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4th gen Coil on Plug mod (split thread)


SEBSPEED

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I have some at home, but they will also require me to move the radiator. They are the shorter GSX-R coils, vs. the Hayabusa coils, which are longer. All I was going to do was move the radiator forward if it didn't interfere with suspension clearance. Make new mount brackets for the top, notch the inner fairing to compensate for the new position, and it should work from preliminary measurements.

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I think I have the shorter GSXR coils and after moving the fan up (basically pivoting the fan on the top right bolt) and making a new upper block off plate with thin aluminum sheet (for the part of the fan that sticks above the rad) I was able to get the coils to barely fit. Although I had also made new smaller mounting brackets for the top of the rad but I was able to use the same lower left mounting bar off the engine. It is possible to keep the fan!

One thing I have noticed after switching back to my stock coils is that my charging system is showing 14.2v at idle, but was only showing 13.8v at idle with the COP's. Not sure what this means really... just an observation. I really wish these had worked out, does anyone know how I can test the GSXR coils to see if they are the problem? I would like to have better information to help others who are considering this mod.

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Did you check the coil resistance for all 4 sticks? Maybe when they are getting hot the resistance is rising?

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Not sure heat is the issue as I suggest the engine runs better hot and on the boil.

I also notice a rough idle and feel a need to maybe jet carbs? Needs doing anyway.

But means dyno runs also really and if I even put fuel in bike, I get a war from the misses.

Maybe am way off, but would the timing want looking at if a more positive spark comes quicker to the mix?

The measured voltage difference might be of interest. A full test from standard lead battery to lithium might have come in handy.

The bike will still pull away from a standard 600 on command so the coils don't seem to affect riding at pace.

Also thought the lack of fuel pump Might cause isues, But proved here pump or not, is no difference. There is certainly no lack of fuel up top end, plenty of power on offer there.

So I'm back to where I was when I was a courier many moons ago covering 10000s of miles.

Ride bike hard until i brake it. Which is really hard to do on my Vfrs as they just keep on going, until r/r melts anyway.

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A good ride on the weekend....

Still had a rough bottom end.. but not an issue when on the go...

Bike was running very well indeed.

Best handling outing so far as i dropped forks from 19 to 15mm showing above top yoke. Stabilized the high speed running no end. The lack of weight was obvious pulling the front up out of tight bends and clearly having power to hit passed bikes down the straight. Enough to get moved up a group after first session to get some competition..

When i got home i checked bike over only to see the RR was showing signs of meltdown on one of the stator 3 yellow wires.. hmm. Caught just in time i hope before more mishap?

But more notable i saw one of the COPS had come loose a little..

I released the bottom boot on the COP and reconnected it to give a more positive connection. Might be the problem?

I thought maybe it is a tad too long and does not sit well enough, maybe only by a few mm, maybe the rubber boot pushes the good connection loose a touch?...As when i fired her up, the bottom end roughness was gone! Tick over fine....hmm...

After i find a fresh RR connector and rewire i will test some more...

Tried to get an order in for a vfrness from our fellow member tightwad, but with my new specs i have had no reply yet... :mellow:

Maybe the postage is a bit high or my demands are a bit confusing as i would like to change the lengths of the standard 4thgen vfrness to suit my build....

Need to sort something asap as the Manx GP/Classic TT is coming up soon and i really need to be out on the bike by next month.....

With a lack of crimp tools and connectors right now i am struggling to make my own just yet.

Cop definitely working passed tick over.

post-5025-0-35061800-1373668215.jpg

179kg wet with side stand still on.

post-5025-0-85330500-1373668033.jpg

Ready for the off.

post-5025-0-75760500-1373668313.jpg

Coming back in. Bike is without question becoming competitive now :beer:

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Sweet. So you raised the front end for a little more stability?

What did you do with the radiator hose between radiator and water pump?

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With a front end from a 929/954 blade i raised the forks 19mm thru the yokes to speed up the steering that was running silly wide on corners when the forks were level with the top yoke.

Must add my eccentric is also flipped.

So on the last test i reduced the 19mm to 14mm as my high speed stability was quite disruptive and shakey. Thankfully the test showed a small reduction has helped a lot and calmed the shakes at high speed. Altho the steering is not quite as sharp now on the tight bends, with a touch more effort the steering all round performs smoother.

The rad hose was easy enough to join the electric water pump after i chopped a little from one end.

At first i chopped from both ends, but the fit was no good. Thankfully i had a spare hose to try again, then

recovered in steel braid. Also removed the metal water pipe from engine block and trimmed a little to fit other side of rubber hose for pump.

