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Lower Triple Clamps - pros/cons


Vee-Ef-Ar

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How about taking an end mill of an appropriate size, say 12.7mm, popping it in an everyday drill press and cutting straight down into precisely measured locations in the gull-arm's angled surface (which would be suitably anchored to the drill press). If I cut just enough to allow a circular spacer of appropriate length to sit perfectly vertically, secured with a socket cap screw threaded directly into the triple clamp, it should work great, right? cool.gif (I hope so, because I added a 1/2" HSS end mill to my last McMaster-Carr order...)

Ciao,

Be careful trying to use a drill press as an end mill. The spindle is not stiff enough and will probably bend, causing life long wobbles from that point on. Been there, done that.

*Depending on the drill press*, he should be fine. I have done some light milling with my drill press, even something very similar to what was mentioned. Be sure that the work piece is clamped 110%, and also ALL axis of the press. Change the speed on the press to suit the material. Use WD40 for lubrication. Use cutters that have 4 flutes at minimum, more is better wit ha small uptick in speed and a very slow & steady hand you can obtain nice results with no chatter.

A spot weld drill may do the same job for less money, but I have yet to try that. I have used 1/8", 1/2", and 5/8" cutters in my Rigid floor pedestal press to mill and shape various materials and small aluminum parts.

Milling with a regular drill press will accelerate wear on the shaft and bearings, and it's also dangerous. I don't recommend doing this unless you have a background in working with some sort of machining equipment as the potential for getting seriously hurt is high.

d74ce74d.jpg

Thanks, Seb, for sharing your experience! I will be extra careful...

Ciao,

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Could be my DIY hacker mentality, but the stops don't need to be precision milled, exactly vertical, 100% perfect drilled examples of mechanical perfection. I mean that's awesome if you can do it, but all you need is a point of contact that keeps the bars off the tank. And you won't see it unless you look for it.

Just my thought...

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I went with the Viffer800Canuck method of drilling and tapping holes then using bolts with nuts to lock them against the triple. Drilled perpendicular to the surface to allow the lock nuts to sit flush for more contact.

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I went with the Viffer800Canuck method of drilling and tapping holes then using bolts with nuts to lock them against the triple. Drilled perpendicular to the surface to allow the lock nuts to sit flush for more contact.

One of my stops bent during my crash. Simply removed the bolt and replaced it during the rebuild. Done deal.

As for the bending, I'm not disappointed. It was pretty low on my list of "things to care about" near the time of impact.

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I went with the Viffer800Canuck method of drilling and tapping holes then using bolts with nuts to lock them against the triple. Drilled perpendicular to the surface to allow the lock nuts to sit flush for more contact.

Yeah this sounds like the way I'm gonna go.

Now all I need is a link to go back there.

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Pfft, didnt work in my case. Severely bent back and off to the right.

gallery_554_5200_349931.jpg

I hacked my old frame in half with an angle grinder using a ZipCut disc and tossed it into the metal bin at work, so at least it would get recycled.

But 50 MPH into the side of an Accord will do that to ya!

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Bloody Hondas.

Once the rubber side ain't down, all bets are off no matter what stops you use.

Any special bolts needed for the alloy?

Titanium? I'm thinking interactions and corrosion.

Tap depth?

Have they started using metric up there?

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I used M8 grade 12.9 allen head bolts. Drilled and threaded all the way through the upper triple, then threaded the bolts in with locking nuts to secure, plus some blue locktite.

If I was to do it over Veefer's approach is how I'd probably do it, better than my method.

I made up some aluminum stops:

steering2.jpg

steering-1.jpg

I know they'll be worthless in a crash but they do work as stops to keep the bars from hitting the tank or pinning my thumbs against the tank. If I had to machine them over I'd use steel, one did break and I remade it a little beefier. It's been good for a few years now.

IMG_9247.jpg

IMG_9244.jpg

Looking at the second pic, I don't see why a flat 954 lower wouldn't work just as well as the SP1 lower?

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Looking at the second pic, I don't see why a flat 954 lower wouldn't work just as well as the SP1 lower?

gallery_554_564_43676.jpg

I thought this may be the reason, when using SP forks.

Looks to have "better" adjustability with the gullwing.

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Looking at the second pic, I don't see why a flat 954 lower wouldn't work just as well as the SP1 lower?

I thought this may be the reason, when using SP forks.

Looks to have "better" adjustability with the gullwing.

Yep, good point, missed that.

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This may seem alittle "out there", but does anyone have specs for the 1200 lower?

What's the bet Honda changed everything.

Scratch that... the things flat.

Not much pricer than the SP1 though.

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This is what I did last year, haven´t been here for a long time due to various reasons.

Similar to what JHZ is thinking. Took a bit of fitting, removal and grinding multiplied by 10!! But better to take off small bits of material at a time and get it right the first time. Bolt has been changed to a Grade 12. Drilled right through the lower, didn´t trust just tapping a thread. Solid as a rock and relatively easy, just takes patience.

Steering stops

Steering stops

Steering stops

Cockpit

and here it is all buttoned up

mmmmmmmmmm

mmmmmmmmmm

Hope this helps or ask if not.

oh I did have to trim ever so slightly the fairing inner towards the front because of the pinch bolts on the lower, very minor and could´ve left it but, well, you know..................

oh again, I drilled the hole in the solid alu bar off center so that I had more meat to the headstock side, for grinding etc. I think it was 25mm dia. I may consider getting them welded to the lower one day.

Edited by Bren
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How much did the TiNi coating on the forks run you??

came already done. looks good, I like. Also came with the preload adjusters and the R&G axle sliders. I wouldn´t have bought these myself so it was nice to get them included.

bike looking really good these days, you´ve been busy.

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came already done. looks good, I like. Also came with the preload adjusters and the R&G axle sliders. I wouldn´t have bought these myself so it was nice to get them included.

bike looking really good these days, you´ve been busy.

Thanks. I imagine the coating isn't cheap. I had my forks apart for new seals, would have been a good time to get the coating done, but since I bought another house, that kind of takes precedence over most everything else

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What did you find for clip ons? Get a set of 1200 stockers?

I have a set of 1200 clips kindly donated from fotodadi as he went with aftermarket.

I actually thought they would be the hardest to find, but turns out these SP1 triples are like gold.

Thanks for your input Bren, I guess once you have the stops lined up nicely, you could go ahead and weld them on.

That's definitely an option I would consider.

I have messaged a few other members on their setup, some have done what's listed above, or chose to go without stops.

I have also started looking at switchgear that is compatible with my master cylinders.

I know I am dragging this off topics again... but the Showa stickers for the forks... does anyone know where I can get these?

Looking at pics here at VFRD, they have the Showa name, but also some numbers/letter associated with it.

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