Member Contributer Mohawk Posted July 27, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted July 27, 2012 Phase 2 + Phase 3, sorry I got carried away The story so far, a quick recap, take a 10 year old VFR800 5th Gen & update it as follows;- K&N Air Filter, airbox mods & custom Ramair inlet duct. Complete PAIR system & associated vacuum tubing, removal. Added Lightweight silencer + PC3 & custom fuel map. Traxxion Dynamics AK-20 Front Fork Cartridges (Preload+compression+rebound damping). Nitron Race fully adjustable rear shock (Preload+High/Low Compression+rebound damping). BST Carbon RC45 Front wheel, with Michelin Pilot Pure Tyre. Goodridge Full Brake Line kit, front & rear. Renthal 16 Tooth Front Sprocket + Alloy Rear Sprocket. Healtech Speedo Healer. Removal of all surplus brackets for weight saving where possible. Removed front indicators, replaced with blanking plates & added GSXR Mirror/Indicators. Add alloy engine bolt kit + Titanium fasteners where practical. So move on one year & then do the following;- Phase-2 Remove CBS components & brake lines. Modify front calipers to use front master cylinder ONLY. Replace front master cylinder with CBR600F4 item to restore brake ratio. Add new S/S braided front brake lines, 680 & 740mm long with twin banjo at M/C. Install modified VFR400 rear axle & brake system. Fit BST Carbon RC45 Rear Wheel, with Michelin Pilot Pure Tyre. Add Coil on Plug coils from CBR1000. Make & fit shock heat shield & shock spray protector. Phase-3 Remove mechanical water pump & Blank off hole. Add Electric Water Pump, with lower temp fan control switch. Add custom alloy T piece to front hose to allow recirculation of coolant from thermostat. Specify & have made New Camshafts (base ground spare VFR Cams). Fit new Cams & adjust valve clearances with new shims. Custom Fuel Map & Dyno Setup. Last but not least I made & fitted a LiFe 10A/hr battery which saved 3.2Kg ! Details to of all modification stages are listed below. 13-16. The front calipers need to be stripped & then drilled as per this diagram. Then you need a bolt to seal the central pistons brake banjo hole. That leaves the upper brake banjo to connect to the new M/C with the new brake lines. Use a 5/8th master cylinder to get a proper brake pressure ratio. I used a CBR600F4 M/C as it matches the VFR’s original one. Note the new hoses are 680mm for the right side & 740mm for the left side & you need a double banjo bolt to attach both to the new M/C. As I had removed the secondary master cylinder, I cut & drilled the left mounting bracket to remove all secondary master cylinder components & as much surplus metal as possible to reduce weight . 17. The VFR400 axle needs 2mm turned off the face as marked in this picture. Then the brake hanger also needs 2mm shaved off the inner face to get it to fit behind the 800’s brake mount circlip. Then it’s just a matter of bolting on the 400 parts in place of the 800 ones. You need to use the 400’s Brake master cylinder as well to get the correct brake ratio. 18. Bolt in BST RC45 rear wheel with Michelin Pilot Pure Tyre. You will need an RC30 or RC45 wheels spacer for the right hand side wheel bolt. These have a cone shaped inner face to correctly seat the wheel. The 400 spacer has a flat face & will not work with the RC45 Wheel. 19. Fitting the coils is fairly simple, just buy a set of 2 pin coils which most newer bike have & a connector harness from your donor bike. Remove the existing coils & either add spade connectors to the new harness ends to use the existing cables. Or cut the ends off the existing cables & either solder the new connector on or use bullet connectors to join them. Job done. 20. I decided that the rear shock gets too much heat from the close proximity of the rear exhaust headers to the shock. So with some thought I made a alloy bracket that fits to the frame in front 7 to the right of the battery box. Then cut & folded some beer cans to make a twin walled heat shield. I used some sealant between the inner & outer so that when it was shaped & set it would hold its shape. I then used some neoprene sheet to make a close fitting flap to protect the shock from spray off the back wheel as a fair amount seems to get past the hugger. 