SEBSPEED Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 The wheel clears, but what about with a tire on it? The rubber is wider than the wheel. What is your plan for centering the wheel? Centered to the arm? The arm is not on center of the bike, or is it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer YoshiHNS Posted July 10, 2012 Author Member Contributer Share Posted July 10, 2012 The wheel clears, but what about with a tire on it? The rubber is wider than the wheel. What is your plan for centering the wheel? Centered to the arm? The arm is not on center of the bike, or is it? The tire should clear. With the normal 4th gen wheel I can just get my finger between the swingarm and the tire. With just the wheel, I can get more than that. Not very scientific. I brought home the calipers to take measurements to see how close the wheel originally is to the swingarm. I'm going to center the wheel by adding a plate to where the wheel mounts. I'll add rings to extend the length of the step on the spindle that fits in the counterbore on the wheel. The difference is only 0.05", so it's barely anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 Ooh, marchesini 10Y wheel. Noice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer YoshiHNS Posted July 10, 2012 Author Member Contributer Share Posted July 10, 2012 Ooh, marchesini 10Y wheel. Noice. From this thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer YoshiHNS Posted July 10, 2012 Author Member Contributer Share Posted July 10, 2012 Thanks to Matt for pointing out a major up in my math. Here's my revised math for how far I need to offset the wheel, which is actually 0.132" to the new math. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer YoshiHNS Posted July 26, 2012 Author Member Contributer Share Posted July 26, 2012 Just to show that this thread isn't dead just yet. Between starting a new job and rebuilding the engine in my car, other things have been pushed aside until they are done. But still have something new to show. The rear brake is going to be a bit of a mess. I have a 675 rear caliper that came along with the 675 Sato rearsets I bought. First off, NO, they are not a direct bolt on. Close, but no cigar. So I have a 675 caliper with a ST spindle and rotor. 675 rotor diameter is 220mm vs 255 for the ST. So I'm going to have to have a custom rotor to have the same mounting as the original ST rotor with the diameter of the 675. Still have to check if it will fit. My engineering department happened to have some 0.071" titanium on hand to cut the sprocket spacers I needed. Also, not many people carry a steel 520 sprocket that will work on this conversion. 2.5 month backorder on them, unless I buy the aluminum one. And after working with the engineering department some more, it was decided to go a different route with the wheel spacer. Originally, I was going to have a 0.125" plate with cutouts for the drive pins, and then washers to extend the step on the pins. But since the pins are only 0.4" long before the taper, we are going to make a plate that will go between the original mounting surface and the drive pins. Two problems. The pins are either press fit or shrink fit, and the material for the bolts that hold them is pretty soft. I'm going to have to take the spindle to work and press out one of the pins to get the diameter needed for the spacer and probably find new bolts with a longer thread. Here's a 2D of what the plate might look like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metallican525 Posted July 26, 2012 Share Posted July 26, 2012 You lucky bastages with machine shops and all the toys!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer YoshiHNS Posted July 27, 2012 Author Member Contributer Share Posted July 27, 2012 You lucky bastages with machine shops and all the toys!!!!!!!!! Don't get too jealous. Usual working hours are 6:30-6, Mon-Sat. Nice to have the toys, but you don't really have a lot of time either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metallican525 Posted July 27, 2012 Share Posted July 27, 2012 You lucky bastages with machine shops and all the toys!!!!!!!!! Don't get too jealous. Usual working hours are 6:30-6, Mon-Sat. Nice to have the toys, but you don't really have a lot of time either. Oooof, those are rough hours I admit. Hopefully you enjoy your job tho and it's not such a grind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrmatt Posted November 1, 2012 Share Posted November 1, 2012 Very nice, those 10 spoke rims are getting more abundant on ebay (I've been watching... :)). Any updates? keep up the good work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer YoshiHNS Posted November 2, 2012 Author Member Contributer Share Posted November 2, 2012 Guess I have an update from a while ago. Started to take the drive pins off the spindle so I could do the measurements and put the spacer block behind it. A bit of torching to break the lok-tite on the screws to get those off. But the pins are pressed in, and they are really pressed in well. At the time I tried it, our big 80 ton press was set up for a high qty production job, and our big arbor press was jammed from someone not locking the shaft in and it falling down. Only had the small arbor press which isn't bolted down, and the press was lifting off the table before the thing gave a sign of budging. So that's where I left it. Right now, this is taking what time I have between work (new job since 3 months ago, so no working on project between machine cycles), errands, and other unforseen events. Going through this thing with a fine toothed comb. By the end of it it'll be better than original, except for the paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JZH Posted November 3, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted November 3, 2012 Dude, that thing ain't gonna fit in a VFR! Ciao, 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NakedViffer Posted November 3, 2012 Share Posted November 3, 2012 I'd love to hear more about what you're doing to the 6g72. I'm a DSM guy at heart, but I still got love for the 3si cars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer YoshiHNS Posted November 3, 2012 Author Member Contributer Share Posted November 3, 2012 It's out of my '93 3000GT. Not the turbo model. Just a major rebuild. Bought it for $1k with a blown motor. PO never changed the timing belt and it snapped and destroyed the head. So another grand or so later, and I have completely rebuild heads with new valves (cams didn't get damaged), timing belt, water pump, gaskets, so on. Went another 70k on the motor, and my transmission had an issue. The nut on the 5th gear can back off, making it impossible to get in and out of 5th gear and no reverse. So it was a fun couple of days driving around with no reverse. Found that a 5th gear out of a different mitsubishi (think a lancer) fits this transmission. So instead of just cracking open the access panel and tightening that nut, I sent it off to get completely cleaned and rebuild with new syncros and all and the taller 5th gear. Had a leak in the clutch so I have a