Member Contributer apexandy Posted July 19, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted July 19, 2013 I ran COP's with my radiator fan intact. With the radiator off the bike, I basically rotated the fan upwards pivoting on the top right bolt (of the 3 on the back of the fan) and made extending mounting tabs with chunks of aluminum and rivets to reattach the fan. I also cut off the upper fan "block off plate" and made a new one out of sheet aluminum to cover the portion of the fan that sticks above the radiator. It was a very tight fit but the radiator still used the bottom mounting bar off the engine although my top mounts were slightly different (but I don't think they put the radiator in too much of a different position from stock). I had to put the coils in before swinging the radiator back into place... but it did work. I am now happily running on my stock coils that I managed to hide quite well... although still puzzled as to why I got 700km of good riding with the COP's and then had issues. Even if the coils I have are the issue why would they just start failing? And the other thing that confuses me a bit is why my charging system was only reading 13.2V at idle with the COP's but reads 14.3V with the stock coils at idle. Anyway, I hope you guys have better luck than me. They did look all tucked away and modern when I had them in... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted July 19, 2013 Author Share Posted July 19, 2013 I plan to put my forks in full lock either direction, then move the rad up as far as possible without interfering with the steering lock. USD's really cut down on steering travel! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NakedViffer Posted July 19, 2013 Share Posted July 19, 2013 You should raise your tail instead and get a little length back. I'm running modified 2005 1000RR forks. I would, but its already topped out.. LOL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted July 19, 2013 Author Share Posted July 19, 2013 Flipped eccentric and riser? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer apexandy Posted July 19, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted July 19, 2013 I plan to put my forks in full lock either direction, then move the rad up as far as possible without interfering with the steering lock. USD's really cut down on steering travel! Very true... My forks almost touch the frame and it's still a little tricky to do u-turns. But in general riding, after getting used to it, it's not so bad actually. My front end is quite low (954 forks with forks flush with top of rc51 triple) but I have no clearance issues to report. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted July 19, 2013 Author Share Posted July 19, 2013 Like I said... My forks are pretty short... 929/954 comes in around 724mm, 1KRR comes in closer to 694mm before I began mods. That's over an inch shorter! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kgsmotorcycles Posted July 19, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted July 19, 2013 I was looking at pushing the top of the radiator out an inch or so, just pivoting it forward. I know I will have to notch the inner cowl to accomodate this, but that shouldn't be an issue. It should also be a fairly straight-forward mod, just fab up some new top mounts, and that's it, in theory anyway... Why not keep the standard coils if you still have the standard fairings if it means more farkeling? The weight saving is only about 1/2kg max for the new COPs and you have plenty of space to hide them still... I plan to put my forks in full lock either direction, then move the rad up as far as possible without interfering with the steering lock. USD's really cut down on steering travel! Have you not trimmed the plastic rad cover in the relevant places for more lock? Like I said... My forks are pretty short... 929/954 comes in around 724mm, 1KRR comes in closer to 694mm before I began mods. That's over an inch shorter! So about a 10mm rise, if the maths worked out linear on the rear shock, should work out about right keeping your forks flush with yokes? Yes the turn circle is pants with these upside downs, but manageable with practice. Too much rise on the rear and the shock spring hits the swing arm. The benchmark on all these mods is the standard VFR itself, if only tuned 7mm up on forks etc to suit. Very good at both low and high speeds. I still suggest in all my miles testing so far, the best forks are right way round as they offer more flex and feedback. Like the 98/99 fireblade forks used on my 3rd gen. Can really attack entry to and exits from corners with them, TT quality high speed stability in bucket loads! I did run an EMC replacement VFR shock which worked very well, with especially good feedback. But im still testing on my 4th gen with the upside downs. Things are definitely getting better than when i started... gradually. The rear shock prob wants a new spring and valving to suit i suggest. Or even a dedicated vfr upgraded shock, unlike the untuned spaced 929 ohlins i get by OK with now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted July 20, 2013 Author Share Posted July 20, 2013 I have done some extensive modifications on both ends of the bike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kgsmotorcycles Posted July 20, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted July 20, 2013 I have done some extensive modifications on both ends of the bike. And what results did you get from the modifications or experiments.. what failures? Are there any definitive improvements over any other mod? Whats the feedback like on the road and track compared to standard set up in your tests? Any dyno tests with the COPs anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted July 20, 2013 Author Share Posted July 20, 2013 I have done some extensive modifications on both ends of the bike. And what results did you get from the modifications or experiments.. what failures? Are there any definitive improvements over any other mod? Whats the feedback like on the road and track compared to standard set up in your tests? Any dyno tests with the COPs anyone? Unfortunately I can't answer any of those questions as I have yet to ride it, and I have only a small amount of time riding a stock 4th gen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kgsmotorcycles Posted July 20, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted July 20, 2013 I feel i must add for anyone else happy and skilled to modify their bike that, I would NOT recommend any modifications over a standard Honda VFR! The VFR is the best bike in the world as it stands.. have you not read the news? Some mods do give very different handling characteristics than one would expect as normal without some set up knowledge and experience. Exactly what, after sitting on a vfr for well over 300,000miles, i have been looking for. Apart from road directions, memorized from a map or experience, what else do you think i was thinking of cruising all those miles? Even i