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Lower Triple Clamps - pros/cons


Vee-Ef-Ar

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For some time now I have all but a few items left before I start my Frankenviffer project... one part being the lower triple clamp.

I know within countless topics the options were either the 51, 954 or 929 lower triple could be used, but I never really took note of the differences between them.

So just throwing a question out there about any troubles/differences one can expect from using the above mentioned triples.

With the availability of some quality parts floating around, I thought it was time to get serious and start asking what I may be in for.

I am fairly certain the 954 and 929 triples are the same, so is there much difference between those and the 51?

Which is easier to modify the steering stops for?

Are there other triples which could be considered, that are around the same price point?

At this point I will probably look to buy a 954 triple.

Please feel free to add any other info/links that may be relevant.

Thanks team :fing02:

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I think Sebspeed has a super duper excel chart on that stuff. I got a copy but I cant find it for the moment.

That would be a good place to start.

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Gday MD... start mate? I've almost finished!! :biggrin:

Finished the collection I mean. I have the chart and I know that all the listed triples will fit with the forks.

I was just after the little intricacies of each, as in the steering stops and possibly the pinch bolt placements and stem lengths.

I know there can be some interference with the oil cooler (I think) and just popped the q before I send the cash OS.

I just wondered if one was better/stronger/easier... than the other.

I had alot of this info in my PMs but they went bye bye.

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Gday MD... start mate? I've almost finished!! :biggrin:

Finished the collection I mean. I have the chart and I know that all the listed triples will fit with the forks.

I was just after the little intricacies of each, as in the steering stops and possibly the pinch bolt placements and stem lengths.

I know there can be some interference with the oil cooler (I think) and just popped the q before I send the cash OS.

I just wondered if one was better/stronger/easier... than the other.

I had alot of this info in my PMs but they went bye bye.

I doubt that strength of the part would be an issue. I just went with what seemed to be the consensus easies to swap. The "gullwing" design sounded like the best one, and the steering stops are easily removed and new ones installed. Check out Veefer800Canuck's thread for that. Talking about SP1, of course. Stem length and diameter are compatible, as well. Just needed a shim on the lower bearings to match the height of the VFR bearing stack.

No problem with the oil cooler.

Are the others flat or gull'ed?

Stem diameter is likely identical, as I decided to use the 954 upper with the SP1 lower. I've been told the upper is the same on the 929. I think the gullwing upper looks sexier than the flat one, and it affords more room on top for over-the-clamp clipon's.

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929 and 954 are the flat ones. Seems to me I've read that those are less easy to swap than the gullwing SP1. And of course the SP2 use a larger diameter stem.

Not finding anything right away on why the flat lower is less desirable...

I think it's the 6th gen that has oil cooler mount clearance issues.

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Gday MD... start mate? I've almost finished!! :biggrin:

Finished the collection I mean. I have the chart and I know that all the listed triples will fit with the forks.

I was just after the little intricacies of each, as in the steering stops and possibly the pinch bolt placements and stem lengths.

I know there can be some interference with the oil cooler (I think) and just popped the q before I send the cash OS.

I just wondered if one was better/stronger/easier... than the other.

I had alot of this info in my PMs but they went bye bye.

Oh - ok, very cool :cool: When you get going be sure post up a good photo build thread.

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929 and 954 are the flat ones. Seems to me I've read that those are less easy to swap than the gullwing SP1. And of course the SP2 use a larger diameter stem.

Not finding anything right away on why the flat lower is less desirable...

I think it's the 6th gen that has oil cooler mount clearance issues.

Thanks KP... I didn't even see the gullwing difference on the lowers :fing02:

Going blind, so looks like I am back to RC51 searching again, as I am using the forks.

As for the 954/929 triples being less desirable, maybe it's cause they don't fit the 51 forks properly, or allow a nice adjustment.

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I read the 954/929 flat lower has clearance issues with the frame or other parts so I went with the recommended gullwing SP1 lower on my 5G. I think I also read the RC51 flat upper wouldn't leave enough fork showing for clip-ons, so I went with the suggested gullwing 954 upper. I'll have the forks off this week for new seals and can take pics of the lower clearance issues if needed.

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I read the 954/929 flat lower has clearance issues with the frame or other parts so I went with the recommended gullwing SP1 lower on my 5G. I think I also read the RC51 flat upper wouldn't leave enough fork showing for clip-ons, so I went with the suggested gullwing 954 upper. I'll have the forks off this week for new seals and can take pics of the lower clearance issues if needed.

