Guest Posted June 12, 2012 Share Posted June 12, 2012 Here it is folks the finished product 1984 VF1000F!!! wow, what an adventure building these 2 bikes. I still have a few issues to figure out. One leaking fork seal, a small oil leak from the shift shaft(probably a seal there), a small exhaust leak and the clutch is slipping a little bit too, so I may need to replace the clutch plates soon. But other then that, I am road worthy. I will give an assessment of how she rides after I run her some and get better pictures too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Kel Posted June 13, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted June 13, 2012 :fing02: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted June 13, 2012 Share Posted June 13, 2012 That rear end looks extra perky, I like it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 16, 2012 Share Posted June 16, 2012 A couple more VF1000F pictures. So far runs awesome! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer vfrcapn Posted June 17, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted June 17, 2012 I like that lower fairing, bike looks great. Still want one of these in my garage one day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer unbalanced Posted June 17, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted June 17, 2012 I'll second that... Very nice Lance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 getting close on the 86, hooked up the exhaust, handlebar controls, clutch, brakes, had new tires mounted, chain, most of the electrical is hooked up. Seems I am missing one headlight bracket. I probably have it somewhere, but spent enough time digging through boxes today. Now I am really at a standstill untill I get the carbs, but I think I will have her on the road soon as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 30, 2012 Share Posted June 30, 2012 Update on the 2 bikes.... The 84F I replaced the clutch discs yesterday, restored a lot of power and performance! The job was pretty easy to do. There are a series of 9 clutch plates and 8 discs. That castle nut that holds it all together, I just used a hammer and chisle to get it off. No one had anything close to the socket tool. Came apart easy, Other bikes I've done had a funky #1 disc to start with, this one does not they are all the same. You want to make sure to soak new discs in fresh oil over night. Start with a disc and then a plate and alternate them. One side of the plate has a sharper edge to it. You want to make sure the sharp edge is facing outward. There is a lock washer that needs to be the right side out too. says outside on it. I also rigged the cooling fans to the switch on the pannel. This way I can turn them on right away instead of waiting untill it gets super hot. I still have to change out the right fork as it has a leaking seal. Then I should be able to get her to pass inspection. I like the way this bike runs. For me is comfortable to ride has lots of torque and good shift response. It sort of handles like a road cruser though. The brakes are definately not crotch rocket like. This bike is a major head turned and people are drooling over it everywhere I've gone so far. Cant wait to get the 86 on the road. The 86R... I got a good set of carbs for her and some original painted body parts too. I should have her running in the next couple of weeks. Hold please! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VF1000RS Posted July 2, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted July 2, 2012 Hammer and chisel ouch! If you need to do the clutch on the R let me know. I have the socket for the clutch nut. You can borrow it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 11, 2012 Share Posted July 11, 2012 Hammer and chisel ouch! If you need to do the clutch on the R let me know. I have the socket for the clutch nut. You can borrow it. I just might take you up on that! (hammer and chisle did the job though) When in doubt, throw a hammer at it! The way my dad taught me. Haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 11, 2012 Share Posted July 11, 2012 I really like your project! You did a great job there. I was wondering is it also possible to fit a VFR750 engine in a VF750F frame? How much work would that be? Thanks in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 I really like your project! You did a great job there. I was wondering is it also possible to fit a VFR750 engine in a VF750F frame? How much work would that be? Thanks in advance! Not sure about the 750R into the 750 F frame. On the 1000 the R will fit The F frame, but is a hair wider. The R has extra engine mounts on the front heads to the frame, however on the 1000, the F subframe has a cross bar to make up for the extra engine mount, in my opinion making the front enine mounts unnessesary. Maybe is the same on the 750s? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 need some advise! Kind of at a stand still. I have the carbs and airbox installed on the VF1000R, she's ready to kick over, pushed the start button and....starter not cranking. Tested the starter relay on another bike, is good. tested the switch on another bike, is good. tested 2 starters, both good. Not sure wher to go next? If I have the high beams on, I get a click in a headlight relay when i push the start button. A short maybe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer vfrcapn Posted August 18, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted August 18, 2012 need some advise! Kind of at a stand still. I have the carbs and airbox installed on the VF1000R, she's ready to kick over, pushed the start button and....starter not cranking. Tested the starter relay on another bike, is good. tested the switch on another bike, is good. tested 2 starters, both good. Not sure wher to go next? If I have the high beams on, I get a click in a headlight relay when i push the start button. A short maybe? Just spitballing, but does the motor turn over by hand easily with the plugs pulled? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GazVF500 Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 Can you hear the starter relay clicking when you push the button on your bike? Do you have the neutral light connected at the gearbox? Have you tried it with the clutch lever pulled in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielGallagher Posted June 18, 2015 Share Posted June 18, 2015 Apart from slightly different engine mounts, are there any other difficulties/differences with installing a r engine into an f frame? will the r engine cope with the radiator on the f? would also have to change the cdi right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhubarb Posted June 18, 2015 Share Posted June 18, 2015 Hooray for vintage cached pages So.... you want a little more power.... Here is a write up explaining the installation of VF1000R motor into VF750FD (Interceptor) chassis. Read this through, then decide if you want to be a part of this madness. Before we get to the fun part, I've got to state the following. 