21. The original water pump is driven by a slotted shaft from the left side if the oil pump & passes out of the left side of the engine casing in front of the gear lever. When unbolted, it leaves a nice round hole just above the maximum oil level, this is sealed by the water pump body with an O-ring trapped in the inner corner of the hole. The picture shows the alloy plug I had made before it was finished by a friend. We turned two grooves in it & added O-rings, as per the second picture, to seal the inner & outer faces of the water pump hole. 22. I choose a Davies Craig EBP for the water pump, other people have fitted these to 1000cc bikes with no issues, so I considered it would have sufficient flow. When I got the engine running I purged the coolant system of air by running the pump from an external battery with the engine off. When all the air was out, I started the engine & let it warm up, it took over 15 minutes to reach 100c on the bikes temperature gauge. I had a tiny leak from the hose connected to the head coolant input stub since I added the silicone hoses last year, but could not get it to seal. On closer inspection this time I discovered that it’s a strange size & not 25mm O/D like the rest. So I added a couple of layers of heat shrink to bring it up to 25mm. Likewise the EBP only has 19mm (¾”) unions, so I ordered a length of extruded silicone with id 19mm & OD 25mm, then cut a couple of short lengths to slip onto the EBP unions so I could attach the 25mm silicone hoses. The pictures show the test fit & final mounting of the EBP. 23. Originally I had intended to run the cooling system with no thermostat, relying on the Davies Craig Digital Pump controller. Unfortunately whilst it is advertised as compatible on their website it is NOT. They refunded the cost as I only discovered this when the system failed to work on the bike ! So I had to run the pump continuously & thus add the thermostat back in, but this then left me with an issue as to how to get hot coolant to the thermostat to make it open. The standard system has a bypass hose that runs back to the pump from the thermostat housing. So I had an alloy T-piece fabricated & bought another piece of 19mm ID Silicone hose & fitted the T-piece in the bottom coolant return hose from the right radiator. This works rather well. Sorry forgot to take pics of this bit. 24-26. Cams. Comparing theVFR800 cams with the standard RC45 & HRC RC45 specs showed that the VFR cams are tuned for low & midrange torque. Mr RC45 Larry, revealed that although the RC45 throttle bodies are 45mm, the intake trumpets are restricted to 40mm on the standard RC45. The VFR800 has 36mm throttle bodies but the intake trumpets are also 40mm, so they should be able to flow as much air as the standard RC45 & thus achieve approximately 120rwhp. For comparison the CB1300 & Bandit 1200 both use 36mm throttle bodies & flow 50% more air than the VFR at peak rpm. The Belgium made Bio-Blade uses standard throttle bodies plus airbox & puts out 124rwhp with a new set of cams & a little headwork. So I used all this to come up with my own new cam duration figures & had a spare set of cams reprofiled by Piper Cams. The end result can be seen in the dyno charts below, which can be compared with the original custom fuel map dyno results. Old figures were 102rwhp@10,500rpm & 54ft/lbs@8500rpm. New cams give 107rwhp@10500rpm & 57ft/lbs@8500rpm. There are very little losses at the lower rpm & plus 10hp at 10Krpm, over all it’s a 10% increase in hp & torque from my first modified run & about 12% more than a bog standard VFR. Overall the updates make the bike feel alive, it pulls like a train now & accelerates so much faster its amazing. The Carbon wheels & brake mods have shaved 3Kg off the front wheel/lower forks & 7Kg off the end of the swingarm. Overall I have saved 25Kg off the dry weight of the bike. On my scales it shows 104Kg at each end wet for a 50/50 balance & a total weight of 208Kg. The bike handles brilliantly now, you only have to think about changing direction & it happens, I’d say it handles better than the CBR600F4 I used to have & at least equal to the CBR600RR’s I have used at the Ron Haslam Race School this year (2012). 27. LiFe battery. And Finally a couple of pics Enjoy. Phase-4 will replace the front fork lowers with VTR1000 parts & Nissin 4 pots from a CBR929. Plus fit the custom cush drive I have being made at the moment. It's a Hybrid of VFR & Ducati parts. Later Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monk Posted July 27, 2012 Share Posted July 27, 2012 Wow....... Really nice work, looks great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted July 27, 2012 Share Posted July 27, 2012 Wow. That's amazing. I would be worried about potholes bigtime!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Mohawk Posted July 30, 2012 Author Member Contributer Share Posted July 30, 2012 Thanks for the good feedback. There is no need to worry about potholes anymore than you would ona standard bike. These wheels are tougher than standard. They use one wheel for all wheel tests, comapred to any other material wheels, where one new wheel is used per test ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baileyrock Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 Very nice and I love the Blue color also! BR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted July 31, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted July 31, 2012 Wow, very impressive. Fantastic attention to detail. Very nice. (Carbon wheels - oooohhh) - - Tip