95 Frozen Axle

[Guest BallsDeepinCO]

I am a newcomer to this forum and as with most newcomers I begin with a problem. I own a 95 VFR which is currently in pieces in my basement pending reassembly. I am attempting to remove the rear axle and bearing holder in order to regrease bearings and machine the rotor, however the splines seem to be frozen in the bearing holder or sprocket mount. When I removed the axle nut I used a 24" breaker bar and around 250 ft-lb which is way more than what should be expected considering the 141 ft-lb torque req. Upon removal I noted some corrosion on the axle but nothing significant. I am now stuck with the rest of the assembly. The flange collar is still in place and it seems like it should just slide out but I have resorted to trying to remove it with the sprocket mount. I have tried a gear puller, blunt force and the setup shown in the pic to remove the sprocket mount with no movement on the shaft. My next step would be to try a machine shop and have it hydraulically pressed since I will be removing the swingarm anyways. Suggestions would be greatly appreciated. And note that the bar started out flat.

[Dutchy]

Help will be on the way, know that a few member here had a bit of a fight as well. Have you tried the search function here already?

and yes, welcome to VFRD from across the pond

[Guest]

PB Blaster and heat???? Is the spline behind a seal?

[V4 Rosso]

Welcome to VFRD

Here you'll find how I eventually managed to get the axle out. As Dutchy mentions, it was a bit of a fight. The old grease had become like tar and is very sticky. I used a heat gun to heat the axle a bit hoping it would make the old grease become a bit more liquid. I did not have much trouble removing the sprocket carrier, it was removing the axle from the bearings that proved to be the real pita. As you intend to remove the swingarm, letting the shop have a go at it with a hydraulic press sounds like the easiest way to get it out.

[Veefer800Canuck]

Once you eventually get it apart, I recommend a new rear rotor as opposed to machining, they are very thin and not much material there.

[Lee 2002]

Nice job with the help, Rosso.

[Guest]

Thanks Rosso I had read your post before and saw you had quite a fight as well. I have tried heat with the gun but have a fear of overheating. It might just be worth saving the headache and taking it to a shop however my goal is to not have to replace a swingarm and if it did come to that I would rather destroy it then have it be at the hands of someone else. The new rotor sounds like a good idea I had noticed some rubbing with the pads at a certain point on it so it might even be bent, obviously havent had the chance to find out for sure.

[Veefer800Canuck]

The new rotor sounds like a good idea I had noticed some rubbing with the pads at a certain point on it so it might even be bent, obviously havent had the chance to find out for sure.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l2736&_nkw=vfr+rear+rotor

[VFR Capt.Bob]

I've replaced both front rotors on mine but the rear doesn't seem to see as much wear even with the linked braking. I'd do like others said. Clean it up by hand. Good luck with the rebuild. VFR's are well worth the effort to keep them tip top or modify. Mines pushing 82,000 miles and running better than new. Putting a new clutch and exhaust gaskets in mine now. Never getting rid of the VFR.

[Guest]

Finally got the B off. Had to take it to the dealership, no shops around here would risk doing it without destroying the parts. I am glad I did though because they got it out clean with no damage. Appears to be the usual buildup on the splines that was holding the whole thing together. Thanks for the support to all who replied.

[Veefer800Canuck]

YAY!