had some weird moments with running wide out of corners onto the wrong side of the road at pace! What first adding upside down forks did for me until i tuned the setup to bring things into predictable ride ability. Nothing that was dangerous or caused accidents thankfully. But also not my first vfr/blade mod! Luckily i have been testing on the local, closed circuit race track and then TT race course second time round as bike was still insured and taxed. Good predictable road surfaces with lots of space and fairly quiet... never pushed things unless 100% comfortable. Which is why i dont push on the track 100% yet. Im about 75-80% at the moment ere with this latest upside down mod. I cant yet push 100% coming out of bends or going into them yet. Have only just got to grips with high speed chatter. Unlike my last 3rd gen build which was hit it all i dare and she will pay me back with feedback, grip and fun even using less track oriented rubber at any speeds. Maxed out 140+ for long stretches was comfy! Real feedback is avaliable when things work well. Which is what i got from my first right way round fireblade front end and rear replacement sport vfr shock. But that was not as simple as it sounds in reality. Easy for me now yes. But a few hoops to jump through first am afraid, especially for the uninitiated reading our mod forums. (yer right ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted July 20, 2013 Author Share Posted July 20, 2013 I can't wait to post my build thread... but I made a promise that I would finish the bike before I showed it this time. I built this one starting with just a bare motor! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted July 20, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted July 20, 2013 Hmmmm bare pictures.... Can't wait!!!!! ;-) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kgsmotorcycles Posted July 24, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted July 24, 2013 All the while i am scraping my knees round almost every other bend i gotta say yes the COPs are working just fine after another mega track day on Sunday! So is the wrong 929 rear shock even with wrong spring and valving.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer YoshiHNS Posted July 24, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted July 24, 2013 Some days it seems like you are living the motorcycle dream. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kgsmotorcycles Posted September 16, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted September 16, 2013 Think i may have sussed out why my COPs run rough after a run on occasions... Have noticed one come loose a little and needs pushing back home to get full power back.... A simple fitting issue i think. Have tried removing the lower rubber on the cop to see if they are too long and popping off under load?.. but no proper results yet. Need to look into a way of keeping them fitted more secure to the plugs.. Once on, they run very well.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted September 17, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted September 17, 2013 Think i may have sussed out why my COPs run rough after a run on occasions... Have noticed one come loose a little and needs pushing back home to get full power back.... A simple fitting issue i think. Have tried removing the lower rubber on the cop to see if they are too long and popping off under load?.. but no proper results yet. Need to look into a way of keeping them fitted more secure to the plugs.. Once on, they run very well.. you just need a metal holder..something like this.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted September 21, 2013 Author Share Posted September 21, 2013 Can anyone think of a reason why I couldn't run COPs on the rear cylinders, and oem in front? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted September 22, 2013 Author Share Posted September 22, 2013 I'm thinking it should be fine? Mix & match, that is. Run the old coils up front to avoid fan issues and cops on the rear head to save space on my project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer apexandy Posted September 22, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted September 22, 2013 I believe rangerscott did that on his 5th Gen to test things out? I think it worked fine for him. Im too lazy to read through the thread again... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
douglasthecook Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 I have all the parts/pieces to install the coils, And I am back from my deployment. I just need to know which prong on the coil is the ground, and which is the hot wire, as I want to get the wiring right for the new harness that I am making. From what I have seen so far, it appears that the right prong on the coil is the ground wire, can anyone confirm this? I have the 2 prong coils btw. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rush2112 Posted February 18, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted February 18, 2014 I have all the parts/pieces to install the coils, And I am back from my deployment. I just need to know which prong on the coil is the ground, and which is the hot wire, as I want to get the wiring right for the new harness that I am making. From what I have seen so far, it appears that the right prong on the coil is the ground wire, can anyone confirm this? I have the 2 prong coils btw. Thanks! I believe it is the right but I can't confirm right now... I'm 1000 miles from home in a hotel and I can't make out in my pics if the colored wire is left and black ground is right... also, I'm not an electrical expert, but I'm not sure it matters on the 2 connector coils. Found a picture of the CBR 1000 coil wire harness on eBay and the black w/ white stripe (ground) is on the right if the plastic clip is up, so the right prong on the COP should be the ground Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
douglasthecook Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 Cool, thanks!!! That's what I'll go with as well. I was also just guessing that since they weren't marked with a positive or begative terminal that maybe it didn't matter, but again, that was just a guess on my part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 I used the factory colour coding on the Honda COP subharness that I bought as a reference. Just matched that to the VFR's connectors. http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/67684-5th-gen-coil-on-plug-setup/?p=895361 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
douglasthecook Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 I didn 't buy the subharness. In retrospect, that was probably a mistake. I do have the required parts to make my own subharness though. I can't tell from your pics, as they get to blurry when I enlarge them, but can you confirm that the black wire is the on the roght prong of the coul? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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