for the brakes/forks, check my gallery for a VTR1000 lower/VFR800 upper, and RC51 4 pots, M/C and fender mounts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NakedViffer Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 Is that Civic Si blue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 Probably Candy Aleutian Blue. It was a stock colour for the 5th gen. 6th gens were Lapis Blue Metallic, which I like better, personally. The anniversary R/W/B models were Pearl Spencer Blue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer CornerCarver Posted July 31, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted July 31, 2012 Great job, very well documented upgrades and pics. Am I reading your dyno chart correctly when I see that it appears as though your lost torque from the new cam profile is replaced by 6k rpm? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Mohawk Posted August 1, 2012 Author Member Contributer Share Posted August 1, 2012 Mello Dude, it was your fork upgrades that gave me the idea ! The fork lowers went off for blasting today & will be anodised after that. I acquired a set of CBR929!calipers & the CBR600 M/C that I have fitted to restore braking with the modified VFR calipers will work perfectly with them :) Naked Viffer, as Veefer800Canuck has stated the Blue is a Standard Honda colour on the 2000 Model 5th Gen. CornerCarver, Yep the torque is 50ft/lbs at 6K/rpm for all runs, then climes with the new cams to a peak of 57ft/lbs. As it stands this 5th Gen makes more power than a standard RC45 with a slipon can (http://force-v4.com/tuning/exhaust.php) everywhere ! with the same peak HP at around 107-108hp, but my engine makes its power sooner & with more torque everywhere. With the weight loss I've managed, its also lighter than a 45 http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/public/style_emoticons/#EMO_DIR#/tour.gif The new brakes will finish the handling as its the only area its lacking. The Carbon wheels are considered to be worth 10hp on acceleration due to the reduced inertia ! I'm looking at the dyno charts & trying to work out if its the intake or exhaust restricting the peak RPM power, I'll look at a larger airbox with larger filter next & possibly an 825cc Big Bore !!!! in the winter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted August 2, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted August 2, 2012 That's cool Mohawk, lemme know if you would have any questions, but from what I can tell, you got it handled. -- Looking at your bike again, --- just wow and wow, again. - BST wheels, I'm sooo envious... -- I had been wondering what a simple cam change and tuning would do, something to think about. It would be an easy job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Mohawk Posted October 30, 2012 Author Member Contributer Share Posted October 30, 2012 Custom Cush Drive complete :) http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/72914-custom-cush-drive-for-vfr800-vfr400-axle/#entry860020 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer vfrAustin Posted October 30, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted October 30, 2012 Great job and pics! I have had the front signal blank out plate in my head for a while. Hard to tell what method you used to fab the plate. Can you give some background and maybe a couple close ups? Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Phantom Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 The Frankenviffer movement is well and truly underway That's some great work. I've known that cams were on the to-do list for the modders for years now, an Australian cam specialist (Ivan Tighe) got some nice gains on VFRs way back in the 1st/2nd Gen versions... the fact that the 5th Gen heads are virtually RC45 heads meant that the possibilities were endless... I like your COP approach, have you had any issues since fitting them up? It's been the subject of endless debate here. I spend less time here than I used to (three young children, and other interests) but I'm loving the fact that each time I stick my head back in there is something new in the VFR mod arena! and I think we're still barely scratching the surface as far as what is possible with this bike. It's the Manx Norton of the modern era Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Phantom Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 Whoops, entirely forgot to mention the electric waterpump. I am fitting a Davies Craig EWP80 to mine with the digital controller - I take it that the compatibility problem is due to your having gone with an EBP? The EWP seems to me to be a better choice, but then again I have been researching this mod for the best part of ten years... ever since member vfroem did an electric waterpump mod to his 3rd Gen VFR750. I think he went with a Mercedes pump as the Davies Craig pumps were