otherwise my little girl would be spending a while in the garage. Congrats on getting her going again Dale.

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Thanks Ed. ...took care of a few other minor bits tonight, then buttoned her back up and took her for a little test ride by moonlight! :)

...all is right with the world again. lol

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