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electrical meltage


BerT6801

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OH? I was under the impression that it should charge even at a idle.. Am I wrong?... but still the low ohm reading worries me.

Go oem if you want to be in spec numbers wise, the OEM are the Best even though they will fail too, still last longer and less weird chit than aftermarket.

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OH? I was under the impression that it should charge even at a idle.. Am I wrong?... but still the low ohm reading worries me.

Go oem if you want to be in spec numbers wise, the OEM are the Best even though they will fail too, still last longer and less weird chit than aftermarket.

Where are you getting your "will last longer" facts from? Nothing I have seen shows that a correctly made aftermarket unit won't compare to an OEM part...think about it...both are brand new (not talking rewinds here). Aftermarket R/Rs often last longer than their OEM counterparts.

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OH? I was under the impression that it should charge even at a idle.. Am I wrong?... but still the low ohm reading worries me.

You should get some charge at idle, but it isn't much and depends on the RPM you idle at. My bike idles at about 1300 I think, so it charges well. Other bikes I have had idled at 800 and they discharged at idle as the RPMs were too low...the charge output is linear to the RPM.

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  • 4 weeks later...
post-19884-0-83637000-1317266925_thumb.j'94 VFR750 . Now I will admit I dont know much about stators and such, but I did the ole "pull the negative" while its running and it immediately dies
>>>>>>> A VFR or any modern motorcycle is not like your dad's old Plymouth, and disconnecting either + or - while the engine is running is a no-no and can quickly destroy a R/R. The most common cause for stator failure is within the melted connector cuz if any 2 wires there contact each other due to the discombobulation, that blows the stator then and there.
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