Brakes - Rear

[HispanicSlammer]

Changing Rear Brake Pads

Simple but you will get your hands dirty, no need to remove the caliper it is done without having to take the caliper off.

Begin by removing the padpin!

Remove the Pad Pin using a Hex Key, mine was stuck I had to get leverage.

Reach in and pull out the old pads

the inside pad must be removed by pulling out then up above the brake linkage arm (It is in the way) as seen in this pic.

I had a bit of pad left but they were worn more on the stop side then on the piston side. (the bike does not have opposing pistons they have a metal stop on the other side of the caliper so the pads do not wear evenly on each side, make sure to check BOTH Pads when inspecting because of this circumstance)

See the uneven wear, the top pad is slightly thicker

See the new one compared

Once the old pads are removed push the caliper in and out to loosen the springs and then to compress the pistons, take off the cap to check the fluid level, this might make the level overflow be wary of fluid level, the rear resivoir is under the seat.

My pistons were stuck so I had to get serious, this does not harm the finish one side on the bolt the other on the caliper housing, then gently screw it in till the pistons are receded all the way! If you dont push the pistons back the new pads wont go in!

Measure the disk for thickness should be no less than 0.20 inches in thickness, if it is less replace it, the pads will not engage completely and the disk will be suseptable to heat warpage if its too thin. (As you can see mine was .229 inches.)

When installing the new pads the inner pad must be brought down over the linkage again since it is in the way, this can be a little tricky and requires a steady hand. There is a retaining spring that the pads lock into and they must be pushed down into position in order to line up with the Padpin. reinstall the padpin and tighten, then reinstall the cap. Pump the brakes untill there is feedback pressure. Check for stopping power and see if the pistons settle into place and do not bind! Do not forget to put the fluid cap back on.

Total time 20 minutes.

This operations requires that the rear wheel be removed, which might require moving the exhaust pipe out of the way as well depending on what brand you are using and how it is mounted.

[vic28222]

I am about to replace my rear pads. Any recommendations on pads? OEM, EBC HH Sintered, Galfer, others? I would like to get a little more bite on the rear than I get with OEM pads but I do not want to alter it enough to cause a problem nor do I want to put in pads that damage rotors.

I am seriously considering going with EBC HH Sintered. Please let me know if that is a good or poor choice.

Thanks,

Vic

[Veefer800Canuck]

Got the EBC HH on my bike in the rear, working great. Can't go wrong.

I used to have them on the front with my previous set of rotors, and they also worked fine there, but I bought a set of new Galfer Superbike rotors, and of course, Galfer recommends their own HH pads, so I got those instead up front.

[The mailman]

20 MINUTES AS ADVERTISED! I just checked in here for a quick refresher prior to swapping out my rear pads on my '07. I had done my pads on my last VFR but it had been a while so I turned to you guys for a mental wake-up. From removing the first lug nut to tighening up the last one....20 minutes. The only thing different on my 6th gen is that I had to remove one additional bolt to let the caliper pivot downward just a hair to remove/replace the left side pad. A few pumps of the brake to settle the pistons in properly and then I made about five stops up and down our cul-de-sac and all was well. Man, I LOVE THIS ABS!!! You can just grab a whole hand full of lever and stand on the rear lever and you best be hanging on because this bike stops right NOW! I would have never attempted a stop like that on my non ABS VFR. Obviously road conditions and mid corner braking still require more moderation but stright line braking is very impressive. (I used EBC HH pads)

THANK YOU VFRD!!!!

[Switchblade]

I think a pad rotation thread is needed. It seems that may left front pads are always more worn then the other two sets. Anyway's just a thought.

[spud786]

^{Yeah, I usually get 40,000 miles out of right front set(non linked), but the left side and the rear, much less(they are linked), usually about 20,000 miles on the rears and about 30,000 on the left fronts.}