1) You need to consider local laws for getting the modified bike on the road. I have no idea of what system of roadworthiness is used in the United States, but please check this out BEFORE you start. Please comply to local laws. 2) This is a drastic modification, and while I have found it a very reliable conversion, the larger motor obviously places greater stresses on the chassis. In a recent teardown I found a crack in the frame on the chain side, horizontal member joining to frame rail. I don't know if this was due to the extra power or from suspension loads. It was easily fixed. Bike has had a hard life. In 12 years of ownership it has been written off 3 times (don't ask). Please be aware of this fact - the chassis was never intended for use with this motor. 3) I'm compiling this information as accurately as possible, based on a vehicle imported to Australia. There may be differences in some components in your particular country. This is a record of my experience, and is supplied as is. Whilst I have attempted to be as accurate and honest as possible, I cannot be held liable for any damage or loss incurred from another's actions based in any way on application of the data contained herein. OVERVIEW OK. Now I can tell you that this conversion gives you the massive torque and sledgehammer power of the VF1000R motor whilst shedding approx. 44 pounds off the weight of a complete1000R. Add to this no more cam chain hassles due to gear driven cams, and the sweet handling of the interceptor chassis. The resultant bike is quick. My bike has seen 140mph with stock 750 gearing. The installation of this motor is surprisingly easy. It literally bolts straight in. I have discovered that there are many shared components and dimensions between members of the VF family. There are however, areas where the engine interfaces with the chassis where some modification is required. Here is a list of these areas and what needs changing. Exhaust System 1000R headers/collector required. However, as is, the1000R mufflers will not fit 750 hanger mount points. Suggested handling: Get exhaust shop to cut off existing connecting pipe from muffler and make up and fit 2 x simple pipes welded to fit either aftermarket or 1000R mufflers. Mine cost $20. See diagram. Radiators 750 Top and Bottom Radiators used. Top Radiator: No mods necessary. Bottom radiator: To clear the larger header pipes, the bracket holding the bottom radiator to horizontal frame rail needs to spaced 25mm forward. See Diagram. Due to this forward location, bellypan cannot be used as it would hit front wheel. I have designed a replacement protective shroud, that can be made for peanuts. See diagram. Coolant Pipes. Push-on coolant pipes coming off heads between the V of the motor needs to be simply reversed, so that pipes exit on clutch side of motor and connect to existing 750 thermostat housing. All 750 water pipes, radiators and hoses should be used as before. Bottom radiator hose is a slightly tight fit between frame rail and motor, no biggie. Centrestand Bye, bye. 1000R has no centrestand due to bulbous exhaust collector. Now 750 shares this PIA. Gearshift 1000R single piece shift lever must be used. It is slightly closer to footpeg than 750's original. I live with it, you may wish chop and weld gearshift lever. Fuel Pump Either 1000R or 750 can be used. 1000R has a sturdier metal body versus plastic body of 750, the 750's is already mounted and works just fine. Battery You need to think about a bigger battery. 750's original will work, but extra strain is placed on it. Be prepared for it to shit itself eventually. I removed all the "padding" from inside the battery box, and got a bigger battery - unfortunately ID code on this battery has been obliterated. It begins "CB...." I used duct tape in the areas where new battery would rub. It will just fit. Airbox Use 750's as 1000R's doesn't fit within frame rails. Because 750 airbox has slightly less volume, remove induction "horns" off front for better breathing (I also drilled two 20mm holes as well). Carbies Entire 1000R carb assembly including metal airbox base fits straight on to 750's plastic airbox . Ignitor units Either 750, 1000R or 1000F. 1000R has higher threshold for ignition cutout: (13000rpm) Final drive sprocket Use either. 1000R gearing allows higher top speed, 750 gearing allows wheelies any time, anywhere. Suggested plan of Attack. 1) Get the donor motor complete with exhaust collector and suitable mufflers. 2) Get a VF750 Interceptor - preferably with a blown motor - you're only going to get rid of motor anyway! 3) If you have never removed a motor, get some help from someone who has. Use Honda's excellent factory manual for the 750, and if you get your hands on one, the 1000R manual (not totally mandatory, but does contain useful maintenance data.) 4) Follow the steps in the manual for engine removal. I would add my own experiential data, in that it is far easier to remove the frame from around the motor, than drop out the motor. To this end, I follow the book as far as all the crap you need to disconnect, then I remove the exhaust collector, then remove the entire front end of the bike (forks and front wheel). With a stand under the motor and the removeable frame rail removed, jiggle and lift the bike frame OFF the motor and wheel chassis AWAY on back wheel. You will probably need someone's assistance for this. Now stick the new 1000R motor securely on the same stand, and reverse the procedure. you will find that she slips right on in! Follow notes as above, and basically, you're ready for an awesome experience. There one last thing I need to mention. The rear cam cover was a tight fit between frame rails on the 750, but could be removed. Same thing now. You would swear you couldn't get it off with the clearance in evidence, and it will come off in either 30 seconds if you're lucky or half an hour if you're not - but it WILL come off! This is a first draft of the written up proceedure. If you need any further advice, corrections or have any comments to add, please don't hesitate to email me either on sabmag or at tcdesign@talent.com.au Best of luck. Remember - there's no replacement for displacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VF1000RS Posted June 27, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted June 27, 2015 Hi there rhubarb. I think you used a VF1000RE engine in your project if I'm not mistaken. I recall rereading about your bike several times over the years. Loved it. Our problem here in the US is we got the VF1000RF and VF1000RG in 1985 and 1986 only so they have the wider heads. That may preclude the R in the 750 frame but not the 1984 VF1000FE that we also got here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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