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Do-It-Yourself chain rivet tool


2FAST4U

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  • Member Contributer

That is a great MacGyver for sure. I did pretty much the same thing with a ball bearing and a pair of vise grips and have been doing it that way through 3 chains. Being the rivet cover is a press fit, you do not have to flare the rivet much to keep it on.

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  • 1 year later...

Excelent idea I was about to pay for having my chain changed just because i didn't had the tools to do it myself, one question, how tight you have to press on the river? Just trial and error until it looks ok?

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  • Member Contributer

how tight you have to press on the river? Just trial and error until it looks ok?

You press on the rivet until the diameter of the staked area is 5.50mm-5.95mm (manual gives 5.50-5.80 for DID and 5.50 to 5.95 for RK chains).

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I like ingenious ideas as much as the next guy and as an emergency fix it's a good idea, but why not get the right tool for the job? Would you buy a crescent wrench when you actually need a flange wrench? Sometimes the best tool for the job is the tool designed for the job. These tools are not overly expensive and are something you'll use again.

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Because sometimes the "right" tool for the job is nothing more then a over priced, alluring tool for the job.

Yes, there are some tools that you just cannot substitute with anything else, but this isn't one of them. Especially considering one of the biggest gripes I always hear concerning master link riveter tools, is just how easily they break.

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Very important to have the ability to measure rivet dimeter here as well. I second on overpriced tools. I've used a punch and drift...I'm good at it, wouldn't recommend it for most...this is even easier.

Once every year or two is when I change changes, at most...

If I put chains on multiple bikes or for my job is buy the tool, but not for once every couple years plus or minus...

Matt

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I believe that most of the times the master link tools break is because they are used to try and "break" the chain, and most are under engineered to do that. That's what I've noticed anyway. It would be very tough to break a master link tool by swaging the master link pin over. Like I've heard over the years: "There's never enough money to do it right, but there's always enough money to do it over." :beer:

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I believe that most of the times the master link tools break is because they are used to try and "break" the chain, and most are under engineered to do that. That's what I've noticed anyway. It would be very tough to break a master link tool by swaging the master link pin over. Like I've heard over the years: "There's never enough money to do it right, but there's always enough money to do it over." :beer:

That's what I hear too. But if it was the right tool for the job in the first place, why is it breaking while trying to use it for what it was made for? :goofy:

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Mostly they break because, from what I understand, people are trying to break the chain before grinding the rivet heads smooth. A high quality chain breaker will easily run nearly $70 by itself, so you're paying about that for a chain breaker/rivet tool. It just isn't strong enough to break a chain that isn't prepped. Sometimes it just of irks me that some will pay good money for useless bling, but balk at paying for decent tools. Just kind of a pet peeve of mine. :offtopic:

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The nice thing is that you can go to yard sales and flea markets and pick up old c-clamps made in the USA for under 5.00.

Bolt cutters are the best chain breakers.

Edited by Guest
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ok guys, i just went shopping and found a flaring tool set for around 16 usdollars, i already had a few c-clamps laying around, are you interested on seeing some pictures for those who may like to go this way instead of buying the specific/expensive tool?

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Great find but I am in Mexico and this part is not going to be delivered as fast as i need it plus the shipping would make it expensive, ill order one for the next time but this time I will have to use my home made tool

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Mostly they break because, from what I understand, people are trying to break the chain before grinding the rivet heads smooth. A high quality chain breaker will easily run nearly $70 by itself, so you're paying about that for a chain breaker/rivet tool. It just isn't strong enough to break a chain that isn't prepped. Sometimes it just of irks me that some will pay good money for useless bling, but balk at paying for decent tools. Just kind of a pet peeve of mine. :offtopic:

yes once you get to a 530 chain and higher, they will break most chain breakers, grinding the rivet heads totall flush you can usually pop off side plate with a large screwdriver. I dont own a chain breaker, not a must have tool, however a rivet punch is desirable, Im tired of using a anvil and ball peen hammer.

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yes once you get to a 530 chain and higher, they will break most chain breakers, grinding the rivet heads totall flush you can usually pop off side plate with a large screwdriver. I dont own a chain breaker, not a must have tool,

I have a chain tool and allways grind the rivet head flush before using the breaker pin of the tool. What's nice about the DID tool isthat it puts the side plate at exactly the right position, not putting too much pressure on the X-rings so they last long and keep the grease inside and dirt outside the chain.
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Why didn't I think of that???

What a great idea.

I agree that some jobs require proper tools, but jobs like this one can certainly be done in any number of ways with the same results.

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  • 2 months later...

I didn't get the guides or shims, with my new chain... the ones that stop you from overpressing the faceplate on and binding the link up... anyone know the thickness of these guides so I can fab some homemade ones up...???

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