Thanks mate, any pics before I'm wrenching would be awesome.

Got the upper sorted, but finding an SP1 lower has been a long winded exercise.

Oh and now that you mention the forks, does anyone know where can get good matching Showa stickers from.

I have these knarly huge Racetech things on mine, but all I'm finding is dirtbike stuff.

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I haven't chimed in because, although I've investigated this for years and have gathered two sets of RC51/929 parts to do the swap on two of my bikes... :blush:

...I haven't actually done it.

Anyway, speaking of RC51 lower triples, one thing I've noodled about from time to time is the lock-stop issue. (The cast stops on the RC51 triple are incompatible with the VFR's frame, so people generally grind them off the RC51 triple and make new ones in the correct positions.) I've seen it done a few different ways, but not having access to a machine shop, I'm struggling to figure out an easy way to make new stops. But then I had this idea, see... :idea3:

How about taking an end mill of an appropriate size, say 12.7mm, popping it in an everyday drill press and cutting straight down into precisely measured locations in the gull-arm's angled surface (which would be suitably anchored to the drill press). If I cut just enough to allow a circular spacer of appropriate length to sit perfectly vertically, secured with a socket cap screw threaded directly into the triple clamp, it should work great, right? :cool: (I hope so, because I added a 1/2" HSS end mill to my last McMaster-Carr order...)

Ciao,

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How about taking an end mill of an appropriate size, say 12.7mm, popping it in an everyday drill press and cutting straight down into precisely measured locations in the gull-arm's angled surface (which would be suitably anchored to the drill press). If I cut just enough to allow a circular spacer of appropriate length to sit perfectly vertically, secured with a socket cap screw threaded directly into the triple clamp, it should work great, right? :cool: (I hope so, because I added a 1/2" HSS end mill to my last McMaster-Carr order...)

Ciao,

Be careful trying to use a drill press as an end mill. The spindle is not stiff enough and will probably bend, causing life long wobbles from that point on. Been there, done that.

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Yeah the steering stops are of great concern due to the precise location and fabrication involved.

I think from memory some have used small cam-like stops which can be adjusted to suit and bolted to the triple.

And others have used meaty hex socket head bolts directly into the triple.

I haven't touched on this much as I haven't got the part yet, but I do have concerns about getting it right.

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How about taking an end mill of an appropriate size, say 12.7mm, popping it in an everyday drill press and cutting straight down into precisely measured locations in the gull-arm's angled surface (which would be suitably anchored to the drill press). If I cut just enough to allow a circular spacer of appropriate length to sit perfectly vertically, secured with a socket cap screw threaded directly into the triple clamp, it should work great, right? :cool: (I hope so, because I added a 1/2" HSS end mill to my last McMaster-Carr order...)

Ciao,

Be careful trying to use a drill press as an end mill. The spindle is not stiff enough and will probably bend, causing life long wobbles from that point on. Been there, done that.

*Depending on the drill press*, he should be fine. I have done some light milling with my drill press, even something very similar to what was mentioned. Be sure that the work piece is clamped 110%, and also ALL axis of the press. Change the speed on the press to suit the material. Use WD40 for lubrication. Use cutters that have 4 flutes at minimum, more is better wit ha small uptick in speed and a very slow & steady hand you can obtain nice results with no chatter.

A spot weld drill may do the same job for less money, but I have yet to try that. I have used 1/8", 1/2", and 5/8" cutters in my Rigid floor pedestal press to mill and shape various materials and small aluminum parts.

Milling with a regular drill press will accelerate wear on the shaft and bearings, and it's also dangerous. I don't recommend doing this unless you have a background in working with some sort of machining equipment as the potential for getting seriously hurt is high.

d74ce74d.jpg

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I don't no about the gen5 as haven't bothered looking into it but on a gen6 I wouldn't even bother with steering stops because the radiator hose does that for you more or less as that is what hits at limit of travel & when bike running it is as hard as a rock due to pressure. You can't really use the ignition lock anymore anyway, you can really jam the steering over trying to squash radiator hose to use steering lock but only really works when bike cold. You want to lock your bike carry a rotor lock. Bottom line you crash your bike the same damage will happen with or without steering stops. Gen4 you just drill & tape frame each side of steering stem & use bolt to adjust stop location on the stops already cast into replacement triple (Gen4 you don't remove cast lags on triple).