either not conceived at that point, or were not known about. The EWP is made of nylon and because it's made to last, it's really no lighter than the standard pump, but as with yours it removes the crank-driven drive system which has to be a good thing, and because the controller will run it you can indeed ditch the thermostat, and on shut-down the controller will make the pump run on and eliminate hotspots as the motor cools.I am also placing mine higher than the standard pump, to eliminate the steel pipe around the stator housing that the VFR750 motor has, and replacing as much of the steel and alloy components with nylon as possible. Still very much a work in progress so no pics yet.I also discovered that a particular Ford 302 Windsor welch plug is a perfect fit to plug the waterpump hole (just the right interference fit, and install with a bit of Araldite), I have the plug measurements somewhere Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Mohawk Posted November 3, 2012 Author Member Contributer Share Posted November 3, 2012 Great job and pics! I have had the front signal blank out plate in my head for a while. Hard to tell what method you used to fab the plate. Can you give some background and maybe a couple close ups? Thanks in advance. Thanks for the kind comments, they are appreciated. For the blanks I bought a crashed panel off ebay in the same blue colour & picked a couple of very the best flat ish parts with the curve in the right direction for the cutout. I used cardboard to make a template & after a few goes had a good fitting template, then drew around that on the fairing panel & cut the parts out, then trimmed to fit. I fitted them by by making some hangers on the inside that gave clearance for a cable tie these were like an __/--- shaped piece of metal, where the bottom was glued to the infill & the clear part was used to loop the cable tie around. I then used a piece of thin alloy pipe to bridge the gap across the insid eof the hole & clamped the cable ties to it. I will plastic glue the panels in place this winter as I'm happy I won't be going back to standard :) Pics what I have more time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFR4Lee Posted November 3, 2012 Share Posted November 3, 2012 Cool wheels. Too bad the probably cost as much as a stock bike of the vintage is worth, all by themselves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer CornerCarver Posted November 5, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted November 5, 2012 Cool wheels. Too bad the probably cost as much as a stock bike of the vintage is worth, all by themselves. Why is that too bad? I am looking at some OZ wheels for my Ducati rear conversion and ZX14 front conversion. I know most guys like to pop for loud exhaust or chrome bar ends but the performance gain from lighter wheels is there on braking, on acceleration and is real world performance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFR4Lee Posted November 6, 2012 Share Posted November 6, 2012 It's too bad they're so danged expensive. Hard to justify the expense, especially on an older bike. I realize they can be taken off and sold separately when the time comes, but... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer vfrAustin Posted November 6, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted November 6, 2012 Great job and pics! I have had the front signal blank out plate in my head for a while. Hard to tell what method you used to fab the plate. Can you give some background and maybe a couple close ups? Thanks in advance. Thanks for the kind comments, they are appreciated. For the blanks I bought a crashed panel off ebay in the same blue colour & picked a couple of very the best flat ish parts with the curve in the right direction for the cutout. I used cardboard to make a template & after a few goes had a good fitting template, then drew around that on the fairing panel & cut the parts out, then trimmed to fit. I fitted them by by making some hangers on the inside that gave clearance for a cable tie these were like an __/--- shaped piece of metal, where the bottom was glued to the infill & the clear part was used to loop the cable tie around. I then used a piece of thin alloy pipe to bridge the gap across the insid eof the hole & clamped the cable ties to it. I will plastic glue the panels in place this winter as I'm happy I won't be going back to standard :) Pics what I have more time. No problem. I jumped right in and did the mod. Thanks for the inspiration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer HighSideNZ Posted June 22, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted June 22, 2015 Looking at going down this track with the single nut conversion myself. Will keep you posted as far as it goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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