With no price $$ from fellow member tightwad, i have ordered a new RR connector and will try to build a new vfrness chopping out unmelted connectors and use of wire supplies from local auto electric dealer... i hope to crimp and will solder at home, if i can.. just hope i can use the old RR as the current one was not old at all.

Edited by kgsmotorcycles
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www.daviescraig.com.au/Electric_Water_Pumps-content.aspx

I picked up the 15 liters per minute version.

Altho i bought it from Demon Tweeks, a local importer here in UK...

Dont bother with the controller.. just leave pump on when ignition comes on.

So long as the bike is moving and rad is then cooling the water, everything cools well.

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What are the advantages of removing the fan? Won't that cause your bike to run a little warmer? I'm not doubting you, but I'm also very curious, as the fan removal would solve clearance issues with the coil on plugs for the front cylinder bank. I was just going to re-position my fan forward an inch or so, depending on the necessary clearance for suspension travel.

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The fan is about 2 kilo and no the bike does not run hotter because of its removal.

It is only used when the temp gets over hot, usually when engine is running and bike is static.

So never used 99% of the time. I watch my water expansion bottle to see if things are going to boil over also.

If static i turn engine off anyway.

So long as the bike is moving, cooling is not an issue, even on a hot day on a track at full pelt.

A reposition would work also i presume, but i was working with a theory - less is more, if am removing the standard coils, running a race battery, running mag wheels etc etc, then the fan was fair game.

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I can understand the removal of the fan in your case. I have been many places where I needed it, and am leery of removing it. I have shed about 22 kilos with my tail section swap, and exhaust swap. I suppose that there is more to be gained, but I also want to keep a good balance with the weight distrobution. I have been considering a lithium battery as well. I also wouldn't mind swapping out the glass headlight lenses to lexan, but am having difficulties with a suitable replacement, and maintaining the stock look of the headlights.


Also, what did you do for the wrap around panel at the base of your tank, I like it, and am split on the one I came up with on mine.

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22 kg is a start i guess. I am on about 60kg at the moment. Its an 84kg rear, 94kg front weight spread.

The headlight idea i have seen done before on Ducati headlights, forming plastic with the original unit as a template and some heat. A lot of work for little gain i suggest on our old Hondas. But if done well looks factory.

Best concentrate on reducing rotating weight first for ride results. But it is 'doable'....

Lexan is just a brand name for polycarbonate. This i found out a few month ago buying the plastic for my clear clutch cover job.

Using a drill and a cheap ebay replacement clutch cover for £18. Then ordered 2 clear plastic discs cut to shape from a supplier on ebay also for £16.

When i find time to finish the clutch cover i will use RTV super silicone to glue the disc in place.. hey presto... one clear clutch cover with no welding or bolts.. I will then cut my original and use the other disc so will have a spare.

The tank side panels are carbon from a ducati air box cover. Shaped along the top edge and cut to fit close to the honda tank, held on with one screw and Velcro along the top edge. Works well compared to previous attempts.

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For my tank panel, I took a black plastic garden bin, and cut it to the shape that I needed it to be, from a cardboard template that I made. It works, but I'm definitely not 100% satisfied with it, and am still looking for solutions. If you have pics of how you did yours, I'd really appreaciate the insight. When I was stationed in Germany, I did a number of track days on my VFR, and that's one reason behind the weight loss attempt. I still want to try the coil conversion, as I have the coils, and the electrical connectors, but have not been able to swap them out yet.

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I'm right there with you, Seb. The aesthetics of my naked bike do not cope well with 4 individual remote coils. Then again, I don't want to compromise reliability either, so I wait for someone to come up with something solid too.

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my only real concern is positioning the radiator properly. I want to retain the fan, and I have very short forks. So I need to push the rad as far up & back as I can which will only add to COP interference.

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I know exactly what you are talking about, I've been working on repositioning my radiator as well because my forks are dropped so far my radiator wore a hole through my fender from contact on hard braking. I know, I'm an idiot for letting it happen, I almost didn't want to tell anyone.. But hey, shit happens. I was more concerned with testing how much faster I could get around tight bends. I'm just gonna bob the backside of the fender and round it off again, its a ratty old thing anyway. I'll get it nice one of these days though.

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I was looking at pushing the top of the radiator out an inch or so, just pivoting it forward. I know I will have to notch the inner cowl to accomodate this, but that shouldn't be an issue. It should also be a fairly straight-forward mod, just fab up some new top mounts, and that's it, in theory anyway...

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