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I don't no about the gen5 as haven't bothered looking into it but on a gen6 I wouldn't even bother with steering stops because the radiator hose does that for you more or less as that is what hits at limit of travel & when bike running it is as hard as a rock due to pressure. You can't really use the ignition lock anymore anyway, you can really jam the steering over trying to squash radiator hose to use steering lock but only really works when bike cold. You want to lock your bike carry a rotor lock. Bottom line you crash your bike the same damage will happen with or without steering stops. Gen4 you just drill & tape frame each side of steering stem & use bolt to adjust stop location on the stops already cast into replacement triple (Gen4 you don't remove cast lags on triple).

On 5th Gen you can retain the ignition lock by shimming the ignition with a couple washers. You'll probably want to make some steering stops so you don't use the painted gas tank and handlebars as your stops.

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My steering lock is also alined so works on my gen6 but to use it you really are pushing against the radiator hose needing to squash it & with mine I like the bars more forward so that does limit the forward clearance which just misses dash when triple touches radiator hose. It is less of a problem as have hiss fitted to Australian bikes so a little harder to ride away.

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Looks like I'll be shimming it down then.

Thanks

For my situation, having the stops are more important than the lock.

Knew I would stall with the clamp.

How many years you been thinking JZH?

And you have two of them, lol.

So the triples can be machined as is, to reproduce the stops?

Still have to make a nuts/bolt list... inta me for that!

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Yep, stock steering stops get carved off and smoothed over. I went with Canuck's drill and tap approach and made new ones with bolts and a lock nut. They don't even need to be vertical. I actually made them perpendicular to the sloped portion. All that matters is where the contact the frame. Measure multiple times before drilling! I made a cardboard template on the OE stem of where the stops were.

Don't know about the Aussie bikes, or what year is yours, but my '99 has no plastic "collar" around the ignition. it was introduced in the States in '00 on the VFR. The 954 upper triple was designed to have one, but it doesn't quite line up with my ignition. So I left it off, and consequently there's a larger gap around the ignition and two open screw holes.

My SP1 upper does not have the collar, but I don't like flat shape or the off center Honda Wing badge. Compromise either way, but I prefer the CBR top bridge overall. Perhaps the 929 gull wing top bridge doesn't have this plastic collar? (I have no idea)

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My 99 had the Plastic collar and I had to mod it to fit the vortex 929 upper triple. Ground some material off the back to suit the profile of the top bridge and so it would sit flush with the keyhole of the ign switch.

Saves me from looking at those two empty holes as described...

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I have used both the RC51 SP-1 lower and the CBR929/954 lower on my bike with RC51 and CBR929/954 forks. There is no difference in fitment that I could ever see. The CBR lower looks a lot easier to tap for steering stops if you want ~ I just ground mine off and left it like that.

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Some good info to go on here folks, thanks.

I had thought the 51 forks had a bulge where the lower clamps to it, but it doesn't.

My upper came with a plastic ignition shroud also.

Looks easy to cut and fit.

Back to looking for SP1 lowers and those Showa stickers.

Bloody price went up on these new, the other week.

vfrcapn, did you manage to change your seals?

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For some time now I have all but a few items left before I start my Frankenviffer project... one part being the lower triple clamp.

I know within countless topics the options were either the 51, 954 or 929 lower triple could be used, but I never really took note of the differences between them.

So just throwing a question out there about any troubles/differences one can expect from using the above mentioned triples.

With the availability of some quality parts floating around, I thought it was time to get serious and start asking what I may be in for.

I am fairly certain the 954 and 929 triples are the same, so is there much difference between those and the 51?

Which is easier to modify the steering stops for?

Are there other triples which could be considered, that are around the same price point?

At this point I will probably look to buy a 954 triple.

Please feel free to add any other info/links that may be relevant.

Thanks team :fing02:

You really need the high swept peg set up for a severe lean angle or you body is going to be bent too much in the mid section, that will eventually cause you problems health wise.

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Some good info to go on here folks, thanks.

I had thought the 51 forks had a bulge where the lower clamps to it, but it doesn't.

My upper came with a plastic ignition shroud also.

Looks easy to cut and fit.

Back to looking for SP1 lowers and those Showa stickers.

Bloody price went up on these new, the other week.

vfrcapn, did you manage to change your seals?

I just got the bushings today, planning to start tearing it down tonight if I can get the energy. I'll post up up a pic by tomorrow hopefully, have to have this done by Saturday morning for a weekend ride.

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