new clutch master and am running a SS line direct from the master to the slave instead of the 4 dozen intermediate connections there are. Rebuild brake master and soon to rebuild and powdercoat the calipers and some engine bits. Aluminum main pulley since the rubber in the original was severely rotted and ready to tear apart. New exhaust Cat to replace the leaking erroded one on there. Maybe new dampers and shocks all around. Going through the frame and making sure there isn't any rust rotting the frame away (so far haven't). Basically tore it down to the block, checked everything, cleaned everything, polished all the machined surfaces, all new high quality gaskets (screw graphite gaskets), new parts per service requirements, and a clean engine back with a new tranny. Right now I'm ready to put the last few bits on the side blocked by the engine stand and the tranny and drop it in. Too much getting in the way. The thing that always makes me happy is that the bore on the cylinders is still FANTASTIC. Still has the original hash marks with no scoring or damage anywhere. So hopefully by the end of it I'll have a car rebuit heads up with better than OEM parts, new tranny, slightly more power, no oil drip, 33mpg average that still will be better at the mpg/performance ratio than anything that I can buy today, and still only cost me $4000 total. Now I Just have to figure out how to fit some nice Jag or Porsche heated leather seats in there. It's at 170k right now, should get another 120k out of it easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer YoshiHNS Posted September 19, 2013 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 19, 2013 Over a year without an update. Well, not much of an update, but here are some parts so you don't think I've completely abandoned this. One more part to make. Think third week in October is my next free weekend. So hopefully I will have them finished by then. Already started making those parts a month ago, just need to finish. Also, here are some pictures comparing an 848 spindle to the Triumph spindle. You can see the triumph spindle (RIGHT) is way too long on the wheel side of things, but the Ducati is too different on the sprocket side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Phantom Posted September 20, 2013 Share Posted September 20, 2013 Over a year without an update. Well, you're still making more progress on this than I have with mine I just noticed that you were looking at running a 675 rear caliper... have you checked that there's physically enough room inside the rear wheel? I have an R1 rear caliper (wanted to match the front ones with the fancy buttons) but it just won't fit. You seem to be looking at a smaller diameter rotor, which means you might get away with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer sa1713 Posted September 20, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted September 20, 2013 The rear caliper clearance issue is what stopped me from going further on with the Triumph eccentric swap. My parts all went to MR.Matt for his conversion. It seems that the 3 pot Honda caliper is a bit to long for the space and I did not want to re-plumb my brake system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer CornerCarver Posted September 20, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted September 20, 2013 I am planning an 848 rear rotor and caliper to go with the 848 rear wheel.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer YoshiHNS Posted September 22, 2013 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 22, 2013 I am planning an 848 rear rotor and caliper to go with the 848 rear wheel.... That would probably be the smarter sounding thing to do. Have I checked that the 675 fits? No. I got it essentially for free with the Sato rearsets I bought for $100. I think that I will have to make a new brake caliper mount that has the same dimensions as the Triumph at the axle, and then whatever I need at the caliper end. Maybe I'll be able to get away with just machining some of the existing mount. The caliper mount is a part of how everything fits together on the axle, so we will see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Phantom Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 It's remarkable how many different ways tthis swap can be done. Even an MV Agusta hub assembly could be used, although you'd have to switch from an 848 rim to a 1098 rim due to the axle diameter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer CornerCarver Posted January 15, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted January 15, 2014 Yoshi, do you need a confirmed second for axle conversion to get the machine shop off of dead center on any work that remains? Shot me a pm if so and I will post some money to your account for the conversion parts. I have to do this in the next month while I am back on the ZX14 fork conversion... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer YoshiHNS Posted January 15, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted January 15, 2014 No. I just need to figure out a time when I can get into the shop and the machine is open. My last many visits to the shop have been actual work stuff and not personal project fun. I have a ducati axle to measure things up to, and the triumph axle to machine. Have to remember where I have the ducati nut and cone to check everything to. It's just a time issue. I might be able to sneak in something really early Saturday morning, but no idea what machines are going to be open or how long it will take to dig up the tooling. I think I figured a way to do the drive pins in one shot, but until I try there's no way to know. And I haven't seriously looked at how to hold the axle for machining. I'll call the one shop and see if they can do the drive pins that I asked them to do before November sometime soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer YoshiHNS Posted January 15, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted January 15, 2014 Just thought about it. Do my 4th gen numbers line up with the 5th gen stuff? Are the eccentrics the same OD even? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer CornerCarver Posted January 16, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted January 16, 2014 I don't know, I am in Toronto for a couple of days. Would it help if I sent a 5G eccentric/hub or a 5G swingarm? Or do I need to get a Triumph donor axle for machining? I already have a 848 axle/wheel...waiting to source additional parts like the cone and nut until I know what I need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer sa1713 Posted January 16, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted January 16, 2014 Just thought about it. Do my 4th gen numbers line up with the 5th gen stuff? Are the eccentrics the same OD even? Nope! I did the measurements which led my project going to MRMATT. The 5th gen's eccentric is larger than 3rd/4th, which for what I was doing with the Triumph bits, did not swap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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