Jump to content

Product review - Peg Lowering Kit


GP Paul

Recommended Posts

  • Member Contributer

Supplier page shows VFR options, too.

Link to supplier:

http://www.whaccessories.com/FootPegLoweringKit.htm

$190 US, and took 3 months to arrive from Germany through the US supplier. They are well made, and the close-up picture shows they are adjustable for angle because of the interlocking feature of the pieces. The footpad angle is adjustable, too.

The drawback is that they place the foot outboard by an inch which takes some getting used to. Also, the first set sent to me were incorrect (not enough space to install the stock springs), and it took an additional bunch of emails and 3 more months to sort that out, but they did it with no complaints once I detailed the error.

The stock brake and gear levers can be adjusted enough. I had to remove the upper cam at the top of the gear lever rod to get the lever low enough as the rod adjustment wouldn't go far enough.

Overall intstallation including lever adjustment was a half-hour plus re-adjustment after test rides. The pegs themselves take 5 minutes to swap out.

As for function:

These take some stress off of the knees and do reduce fatigue.

Anyways, they aren't for everyone but there are some who might be interested. There are different kits available depending on how much "throw" wanted. These are the 30mm kit. Colours available, too.

post-8780-0-43442200-1311439975_thumb.jp

post-8780-0-97558800-1311440035_thumb.jp

post-8780-0-56212500-1311440069_thumb.jp

post-8780-0-10265100-1311440129_thumb.jp

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Someone from these forums was making a product similar to this. I have been extremely pleased with them and they were simple bolt on items.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

BLS (Larry), a forum member makes peg lowering blocks. They are much less $. Use the factory pegs (which I like), and are extremely well made.

Mine are awesome and I'd post a link if I could but I aint that savvy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

BLS (Larry), a forum member makes peg lowering blocks. They are much less $. Use the factory pegs (which I like), and are extremely well made.

Mine are awesome and I'd post a link if I could but I aint that savvy.

Did a quick edit of one of my photos but they look like this...

post-18346-0-23824600-1311449494_thumb.j

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the review.

I bought the same kit for my '03 954 (actually I bought it for my Y2K VFR but the kits are the same for almost all Hondas) but don't seem to have enough room on the rear brake adjustment rod (can't shorten it enough) to be able to lower the brake pedal on the 954.

I see that you have an '08 1K RR. Did you have a similar issue and, if so, how did you solve it?

Thanks.

Sandy

Supplier page shows VFR options, too.

Link to supplier:

http://www.whaccesso...LoweringKit.htm

$190 US, and took 3 months to arrive from Germany through the US supplier. They are well made, and the close-up picture shows they are adjustable for angle because of the interlocking feature of the pieces. The footpad angle is adjustable, too.

The drawback is that they place the foot outboard by an inch which takes some getting used to. Also, the first set sent to me were incorrect (not enough space to install the stock springs), and it took an additional bunch of emails and 3 more months to sort that out, but they did it with no complaints once I detailed the error.

The stock brake and gear levers can be adjusted enough. I had to remove the upper cam at the top of the gear lever rod to get the lever low enough as the rod adjustment wouldn't go far enough.

Overall intstallation including lever adjustment was a half-hour plus re-adjustment after test rides. The pegs themselves take 5 minutes to swap out.

As for function:

These take some stress off of the knees and do reduce fatigue.

Anyways, they aren't for everyone but there are some who might be interested. There are different kits available depending on how much "throw" wanted. These are the 30mm kit. Colours available, too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Would removing the rear brake master cyl and cutting the rod shorter help? Or not?

That's what I did to mine, I've been looking for some pic's of it being done, but haven't found it yet.

Worked fine for me with room to spare.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

BLS (Larry), a forum member makes peg lowering blocks. They are much less $. Use the factory pegs (which I like), and are extremely well made.

Mine are awesome and I'd post a link if I could but I aint that savvy.

Did a quick edit of one of my photos but they look like this...

You have lowering blocks AND peg feelers?! You are a brave man.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

BLS (Larry), a forum member makes peg lowering blocks. They are much less $. Use the factory pegs (which I like), and are extremely well made.

Mine are awesome and I'd post a link if I could but I aint that savvy.

Did a quick edit of one of my photos but they look like this...

You have lowering blocks AND peg feelers?! You are a brave man.

I starteed a topic on this awhile back. I keep them on there because I can't lean the bike worth a crap yet. So crawling before I start walking. Those help me learn my limits. Once I get good enough to lean at little angles and such with proper form and head angles then I will venture out farther, and in this case remove the feelers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Infidel, whenever you get around to removing the peg feelers, I replaced mine with metric allen head bolts, which I cut shorter so that they screw all the way into the footpegs and bottom right out. That way, there is no exposed bolt shank sticking out. I put some blue locktite on them to keep 'em put!

Works great with the lowering blocks. :cheerleader:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Infidel, whenever you get around to removing the peg feelers, I replaced mine with metric allen head bolts, which I cut shorter so that they screw all the way into the footpegs and bottom right out. That way, there is no exposed bolt shank sticking out. I put some blue locktite on them to keep 'em put!

Works great with the lowering blocks. :cheerleader:

Thank ya sir!! :fing02:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Response to question about brake pedal -

I adjusted as far as it would go, which is OK at best. The real thing to get used to is that the footpad is 1+ inches wider, so I have to kinda reach in for the pedal. I find that I tend to rest my instep on the upper portion of the peg just before brake use. Not helpful in a panic, I guess, but fine if I'm prepared; it's become habit now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy.